J160 Kit#14 various with Photos

[Ross]

03-05-2008

 

Noted that the Jabiru constructor's manual and service bulletins were updated on 1st May 2008.

 

 

 

The newer versions of the Jabiru constructor's manual have gone through a transition with a higher quality of photos and English text with more precise explanation.

 

 

Parcel arrived from Bundaberg West yesterday afternoon with the flame proof version of the cabin heater but not the different designed muff & hoses for the larger dia tubes. There was also a set of modified outer disk pad holders that are more user friendly than the originals.

 

 

 

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It appears that the brakes have been increased from one slave each side to two for the later J160. I am not sure of that not having looked very hard at the new manuals yet but I would not object to more effective brakes especially as you virtually have no steering under very heavy braking.

 

 

 

Today, tidied up the mount for the dial indicator by replacing the solid ).625" dia solid bar with a piece of hydraulic tubing same od. with a 0.5" bore, a fair bit lighter on the magnetic base.

 

 

[ATTACH]5644.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5645.vB[/ATTACH]New version next[ATTACH]5646.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5647.vB[/ATTACH]

 

Cut the head off the bolt screwed into the top of the magnetic chuck.

 

 

 

Put the clamp for the rod closer to the centre of the magnetic chuck. So bent up a large washer under the head of the clamp bolt making it easier to adjust with one spanner.

 

 

 

Drilled across through through the top of the dowels for the top door catches and Super-glued a couple of inserts into the handles to make them easier to pull out.

 

 

 

May be a good idea to apply some flock around the inserts later on.

 

 

 

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Put all the Jabiru applicable service bulletins in one four (4) ring binder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

09-05-2009

 

I decided that I was in imminent danger of falling over too much stuff all over the place in my carport and possibly breaking a leg!

 

 

 

So have started to reduce the clutter by making a wing stand instead of using the big box from Jabiru. I have also managed to get rid of a refridgerator and an old washing machine that was trapped in one corner of the carport and was almost impossible to get to.

 

 

 

The yellow plastic is from the local tarp manufacturer and are left over strips from making tarps for railway wheat trucks. The length needs adjusting to get the wings approximately level.

 

 

 

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Purchased a couple of extra doors to use as shelves to add to the old door that was already tying up a couple of saw horses.

 

 

 

So those three were were attached to a wall with timber bearers screwed into the brickwork. Loaded that up with all the bits like fairings, ailerons, flaps, elevator. The doors are there now above it together with the struts although they were added after the pic was taken.

 

 

 

Still more work to do there to make more working space and then actually do some work on the aeroplane.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

10-05-2008

 

The morning sky was a bit unusual this morning in Leeton being more yellow than normal.

 

 

 

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Did more work on reducing the stuff that lives on the floor by chopping up what had been a train set made for the kids probably back in the seventies. You can see the outline of the track on the box.

 

 

 

Made up a box for the air compressor - cuts the noise substantially might be even better if I can find some sound absorbent tiles to glue or sit inside it.

 

 

 

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Managed to get hold of some 100 mm wide foam rubber to use as tyre liners to reduce the risk from "cat heads". I hope I don't ever encounter any "castor oil plants" as they have burrs like giant cat heads.

 

 

 

 

 

I will put at least couple more door type shelves in the carport on Monday. That should get all the stuff off the floor and able to be covered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

11-05-2008

 

This morning was different with the sun eventually burning off a fog. Discovered that my camera time was still on daylight saving time; duh it doesn't automatically change.

 

 

 

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Removed a main UC wheel and inserted some sponge 100 mm wide in the tyre. Once I got the tyre off it was far easier than I envisaged. As the foam was readily compressible allowed an extra 20 or 30 mm length and pushed it in and seated well. No adhesive used. The 6 inch tyres have an outside circumference of about 44 inches or 1120 mm.

 

 

 

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Inserted the tube and partly inflated it to reduce the risk of pinching by the assembly process. Assembled the split rims to the tyre and remounted on the main UC. It is obviously out of balance once mounted on the axle and its own bearings.

 

 

 

 

 

About sunset my wife said don't put tea leaves down the sink it blocks the grease trap and it overflows!!!

 

 

 

Turns out the sump pump in the sump and 15 feet further down the line was not doing its job and the gauzed in area was now full of overflow from the sump as I had just back flushed the pool sand filter into the sump!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

15-05-2008

 

Been a bit crook for a while. But did a bit in between over the last couple of days.

 

 

 

Put another layer of shelves in, including a narrow one over the saw bench - note the engine box acting as the first moveable bench has had its extension removed and is now in the corner under the shelves. Cardboard boxes are gradually being emptied onto shelves.

