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Taylor-Monoplane


Don January

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end design and getting it mounted. Stayed with something light and simple and with bushing thickness I can gain or lose height from rudder base to ground by nearly 2 inches.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well got the tail wheel mounted and picked up some tires and brake shoes and hubs. Will order Azusa rims soon and get busy on the mains. I came up with my own tail wheel mount and it really works good and found no need for a added shock and weight. I'm plugging along on a very fun build.

 

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  • 6 months later...

Still working away on the t-mono started to tackle the wings and fuel tank and the 1000 other things yet to come. came up with some tabs for mounting wind screen from an old bug deflector from my truck. Fuel tank is twice of what I need but a fellow T-mono builder in Florida will use the other half. I trying to shift the tank back towards the main spar closer to CG mounting just under the upper longerons front of tank will be about 8" from fire wall and run back to instrument panel. Talk about having the fuel sitting on your lap :yikes: I may drop from 10.5' DEPTH TO 7.5 or tapper from 10.5" back to 3" aft. I think that would fit the mission better. One thing fella's I'm still having fun just hoping I don't mess up those Diehl wing skins for one the cost and second I don't think they can be bought any more. 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have gained ground in the tail feather part of the build by detailing the rudder and elevator by adding balsa and getting the surface flat on the same plain as the fabric will lay. The one picture that has a socket extension is to show how I drilled a access hole to get to bolt heads once the bottom part of rudder is covered with ply. Build has still remained a enjoyment and plenty work left to have fun. :thumb up:

 

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Thanks to all that have followed the thread and facthunter your right it has been a rather challenging plane to get built but I do so like the smell of cut wood. The rudder is of good size when your sanding and handling through out the day.

 

 

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I believe your absolutely correct Nev. first was the Taylor-mono then the Taylor-Titch. Tho they are common across the pond but here in the states there rather  rare . I would love to post all my project pictures here but I imagine the forum has limits? I try and post pictures of any changes I made concerning the Technic of the build and how I changed some of the cable routing for elevator. One thing I did lately was to move my throttle knob up in the bottom left corner of dash to allow clearance of the back of header tank. It was a easy fix because I was able to use the same holes for Alum angle that is used for the throttle cable mount. As any builder knows a person must be patient when building a plane. Pictures are of the throttle position change and the other hole in Alum angle mount will be for Carb  heat control. I have plenty room left in instrument panel for other planned items yet to be installed.

 

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May I suggest if the design doesn't have it, that you duplicate the elevator control function so It's fail safe. A SEPARATE elevator trim system will achieve this. Not a spring acting on the original mechanism.. I don't have detail knowledge of the design but without pitch control you are no more. Nev

 

 

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Nev. I've been researching a way to get trim for the elevator beings there is no trim on any of the controls. The rudder I can add a external hand adjustable tab but the elevator is another matter especially with CG issues with fuel burn off. I have a  duel pulley behind the rear root spar as poor picture shows and kicking around an idea by using a cam type system or jack screw to get at least up trim or possibly both  on elevator. the print call for two sets of cables for elevator one set running internally down each side of Fus. Besides if I loose elevator control I'll just roll it on it's side and land with the rudder. :black eye: JK JK  :yikes:

 

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Trim tabs can have their own issues but I've had both fail (not at the same time) so the other became critical.. Small planes only need pitch trim to be adjustable in flight but your fuel location may make it more necessary if it affects the Cof G much..  Nev

 

 

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Nev. I was thinking beings my elevator is still uncovered I think a sub trim spar can be added on either side and a cable activated trim could be included. I can fit a 39 square (13" x 3") inch trim tab with very little work at this stage. Some people speak of a servo activated trim much like the KR-2S has but I think cable would be less head ache and less to fail. My KR-2 had a cable activated trim for elevator and it worked well.

 

 

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You don't look to have mass balance and you don't need a trim tab both sides. As DJP says  It's something you must consider. External cables are prone to stone damage etc so something internal (More protected) is preferred.  If your tab linkage disconnects it will act like a bullroarer... Nev

 

 

