Narrabeenrick Posted August 4, 2018 Author Share Posted August 4, 2018 Spray booth built, parts de-burred, scotchbrited { is that a word?} cleaned and wiped down, sprayed with the etch primer and riveted !!! On my way. Two small hiccups. Started to rivet and noticed I had the wrong head in the gun, riveted about 10 rivets so I'll drill them out and replace with the domed head. and second I started to rivet the leading edge skin "under the trailing edge skin, again got about 8 rivets in before I picked up the mistake. So I stopped and will remove those few rivets and install skin correctly tomorrow. At least I pick up the mistakes and rectify them I'd hate to get so far into something and realise a long way down the track that I'd f%&$#@ something up. Cheers Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narrabeenrick Posted August 4, 2018 Author Share Posted August 4, 2018 different rudder top to allow the install of a strobe? Don't know, I think it's just an update with the blown moulded parts. the other parts were just straight aluminium, the moulded plastic gives a nicer rounded finish rather than the straight harsh edge of the old aluminium . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty_d Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 Spray booth built, parts de-burred, scotchbrited { is that a word?} cleaned and wiped down, sprayed with the etch primer and riveted !!! On my way. Two small hiccups. Started to rivet and noticed I had the wrong head in the gun, riveted about 10 rivets so I'll drill them out and replace with the domed head. and second I started to rivet the leading edge skin "under the trailing edge skin, again got about 8 rivets in before I picked up the mistake. So I stopped and will remove those few rivets and install skin correctly tomorrow. At least I pick up the mistakes and rectify them I'd hate to get so far into something and realise a long way down the track that I'd f%&$#@ something up.Cheers Rick Easy mistakes to make. Generally speaking, any surface with an overlap would usually have the part towards the front being the outer surface. eg: Guess you wouldn't want airflow pushing into the joint. Take your time, look at the plans and assembly photos heaps. It's a marathon not a sprint! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narrabeenrick Posted November 15, 2018 Author Share Posted November 15, 2018 Ok it's been a while, but made a bit of progress since last time I posted. I stop posting because they changed this site a bit and couldn't work out how to put pic's up! the kit turned in July I've finished the rudder, tail/ elevator with electric trim, flaps and ailerons with electric trim and half way through my first wing. So what I have learnt so far in this build is if something doesn't feel right or look right STOP ! go on the forums and ask questions and also CHECK FOR PLAN UPDATES!. My first mistake was "assumptions" One would assume that when you buy a brand new kit they would send out ALL of the news updated plans with the kit, NO NO NO You still need to chase up yourself the latest plans. The 2 things wrong with the kit so far were all to do with the updates they don't supply and you have to find yourself. Luckily I have met on here a guy building one 1hr drive from me, he has been SOOOOOO helpful. The fist was the top of the rudder and the second was the bent strip install on the elevator that shows on the plan sliding over and locking the top and bottom horns together, but my strip that was all predrilled was to short, and would only fit under the two horns. found the updates and finished it off. a lot of time wasted chasing things up like that. I emailed the factory and they take forever to get back to you, I pointed out the problems and they said they are working towards all aircraft being finished hole predrilled matched hole fitting, so very little drilling if any. We have a new Zenith deal here in Oz now and he is great to deal with, James Fisher, if you need anything give him a call. Anyway see you guys in 2 weeks we are off to the Maldives tomorrow, so reply will have to wait. Cheers Rick 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planedriver Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 I did quite a bit of research on aluminium corrosion protection as I used to own an aluminium fabrication business and the powder coating company I used chromated the aluminium prior to powder coating. This is a chemical conversion process and stops aluminium from oxidising and changes the colour to a goldish hue. It is very effective but highly toxic as is alodine which was used in the aircraft industry extensively. I used a product called PreKote which is applied with a scotchbrite pad. It is non toxic and has a very pleasant aroma but you are advised to wear rubber gloves gloves when applying it. When it is applied it foams up just like a detergent. After application you must apply primer paint within 24 hours. After application the test to see if it has worked as there is no colour change is to pour water over the area and if it does not web, i.e. the water film clings to the surface uniformly it is ready for priming. I have attached the Prekote MSDS and application procedure pdf files. I bought 1 US gallon which at the time (2014) cost around $90.00 & I still have more than a litre left. prekote_msds_sds.pdf prekote_aircraft_application_procedures.pdf It works well on outboard motor corrosion as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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