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Olav

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About Olav

  • Birthday 03/01/1966

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  • Aircraft
    FlySynthesis Storch HS
  • Location
    Denmark
  • Country
    Denmark

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  1. To Dafydd Llewellyn. What kind of stick on insulating material did you use? Just came to the same conclusion about insulating/protecting the oil sump from cold air flow, and then found your comment. Winter in Denmark. Until now I have been choking the air inlet to the oil cooler by a big sponge. Easy to ground adjust before flight, but still primitive and not very accurate control. I did try instead to tape up my oil cooler, but the oil was too cold. Now I have installed an oil thermostat and tested with no air flow restriction - but the oil is too cold. So I have concluded that the oil sump surface alone is cooling the oil too much, so the sump must be insulated or protected against the cold air flow. This way I can secure only the oil cooler will do the oil cooling job and only when the thermostat opens at around 85 deg. C. Regards Olav.
  2. Not sure what you mean here. My plane has got a proper air filter like on any car. However sending the by-pass gas with water vapor back into the inlet - like on most cars - probably could increase the risk of carburetor icing. Also the hot gas with no oxygen content would reduce the power from the engine, and possible the content of oil might be a problem on the inlet valves if not separated properly in a kind of filter.
  3. Thanks Nev. I agree that of course any condensed water should not be led back and accumulated in the oil, so to make sure that does not happen the Jabiru way is the bullet proof way. The combustion of 1 liter of gasoline produces approx 1 liter of water and there is also - depending on humidity approx 0,1-0,2 liter of water in the air taken in, but most of all water will leave via the exhaust. Only a proportinal part of the water will go with the by-pass into the crankcase and must be evacuated via the breather system. My oil separator bottle is located just behind the cylinders on the right side of the engine. The breather hose is only 15 cm long. The hose and the separator will have at least the temperature of the oil so the water vapour will not condens here. Vapour and exhaust gases will escape out as they should. Only the oil is retained and led back via the dip stick tube The oil going out with the by-pass is not in the form of vapour but a mist of tiny oil drops created in the crank case and carried by the by-pass gas flow out through the breather. When enterring the separator the flow velocity drops and the oil mist can settle, while the by-pass gas and water vapour will proceed out the went hose at the bottom of the cowling. Olav.
  4. Hello. I cannot see why the oil "spray" coming out with the by-pass gas, should be more contaminated than the oil that stays inside the engine. All the oil inside the engine will be contaminated evenly by the by-pass gas. Look at the Rotax 912 engines. They have got dry sump and a combined oil tank and oil/gas separator. The by-pass gas is blowing the oil from the dry sump to the tank, where the oil and gas is separated. (Blowing the oil with the by-pass gas should really contaminated the oil if the contamination theory were true). The separated oil goes with the rest of the oil back to the oil pump and is being fed to the engine. The now oil free gas goes out through the outlet at the top of the tank and out through a hose. Rotax 912 has got double oil volume and double hours between oil change compared to Jabiru, so basically same amount of oil per hour. What I know the oil consumption might be sligthly lower on the Rotax 912 compared to Jabiru 2200. My Storch HS with Jabiru 2200 has got a special oil separator that will lead the separated oil back to the dip stick tube and into the engine. The separator was made by the Flysynthesis factory and it works very well. I am sure it is better to secure the oil stays in the engine during long distance flights, and then maybe change the oil a bit more often.
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