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Weight is a big factor on such a small bird but I do have a couple things going for me. One is I'm using the Diehl wing and have the ability to add wing tanks and have the CG more under control during fuel burn off but that brings in the fact that more weight is added to the aircraft and more potential chance of system failure. There would only be one trim tab on elevator starboard side either 26 square inches or 39 sq. I have been studying different counter balance for elevator and there is a small amount of room under the fin for an arm to mount counter weight. But in truth I 'm not totally convinced if any thing is needed beyond John Taylors original  design of the tall group other then the mounting of the Horz.Stab. The other plus is I'm 155 lb soak and wet and just getting lighter with my age. One hiden thing that haunts me is I have the fire wall that slopes back and not 90 degrees to thrust line and prints call for the builder to move fire wall back 3" if VW engine is used so it makes me think that I will be nose heavy and may need weight placed at the tail to get CG in range but too early to tell but I feel comfortable with building the tail group heavier  then prints called for. By the way I was fiddling with signature and ended up with a picture and have no idea how to remove it. :book:   

 

 

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Think I'd run the internal counterweight and make sure the LE elevator spar is stiff in the centre. If you get the horiz. stab angle right . (can it be shimmed?) you need less tab area. Shame to add weight(s) to the tail as it affects spin recovery getting mass at each end of the plane.. Nev

 

 

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Nev. As a matter of fact I can adjust the incidence of the Horz stab because of the way I mounted it. (POST 7 ) I would just need to place thin shims under leading edge mount angle. If a trim is added to elevator I will route cable internally as my KR  was done.n I wonder why Mr. Taylor didn't add thrust counter balance to elevator as he did the rudder ? I like the thought of having the Horz stab on a jack screw and that would eliminate the need for elev. trim. :doh:   

 

 

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 Too much complexity with the screw jack. You would have to structurally redesign the whole Horizontal stab and you would add plenty of weight. Spend a bit of time shimming it. It may be OK from the start but nice to have the option. Nev

 

 

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Nev. You right on that note of adding alot of weight but then a person gets to thinking of none metal things such as a "airbag" and movement is controlled by air and not a heavy metal all thread plus the rear mounts would have to hinge for movement. Oh well that's the joy of home built aircraft and man gets to scratch his head every now and then and try and come up with a new way of accomplishing mission. Its funny I have a 1939 Stinson HW75 that I cant find parts for and this T-mono that I have to make every part.  :insane:

 

 

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Nev. You right on that note of adding alot of weight but then a person gets to thinking of none metal things such as a "airbag" and movement is controlled by air and not a heavy metal all thread plus the rear mounts would have to hinge for movement. Oh well that's the joy of home built aircraft and man gets to scratch his head every now and then and try and come up with a new way of accomplishing mission. Its funny I have a 1939 Stinson HW75 that I cant find parts for and this T-mono that I have to make every part.  :insane:

 

An air bag or actuator could not be used on any control surface due to elasticity?. catastrophic flutter could result. Well proven certified aircraft have been known to flutter with incorrect rigging and or control cable tension.

 

https://www.ntsb.gov/_layouts/ntsb.aviation/brief2.aspx?ev_id=20050314X00308&ntsbno=ANC05LA046&akey=1

 

 

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Rods are best ( For feel) but proper run cable (and pulleys) have been around for a long time.  Make them uneven length at the joins/ adjusters so they can't be assembled incorrectly.. . Heavy stuff in little planes is often the starter and the battery.  You might choose to go without? Nev

 

 

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Rods are best ( For feel) but proper run cable (and pulleys) have been around for a long time.  Make them uneven length at the joins/ adjusters so they can't be assembled incorrectly.. . Heavy stuff in little planes is often the starter and the battery.  You might choose to go without? Nev

 

Is there a solution with those boost starter units that are small and light, instead of a battery? And a geared lightweight starter?

 

 

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There are lighter starters than the auto style earlier ones and smaller alternators. I'd be somewhat wary of anything real fancy in the battery dept. It's a bit like motorcycles where I find AGM paste batteries the best but monitor the temps with them. You can go without a starter. I've gone a lot of places on my own without one. Propping is a bit risky but mainly for people doing it wrong. A 4 cyl motor is much easier than a six in that respect. The compressions are all at the same place with a 2 blade prop.. Nev

 

 

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As it stand right now I plan NOT to have any electrical in the plane mainly because of the limited room FWF. We all have access to some amazing hand held GPS and radios. The airbag idea was just that. I was thinking of a way to raise and lower the leading edge of the Horz stab for in flight pitch trim instead of having a trim tab but its way to complicated for this tiny bird not to mention the weight and risk involved. In the picture you can see how I mounted a pulley in front of the Fin for the elevator cable. The prints show the cable's running threw a fair- leed and once that wears threw you start cutting wood because at that area the cable changes direction about 30 degrees. The last picture is of the pulleys I added for rudder cables before they exit the Fus. again on the prints the cables are actually ran threw the vertical uprights near the rear root spar and also with fair- leeds.

 

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