jetboy

from the back page of KY97A Pilots guide: "turning the units on while holding the transfer button down will bring the unit on Active Entry and load 120.00 MHz as the active frequency. This will aid the pilot in blind tuning the radio in case of display failure" might work together with a handheld as plan B The panel mount Icom radios might also be slide in rack compatible, I can't remember.

MT410 :When you open it up you'll find 1/ its hard to slide the casing open without triggering the unit on and 2/ the CR123 cells are tab welded together Regular cells can be connected with wires but best to select cells that aren't stainless steel end caps the first set I got were Panasonic Photopower from Element14 and they soldered fairly easily but last yr when these were no longer shipping I got a set from PB tech as all the Jaycar and others had unsuitable datasheets. I measure each cell voltage before and after the soldering, pretinned caps and wires, hot and quick. Either leave one set connected at all times or connect a power supply while cells are removed. There are stories of the ID codes being wiped if the power is not continuous and I dont know how to check this, I do however verify the test spectrum on an analyser before and after Original cells I have from 2005 still test same voltage as 2012 ones, I use them in less critical devices

So back the truck up a bit here.... You fitted a Gen4 engine, from all appearances the gen4 went back to carbon spark plug leads, like gen1. Around gen2 and 3 they were using inductive (spiral wound) core leads which are much better at suppressing ignition noise. Gen4 also has completely different ignition coil packs, and what about the regulator, is that new too? If you only fitted a replacement radio, then I guess its only to do with the radio. Secondly you say some pins were in the wrong places, so exactly where were they and where are they now? Everybody would like to help but we can't work out what is connected. When you can't hear anyone, is the mute set open or is it being shut due to noise? If you open it manually, can you hear them? If others can't hear you, 9 out of 10 times it will be the mic gain setting too high for the level your headset mic is providing, and if set up without engine running this needs to be done yelling into the mic, as that is the level the radio will see in flight, typically. Radio is a black art, a hangar mate once had his plane fitted with a new radio, a good one, keeping the Microair as com2. But sitting in the hangar bck home, the new set was noisy as hell, so he got the radio guy to drive up (2hrs) and change antennas over and stuff and it was still bad. It got remarkably better when I switched the hangar lights off. They were fluros with the Thorn electronic ballasts. PS. the same can happen with cheap LEDs and USB outlet sockets. Best of luck, take your time.

Long time back I picked up a pamphlet at Oshkosh from Comm Innovations, they have a catalogue online here https://www.comm-innovations.com/catalogs/finish/1-comm-innovations-catalogs-pdf/47-comm-catalog-2023/0.html Page 39 on shows the many plugs and sockets, I dont know what DC uses the extra sleeve on the mic plug for. Telephone exchanges used to use these commercial grade plugs.

Had my 2200 for18 yrs used the Ryco Z386 filters untill a batch sold to be by Supercheap NZ was recalled in Australia - but no recall of the NZ supplied ones but I returned them for a refund and went with the Repco equivalent for a couple of rounds then back to the new Ryco from another country. This seems to be the 4th version of Ryco the originals had made in South Africa on the box later it became Philipines and / or Indonesia and it may be now China. All of them get cut open after use and inspected and the internals differ somewhat the size of the inlet holes and thickness of that plate and the construction of the centre support tube all differ, so far every one I had used a steel spring and bypass valve assembly. Photos of new engines on their website showed they have switched to Joywell brand so in theory thats an option I'll stick with Ryco unless the internals look out of spec. My notes from newsgroups suggest equivalent Mahle OC534 these are spec'd for Daihatsu and Toyotas incl. RAV-4 so the OEM parts for these models could be used, check the country of manufacture. Specs are L 74mm Dia 65mm thread 3/4 x 16 UNF Bypass valve 8~11 psi, with anti-drain back valve. I previously sourced a Subaru OEM Japan made filter on my Honda Z turbo as the Honda ones are no longer made there, rather pay the extra when the filter is important.

