information Aileron hinge lubrication

My Flight manual says lubricate control moving parts with ACF 50 or like. WD40 can be used. I use INOX which I find is really good. The hinges on my aircraft are aluminum. Wear from lubrication in these areas is 1% of FA. Follow the manual but in agricultural opperations hinges were always lubricated and I can not recall ever having to change one.

TN

INOX is my fav spray, I use it on everything that moves, yet to see a control surface hinge fall off due lubrication of any kind? I'm a lube kinda guy, if it moves I lube it??

Has anyone thought to check what Jabiru recommend or approve?

The FRP boat industry had a sub industry of transom rebuilders courtesy the people who drill a new hole through which allows water to expand the hardwood reinforcement, and lubricants incompatible with the resin.

Jabiru aileron hinges are also mounted in resin.

I doesn't matter what you use but dust will stick to anything that remains greasy. As has already been said that turns into a grinding paste over time if not cleaned and flushed out. Candan Industries is an Australian company that manufactures the best range of lubricants available IMHO. Their INOX range of products have received worldwide acclaim including in the Aviation market. An Australian manufacturing success story among the dwindling number of manufacturers still here.

Just wash the thing thoroughly in WD40 - that will do the job.

I have heard of aileron hinges being replaced and think this is overkill.

Look at it this way; the hinges are long, but very light construction.

When installed the accuracy required for 100% loading along the length probably isn't achievable without a mechanical installation, so the bearing surfaces are likely to be limited to a few high spots. There's nothing woring with metal to metal contact for slow and occasional use, but wear is still taking place and an aileron hinge is is constant use while flying.

If the wear reaches the point where a section of rod snaps there's potential for part of the rod to start sliding and jamming.

You are then left with whatever aileron angle it jammed at, and the secondary effects of what I considered, after my experiences, a tiny rudder.

I would be doing a programmed hinge replacement.

Yep, if the pins have significant wear then I agree they should be replaced. In the meantime, I plan to keep the hinges clean of grease plus dust.

Have you noticed that the elevator hinges on the Jabiru are quite beefy things? Apparently a prototype plane exhibited what they thought was elevator flutter, but turned out to be the unbalanced nose wheel starting to spin at 100 knots.

what is graphite powder compatibility like with resin and hinge material ?

Graphite is one of the most inert and non-reactive products in the chemistry world. It is added to polymers, resins and composites to improve wear resistance, and to add benefits such as anti-static properties.

just thought it might be useful. considering what I use it for... lub for padlocks. bicycle parts, robot joints, and I add it to polymer resin for 3d printing.

Most of the "wear "is caused by play and vibration . There may also be galvanic action if part of the hinge is Al. Nev

On 7/19/2020 at 8:26 AM, Bruce Tuncks said:

There is a new WD40 dry teflon lube in a spray can which I have been using, but I like the idea of teflon powder in isopropyl alcohol better... or maybe molybdenum disulphate powder. The moly only has the dawback of being black but at least you would know its there. I am planning to try this with alcohol hand-sanitiser as the carrier.

Some attention is warranted I reckon. A small amount of play can give a lot of aileron play. The technique I have been shown is to squeeze the hinge tight again with heavy pliers then clean and lubricate.

I have heard of aileron hinges being replaced and think this is overkill.

I spoke to Jabiru (Jamie Cook) about increased play in the hinge pins. His advice was NOT to compress the hinge “rings”.  That will weaken the ring. 
The advice to fix the play was to make a slightest  bend in the pin about 10 -15 mm from the end and then go to the other end and make a similar bend in the opposite direction. 

That fixed the issue.