503 Help

[Geoff]

Hey Zulu I'm a dumb Ausie What is a HKS

 

 

[ZULU1]

HKS 700e

 

I thought that you would have them over there ?? HKS is a very large supplier of aftermarket turbo/engine tuning kit for Jap cars in the USA and Europe.

 

They have ventured into the Aero engine market with the HKS 700e a two cylinder 60hp 4 stroke motor, it delivers mid way between a 503 and a 582 BUT with awesome fuel figures. Mine has been exceptional; the best bit its the same price as a 582 with the 4 stroke benefits. The Italians have turbocharged a unit but we cant find much info on that project. So we may just do it ourselves as the nett performance is the same as 912 but lighter of course cheaper and obviously for SA altitude compensating which is amajor problem in Jhb.

 

Type in HKS 700e in your browser and have a look.

 

Cheers Paul

 

 

[vk3auu]

HKS 700e

 

Look it up with Google

 

David

 

 

[Geoff]

Thanks Guys

 

 

[Guest ozzie]

Two Stroke Seal Tests

 

I have been shown an easy and effective way of testing crank seals a long time back by an old flatracker rider.

 

Make a fitting to screw into the spark plug hole with a T piece at the top. fit a small pressure gauge to one side and a good shut off fitting to the other. addapt a good pushbike tyre pump to the shut off fitting and pump the cylinder up to 5 psi no more. shut the valve and go have a coffee. observe the pressure reading. should be the same. if it is seals ok go look at something else for performance loss. note both ports need to be blanked off to do this test.

 

Also get to know what your engine sounds like.

 

buy a mechanics stethoscope learn what good bearings sound like, piston noise ect.

 

engines talk, learn to listen. run engines regularly and never for any less than 20 minutes.

 

just a tip

 

Ozzie

 

 

[Yenn]

If you blank off the ports and pump up the cylinder how are you testing the crank seals. Do you mean blank off the ports and pump up the crankcase?

 

How do you blank off the ports for long enough for a coffee?

 

 

[Guest ozzie]

two strokes. remove the exhaust and carby. bolt your blanks (metal plates and gasket) to the both ports to achive an airtight seal. insert your adapter to the spark plug hole. add 5 psi to the engine. this will pressurise the cylinder and the crackcase (via the transfer ports). the air should stay in the engine unless you have a blown cylhead gasket cyl base gasket or blown crank seals.

 

 

[Guest AVU]

Hi All.

 

Two stroke engines can be, and are reliable, but it takes a bit more than a quick glance and a change of plugs at the service interval. Before starting a scheduled service have the (workshop manual handy) and the proper tools nearby, and include a cyclonic tester (worth is weight in gold) for all two-stroke engines.

 

If your engine is new use the cyclonic bearing tester and note the results in your engine logbook. Workshop manual will have the clearances and tolerances in the settings page. Use the settings as a yard stick at the next service (gives a good indication of wear and tear internally. Remove the exhaust manifold and plugs, on two-strokes without rotary valve, also remove the carbs. Use one of those inspection mirrors simular to what the dentists use and with a good torch inspect the innards of the barrel especially on the exhaust side. The marks on the inside will tell their own story. If there is no scoring, all is well, but if there are score marks, a deeper investigation is called for (honing marks in the barrel can be ignored). Rotate the crankshaft and line up the piston so you can see the ringlands and rings in the exhaust port. Using a wedge shaped piece of dowling (shaped as a blunt cold chisel) very lightly press on the rings, a slight movement means that the rings still have clearance in the bore, if not, then a strip-down to remove the carbon buildup under the rings is called for. Depending on the oil used, and the hours of operation, will also dictate if the need is there. Another good telltale sign is the carbon buildup in the exhaust port as that part of the combustion chaimber gets very hot. The EGT sender is usually located down stream from there (about 4 inches or 100 mm give or take a mm or so) from the piston skirt. The egt should indicate the exhaust temperature on your gauge. Do not let it get above the manufacturers recommendation, or you will suffer a meltdown, (Expensive) to say the least. The temperature, can, and is usually controlled by the settings in the carbs. If on the inlet side (carburetor's, rubber mounting flanges and aircleaners) are in good shape and the float level is correct. The little circlip on the needle will dictate the amount of fuel supplied to the cylinders via the main jet. The higher the clip on the needle the less fuel supplied, and opposite applies to the clip being in the lower position the more fuel supplied. In the winter months cold (dense air) asks for a slightly richer mixture (hence the clip in a lower position) but in summer (less dense air) a slightly leaner mixture is called for. The EGT gives the best indication of your fuelburn and the plugs are the first indication of where you are at. Monitor your EGT and plugs as they are your first line of indicators. Our Rotax 582 ran fairly trouble free for 1158 hrs only to have the big-end bearing collapse in the end (did not own a cyclonic tester at the time) but timely warnings, can, and should be taken into concideration when operating in a heavy usage environment.

 

Cheers.

 

Steve.