Jump to content

Replacement Jabiru battery


Recommended Posts

I'm having a bit of difficulty sourcing a replacement battery for a Jabiru

 

It currently uses the Odyssey PC625, but that battery seems to be unavailable till June sometime

 

Can anyone suggest a compatible battery? 

 

The battery box on the Jab is a snug fit for the Odyssey, so larger batteries are out.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced an Odyssey PC625 with a LiFe 13.2 battery and saved 5kg. The odyssey is still doing good service in a buggy at the farm. Once I thought I had killed it by leaving the master on but it came back from totally flat and is still working years later. I only replaced it for the weight saving.

 

Don't do this unless you are a bit of an electronics enthusiast because the LiFe battery is not really compatible with the usual charger system.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A super sport SSB VB16CL-B battery from the local bike shop will fit right in, and has more CCA than the odyssey, and less than half price too.

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.

 

The Odyssey decided to lie down and die this morning, (7 years old, so it had a good run ) -  I'll prob go for a motorbike style replacement to get going.

 

I had a LiFePO4 battery in my streak shadow for a couple of years with the standard 582 regulator/charger, and had not 1 problem with it. But I'm happy to use an AGM style battery for the Jab

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

SSB  Power Sport XR Series, Battery Part No. RB16CL-B - fitted August 2013 & still starting my Rotax 912 ULS. Cost back then $140.00

 

Check out their web site - these battery's are designed to start high HP motorcycles. They are Dry Cell (no spill) vibratio resistant & can be installed on their side (if you wish)

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

The Full River direct replacement may not be quite so direct. I bought one for my PC625 replacement, it was in a tin case which I had to remove to fit the battery tray in my aircraft, (the actual battery is the same size, but there's no mention of it being in a case!) then I realised that the positive and negative terminal where reversed, so I could not use it due to insufficient battery cable reach - in my aircraft installation - setup for, and only for, the battery sitting a certain way with the terminals out in the breeze. I did not have more cable than it needed. Nope, not even another 150mm. Foiled again. I just went and bought a PC625. I put the Full River into a battery box with a solar panel to power an electric fence. Works GREAT. I used a $30 solar car charge panel on it (in the hangar, ambient light) and got 8 years out of the first one before deciding to change it "just because" - it was still starting AOK after 8 years. I think the solar trickle charge just keeps the battery up, not naturally depleting over time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My experience has been that PC680 and the Full River replacement for it are better not trickle charged. Since I stopped trickle solar charging I have got better life from both types.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was my experience too Yenn. I left a new lead-acid gel-cell on a regulated solar trickle charger for a month and it was no good after that. I have no explanation for this, and tried to forget it till you said the same thing.

The old Odyssey is 18 years old now ( the gel cell came with the jab kit in 1998 and was thrown out in 2001) and it ( the Odyssey PC625) is still ok here in the farm buggy. They have a different chemistry to gel-cells I think.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting. I got 8 years out of my first battery, always using the solar trickle charger, my mate got just 4 years without one before his battery just gave up. Mine was still going strong at 8 years. Now 7 years out of the current battery, still going strong. Mate uses a trickle now and has probably over 8 years on his battery now, still going great. We use our old batteries to power a cordless drill (yes, with a cord now) and a light.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm having a bit of difficulty sourcing a replacement battery for a Jabiru...

 

Can anyone suggest a compatible battery?

If you're 19- reg you may be able to fit a lithium. Lots of us have had good service from drop-in LiFEPO4 batteries, which are mobs safer than other Li types, keep their charge for months and are said to last ten years.

The huge reduction in weight is a bonus, but only if you can rearrange other items, such as the tool kit, to preserve CoG.

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

...I'd be a little concerned with having a battery that spins the engine a lot faster with the flywheel bolts and all that. Nev

Nev I agree, and I've raised that concern before; It only seems to be an issue when restarting a hot engine.

When starting from cold, even on hot summer days, my LiFePO4 battery starts slowly, as if nearly flat, then quickly builds up revs.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think , if I had a Jab motor I'd seriously consider doing the" near the prop" starter drive conversion. The 80 HP 912's ALSO HAD problems with starter drives The Lycoming type looks crude but it saves going through the guts of the engine to turn it over and I've seen some vicious kick backs with them at times with a very hot motor (and maybe a bit too much throttle). Nev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think , if I had a Jab motor I'd seriously consider doing the" near the prop" starter drive conversion...

Is a kit available? Sounds like major surgery.

It might be easier to mount the prop outboard of the flywheel and turn the whole plurry thing backwards, as some did to their VW engines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think , if I had a Jab motor I'd seriously consider doing the" near the prop" starter drive conversion. The 80 HP 912's ALSO HAD problems with starter drives The Lycoming type looks crude but it saves going through the guts of the engine to turn it over and I've seen some vicious kick backs with them at times with a very hot motor (and maybe a bit too much throttle). Nev

 

I don't think there is such a kit and it would have no advantage because the prop flange on a jab is also bolted to the crank, a lycoming is one piece. Fitting a front seal on a lycoming is a bit like child birth, looks impossible but it is done every day.

  • Informative 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Jab has effectively two flywheels The prop and the weird mounted one down the back. it's obvious which one can take more load. and they tend to fight each other, as one would expect. It has been done already. The actual starter motor can stay down the back and use a hollow shaft to the front. Nev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you could only have an external starter everywhere, you could dispense with the battery, starter motor, bendix and flywheel cogs.

Once I saw an old movie where a German was starting a plane with a big flywheel thing on a wheeled frame. It looked like those old hand-grinders only much bigger. It was spun up to speed then engaged.

And I still have a model plane starter which is a hand-held electric motor and it works great. It bears on the spinner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think your idea would require a complete re design of most motors and props. Hand propping used to be common, but I have not seen it done for years. I think the last time I did it was last century.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...