firstly, last time I read the mtce manuals the "top" is not required at exactly 1000 hrs, It is a guideline and they expect the top to have been done once before the 2000 hr mandatory overhaul interval. So if all is well you should be able to run a couple of hundred hours further, particularly if any valves or rings work has already been done. Secondly, I dont recall any of the "top" items requiring splitting the cases, I assumed you can change the conrod bearings etc without doing total overhaul - check the manuals though as I dont need to look at this myself for another 600 hrs

replaced rings on my 2200 @ 500 hrs because I had a spare set and leakdowns were becoming poor - engine had blowby but otherwise running fine. one ring was broken and another stuck, the pinch points mid span of the open slot under the oil control ring assembly if memory serves. dont remember which side of the skirt this was but I had difficulty getting a new ring to fit it was tight in the land in that area saw no rust or gunge to clean out and followed Jabiru instructions with an old ring to help clean out the lands there was no sign of burring over it seems to me the lands had narrowed in this area due to heat and shrinkage around the unsupported thermally isolated slotted portion of the piston crown. #1680 from 2003 the pistons may be the original version - using Avgas dont know if current pistons use slotted skirt or have holes so is this stuck ring thing only for the older engines? Ralph

OK if they are starting over and not supporting the earlier product....does anybody have the service info available? I keep notes on all the units I've repaired but wont touch anymore

be sure you buy the DB pins that work with your chosen crimper, the type you pictured doesnt operate with many of the crimp pins. For a one - off job, soldering might be better.

A couple of considerations... I thought the Rotax props rotate the other way, if so then the engine mount could not be adapted because the whole engine at the rear mounting has to move across and at a different angle - not really a problem just a bit more $. On the + side with any geared engine you get to turn a bigger prop because it can run lower rpm and gain efficiency, this is a performance increase without going CS - which could yield additional increase. The 2 jab in NZ I think are running as microlight class and doing well.

its actually 6 lb-ft since they changed the attatchment to include 48 belleville washers https://jabiru.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/JPM3L01-4.pdf

wearing out of oil pressure senders on the jab has been going on for 2 decades - the fix is to shift the sender to the correct location i.e. after the external oil cooler and the oil filter. yes the pressure reading will be lower but it is the gallery pressure not the pressure spikes straight out of the pump and before the restrictions of the external cooler and hoses that is the more important reading. I fitted a switch to the original port wired to the idiot light for backup indication, when the original sender packed it in - pic attached.

Regarding engine stiffness after running, which I still have a measureable amount of, for earlier engines this was caused by design of the cylinder base flange and is corrwected by AVDAL SR050 attached below. My 2200 was built 2003, has the slotted piston crown and seems to stick the rings in the portion of their lands at midspan of the open slot areas below. A common cause of compression loss and valve damage can be head overheat leading to valveseats loosening and falling out then of course the valve gets jammed or hammered back Synopsis of an Engine Failure.pdf 2200a burnt pistons.pdf AVDALSR050-1.pdf

You'd use a more powerful battery than Rotax specify for the aircraft loads rather than the engine, so its not overkill. If stuck in the boondocks and leaving the master on you will probably appreciate the bigger battery anyway. I've used a Genesis 925 (commercial grade version of Odyssey, same specs there is also a Fullriver line the major difference is yellow black or red casing) There is someting odd about the PC680 specs where the PC625 are better despite being smaller, presumably cheaper. These are good products but really the same chemistry as the SSB and I found that replacing the 925 with a drop - in equivalent commercial standby battery cut the price to a quarter of the USA product and its still going strong 5 yrs on. I'll be doing the same when its time is up. Yes I do like proper brand etc. in the telco industry we use a lot of types and the high end brands do fail regularly, difference being they are warrantied by the suppliers and changed out. Lately the low end regular use brand is Remco, in a few years the swapouts will come in and I'll see how they hold up. The very best batteries were spiral wound cylindrical - Gates / Hawker Cyclon series and I've seen some european cylindrical types fitted to Alpi arcraft these tend to be extra expensive, the only equvalent sold here is Optima which I dont know the quality.

I've installed / fixed Becker, Xcom, Microair but only seen one Flightline 760 which the owner said was really good. Should be OK for most RA installs https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/avionics_instruments/av/menus/av/comm_0browse.html