jcruffle Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 :confused: I damaged the red plastic cap that protects the exhaust on my 230 (the one with the 'Remove Before Flight' tag on it). I know I have seen these somewhere before, but cannot for the life of me remember where. Can anyone help???!! I would like to replace it with the same kind; they are so convenient. John
JabSP6 Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 John They are used in Hydraulic shops to block off fittings and hoses etc and can be bought i a range of sizes. Andrew
jcruffle Posted November 3, 2010 Author Posted November 3, 2010 Thanks, Andrew. You are a legend. John
biggles5128 Posted November 4, 2010 Posted November 4, 2010 I'm sure a quick call to Jabiru will see one in the mail, the right size etc..........
Guest trevoratbay Posted December 7, 2010 Posted December 7, 2010 trevoratbay John its most important to plug the exhaust while the motor is still hot this was explained to me at jabiru when I first bought mine it stops the moisture air being sucked back into the cylinders as the engine cools, thus causing cylinder wall corrosion I dont know how many flyins Ive been to and seen jabs with no exhaust plugs, happy flying
dazza 38 Posted December 7, 2010 Posted December 7, 2010 Hi John, as mentioned by John, The hydraulic Items are call - Hydraulic Blanks.
sseeker Posted December 11, 2010 Posted December 11, 2010 Something that has occurred to me when packing my schools aeroplane away. You come back from a flight, taxi around to the hangar, stop and put her away. When placing the exhaust cap back on should you consider the heat from the exhaust? Will it damage the plastic/stick it to the exhaust? I decided to wait for a while then I put the cap on. -Andrew
jcruffle Posted December 11, 2010 Author Posted December 11, 2010 I have found in my Jab that the exhaust pipe cools very quickly, probably because it is made of fairly light material and will not damage the plastic ... however.... it is probably no coincidence that the only cap to fail is the one on the exhaust. The cap that covers the air intake is fine. I guess there must be some residual heat internally that has affected it.
ieadave Posted December 12, 2010 Posted December 12, 2010 I fly behind a Jabiru in the US and have never heard of this capping the exhaust after flying. Never, ever, where do you find is requirement and recomendation in Jabiru literature? Just wondering. Dave
mlpinaus Posted December 12, 2010 Posted December 12, 2010 Exhaust cap.... The aeroplane comes out of the box with various covers and plugs, all with "remove before flight tags". The exhaust pipe gets a dinky little red cap that blocks it effectively, stopping moist air from condensing in the exhaust system as it cools. My new aircraft came also with the world's most expensive baseball cap, but that is another story.....i_dunno Marcus
facthunter Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 Corrosion.Jabiru. No different from most engines, with steel cylinders. Always shut the engine down hot. If you just run it for a short time there will be moisture in the motor from the products of combustion. (1 gallon of petrol makes more than 1 gallon of water.) A squirt of WD 40 or Inox up the pipe will not hurt either. Capping it helps too. The most likely parts to be affected are the exhaust valve stems and the cylinder walls. IF the motor is left for an extended time without use, ( more than a couple of weeks), it should be inhibited. This is a process designed to prevent corrosion , internally. The CASA website covers this in some detail . Nev
Modest Pilot Posted December 14, 2010 Posted December 14, 2010 No it's not a requirement, but if placed on with the engine still warm; any engine; it can cut internal corrosion by as much as 90%
rick-p Posted January 28, 2011 Posted January 28, 2011 No different from most engines, with steel cylinders.Always shut the engine down hot. If you just run it for a short time there will be moisture in the motor from the products of combustion. (1 gallon of petrol makes more than 1 gallon of water.) A squirt of WD 40 or Inox up the pipe will not hurt either. Capping it helps too. The most likely parts to be affected are the exhaust valve stems and the cylinder walls. IF the motor is left for an extended time without use, ( more than a couple of weeks), it should be inhibited. This is a process designed to prevent corrosion , internally. The CASA website covers this in some detail . Nev Nev spot on again, but shutting it down hot still means that you should idle the engine for a little before you shut it down as this process does, as I understand it, help despose of some of the moisture produced during flying or hi rev operations. The value of plugging the exhaust where I live is basically good for stopping the mud wasps or other nasties getting up inside it with their house, family and friends. Rick-p
Ultralights Posted January 29, 2011 Posted January 29, 2011 wouldnt just as much moisture be drawn in through the induction system as the engine cools?
facthunter Posted January 29, 2011 Posted January 29, 2011 maybe. There is no great wind through the motor as only briefly are the two valves open in any cylinder. The dashpot slide closes anyhow. You really should remove the plugs and squirt something into the cylinder(s) if you are not using it for a while. I (and others) have kept mufflers and exhaust systems on Jap bikes.from corroding by spraying inox or similar up the half cooled exhaust pipe. Lasted well over 20 years in some cases. Nev
Old Koreelah Posted January 29, 2011 Posted January 29, 2011 Would mixing an upper cylinder lube (or 2-stroke oil) into the fuel achieve the dame result, by coating internal surfaces with a film of lube?
facthunter Posted January 29, 2011 Posted January 29, 2011 Some people advocate this and others rubbish the idea. With old bikes I run, I add about 5 mls to 5 litres of racing outboard oil. (1/1,000) Any time I open the motor there is a oil wetness all through the intake area. A tiny amount of oil really. Outboard oil has anti-corrosive things in it and will not lower the octane rating, and doesn't form carbon. I think there are people out there who do add a bit of upper cyl to their Jabs. IF I had one i would do it. It's up to you. Nev
frank marriott Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Unable to source in Townsville at the two main Hydraulic shops here however was in Bunderberg two days ago and got 2 for $1.50. All good.
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