Wiring up a new PTT switch

[Virago]

The original switch would have been switching two circuits, (PTT and mic audio). You will have to duplicate that. The single circuit switch may not do the job. If it was a normal panel mount radio, I could guide you through it but I'm not familiar with the Vertex hand held radio so I can't help you there. Maybe Vertex have something in their accessory list you could use. John.

 

 

[Old Koreelah]

The original switch would have been switching two circuits, (PTT and mic audio). You will have to duplicate that. The single circuit switch may not do the job. If it was a normal panel mount radio, I could guide you through it but I'm not familiar with the Vertex hand held radio so I can't help you there. Maybe Vertex have something in their accessory list you could use. John.

Thanks, John. As the picture shows, I removed and dismantled the original switch as it was too big and ugly for the top of the stick.

Food for thought.

 

 

[Virago]

You could use that small switch if you were to use it to operate a small relay ... which in turn could switch both circuits. Suitable relays are quite cheap at places like Jaycar. John.

 

 

[av8vfr]

Jaycar DPDT button here

 

(Double Pole Double Throw)

 

 

[Tex]

http://www.brenorbrophy.com/HG/head_set_ptt.htm

[sfGnome]

Ok - the first thing to do to see if anything is damaged is to solder back in the old switches. If it works, you're still alive.

 

Next, use your multimeter to see whether pressing the switch makes or breaks the circuits. You might have a setup where one of the signals is connected when you push the button and one that is disconnected. When you've got that sorted, either the double pole switch that av8vfr suggested or Virago's relay would work, though it's probably easier to use the switch.

 

Key thing is to make sure that it replicates the make or break conditions of the original switches. Generally with those switches, the terminal in the middle is the common one, one of the terminals on the outside will be normally open, and the other will be normally closed. So, one wire to the centre, and the other wire to the correct outside pin depending on whether that pair need to be closed or open when you push the switch.

 

 

[Bernie]

Just another thought, I removed thr PPT from the stick on my Gazelle to the panel next to the throtle.

 

Gazelle owners will know what I meen lifting ones leg over the stick ment some times knocking that little red button off.

 

Once removed all good as ones hand is most times on or near the throtle.

 

Bernie

 

 

[Old Koreelah]

http://www.brenorbrophy.com/HG/head_set_ptt.htm

Thanks for that,Tex. Even if I don't use this idea, I found a little gem buried in the detail:

The Yaesu needs to be slightly longer... I filed away a small metal step at the base of the plug to allow the plug to reach further into the socket.

 

This could solve the problem of my having go hold the plug in as I press the transmit switch.

 

 

[Old Koreelah]

Just another thought, I removed thr PPT from the stick on my Gazelle to the panel next to the throtle.Gazelle owners will know what I meen lifting ones leg over the stick ment some times knocking that little red button off.

Once removed all good as ones hand is most times on or near the throtle.

 

Bernie

I like it...lateral thinking!

Inside the original big ugly PTT switch I found two tiny microswitches mounted side by side. I think I can embed them in the top of the stick and have a floating brass plate to cover the pair of plastic contacts simultaneously. Then, after passing the wire through the stick I can re-solder the original wires back together again.

 

The only problem remaining is the interference noise when transmitting. A mate has some Ferrite Voltage Spike Protectors/Noise Suppressors in a hinged plastic case, (as suggested here) so I can do some testing with them.

 

Thanks everyone for the detailed replies and I'll report on results later.