Thanks planedriver. I almost forgot to add a picture of the underside of my dash box. I ran strips of ply 90* to the other and epoxied. This gives me 7 hard points to mount wind screen and the whole box weighs about the same as a beer. A pounder that is
With measurements needed from firewall and instrument panel I have came up with patterns to build a Alum fuel tank consisting of 4 main components. I also saved some Alum fittings from my KR-2 fuel tank and can incorporate them into the tank. Will get total amount of fuel tank will hold after it's welded and tested. I will make a guess at about 7.2 gallons
worked on rudder horn and rudder pedal stops. and working on getting the full throw stop timed were there will be no stress on pedals at either end of the system. Also added a T-6 Alum plate on my rudder base plate to help with wear from heel movement from brakes. I'm just plugging along and making a lot of plane noises in my head.
A fello builder donated a Maule tail wheel to me and with luck I can find a 4"- 5" wheel to fit axle and if my drill bits hold up I can get a couple holes drilled into the KR-2 spring and have a Tail wheel on the Taylor-m. I'm contemplating on how a couple of nose wheel main strut off a Cessna 150 would work with the right spar plate welded to them for main gear??
Well got the tail wheel mounted and picked up some tires and brake shoes and hubs. Will order Azusa rims soon and get busy on the mains. I came up with my own tail wheel mount and it really works good and found no need for a added shock and weight. I'm plugging along on a very fun build.
Still working away on the t-mono started to tackle the wings and fuel tank and the 1000 other things yet to come. came up with some tabs for mounting wind screen from an old bug deflector from my truck. Fuel tank is twice of what I need but a fellow T-mono builder in Florida will use the other half. I trying to shift the tank back towards the main spar closer to CG mounting just under the upper longerons front of tank will be about 8" from fire wall and run back to instrument panel. Talk about having the fuel sitting on your lap I may drop from 10.5' DEPTH TO 7.5 or tapper from 10.5" back to 3" aft. I think that would fit the mission better. One thing fella's I'm still having fun just hoping I don't mess up those Diehl wing skins for one the cost and second I don't think they can be bought any more.
I have gained ground in the tail feather part of the build by detailing the rudder and elevator by adding balsa and getting the surface flat on the same plain as the fabric will lay. The one picture that has a socket extension is to show how I drilled a access hole to get to bolt heads once the bottom part of rudder is covered with ply. Build has still remained a enjoyment and plenty work left to have fun.
Thanks to all that have followed the thread and facthunter your right it has been a rather challenging plane to get built but I do so like the smell of cut wood. The rudder is of good size when your sanding and handling through out the day.
I believe your absolutely correct Nev. first was the Taylor-mono then the Taylor-Titch. Tho they are common across the pond but here in the states there rather rare . I would love to post all my project pictures here but I imagine the forum has limits? I try and post pictures of any changes I made concerning the Technic of the build and how I changed some of the cable routing for elevator. One thing I did lately was to move my throttle knob up in the bottom left corner of dash to allow clearance of the back of header tank. It was a easy fix because I was able to use the same holes for Alum angle that is used for the throttle cable mount. As any builder knows a person must be patient when building a plane. Pictures are of the throttle position change and the other hole in Alum angle mount will be for Carb heat control. I have plenty room left in instrument panel for other planned items yet to be installed.
May I suggest if the design doesn't have it, that you duplicate the elevator control function so It's fail safe. A SEPARATE elevator trim system will achieve this. Not a spring acting on the original mechanism.. I don't have detail knowledge of the design but without pitch control you are no more. Nev
Nev. I've been researching a way to get trim for the elevator beings there is no trim on any of the controls. The rudder I can add a external hand adjustable tab but the elevator is another matter especially with CG issues with fuel burn off. I have a duel pulley behind the rear root spar as poor picture shows and kicking around an idea by using a cam type system or jack screw to get at least up trim or possibly both on elevator. the print call for two sets of cables for elevator one set running internally down each side of Fus. Besides if I loose elevator control I'll just roll it on it's side and land with the rudder. JK JK
Trim tabs can have their own issues but I've had both fail (not at the same time) so the other became critical.. Small planes only need pitch trim to be adjustable in flight but your fuel location may make it more necessary if it affects the Cof G much.. Nev
Nev. I was thinking beings my elevator is still uncovered I think a sub trim spar can be added on either side and a cable activated trim could be included. I can fit a 39 square (13" x 3") inch trim tab with very little work at this stage. Some people speak of a servo activated trim much like the KR-2S has but I think cable would be less head ache and less to fail. My KR-2 had a cable activated trim for elevator and it worked well.
You don't look to have mass balance and you don't need a trim tab both sides. As DJP says It's something you must consider. External cables are prone to stone damage etc so something internal (More protected) is preferred. If your tab linkage disconnects it will act like a bullroarer... Nev