 

 

 

Put another power box near the corner to give another work area. It will get the battery charging away from the fibre glassing weighing and mixing area, a bit late.

 

 

 

The garbage bin is full and more is on the concrete pavers outside the carport.

 

 

 

Found an adjustable tool at Mitre 10 to replace my lost one. It will undo the head on my angle grinder or anything else that requires that type of tool.

 

 

 

I just discovered the cut off wheel which has been around for a while but a lot better than I was used to.

 

 

 

The wing stand is on castors and is very easily moved.

 

 

 

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The MP1000 Graphtec Multi Pen Plotter with a RS-232 C interface is going on the scrap heap. If you don't know what an RS-232 interface is don't bother reading any more! It is not a variety of Parallel interface. It was used like another printer on my system at the time.

 

 

 

It was still working fine when I last used it but it needs programs to be written to drive it. I used to use a variety of Fortran to produce simple maps and some simple 3D drawings based on a data file containing all coordinates the X,Y,Z directions. I have lost all literature on it and have forgotten the detail.

 

 

 

If anybody wants it yell now. First in best dressed.

 

Obviously it has at least one stepper motor under the cover.

 

 

 

Apparently some years ago I had already chucked out all the pens and the pen holders that I had made to suit it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

26-05-2008

 

Spent most of yesterday afternoon printing selected parts of the new J160 construction manual from the Jabiru web site, a big improvement on my original version. I also printed all the relevant engine manuals for my non hydraulic valve lifter engine 22A 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine #1906.

 

 

 

Got some more information from the new J160 construction manual on on the cowl installation and setting up the engine thrust line.

 

 

 

Drilled out the existing pin holes for cowl piano hinge pins to 1/4" clearance, inserted guide copper tubing and quick set araldited it in place then dressed it off with a cutting wheel.

 

 

 

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Then the pins were tried again for an easy fit.

 

 

 

The piano hinges still need to be removed and epoxied in place and riveted.

 

 

 

 

 

A small laser level was used to trial the setting up of the engine thrust line.

 

 

 

The last three pics show the laser level being used to level the hull based on the hull join line. You can see the red laser dot on the hull line in the last two pics.

 

 

 

The laser dot seems to affect the digital camera focus.

 

 

 

The top of the engine housing should be parallel with the hull join line.

 

 

 

As the cabin was not yet level in the lateral plane it was not completed due to one wheel being still off the ground.

 

 

 

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But the laser level appears to be accurate enough for the job if set up properly in the X and Y horizontal planes.

 

 

 

The laser level was checked for accuracy over the length of the aeroplane from the back of a door to about the back end of the elevator. It appears to have less than about 1 mm error.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

27-05-2008

 

Put up another short shelf in the corner behind the engine above the air compressor in its box.

 

 

 

Cleared the main floor space at last so that the engine hoist could be manoeuvred over the cabin again. Note the front wheel is packed up a few cms so that the vertical stabiliser just clears the ceiling of the carport.

 

 

 

Both main UC wheels are just clear of the floor.

 

 

 

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Tomorrow should be able to line inside the starboard tyre with foam rubber, change the axle and drill fibreglass leg for and fit larger bolts to axel and UC.

 

 

 

I will wear my mask when I drill the leg this time!:confused:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

28-05-2008

 

Lifted the AC with the hoist and removed the starboard main UC wheel and stub axle.

 

 

 

Removed the wheel from the stub axle and deflated the tube.

 

 

 

Undid the bolts to split the wheel but the tyre did not want to let go of the rims despite the use of a couple of good tyre levers and a 6" vyce which would open just far enough to allow the tyre to be inserted and squeezed.

 

 

 

Eventually got the tyre off the rims by lubricating the area with detergent and water on the inside and outside of the tyre. I think some detergent and water will be part of my tool kit as well as the tyre levers.

 

 

 

Removed the tube.

 

 

 

Lined the tyre with foam making sure it was long enough to need some compression to fit in the space making the two ends so that there will be no gap.

 

 

 

Replaced the tube and partially inflated it to prevent pinching by the rims grabbing it during assembly.

 

 

 

Applied talcum powder to tyre and tube to ease fitting of rims.

 

 

 

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Refitted the split rims and bolted them together after taking care to align the valve teat and the bolt holes.

 

 

 

Enlarged the 1/4" holes in the brake pad mounting plate to 5/16" to suit the new axle bolts.

 

 

 

Fitted the new stub axle after drilling out the bolt holes in the UC legs to 11/32" and bolted it up with NA5 bolts and washers to an approximate good wheel alignment as done previously.

 

 

 

Only need one spanner to do up bolts on the new stub axle because the bolt heads are stopped from rotating by the axle.

 

 

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Will need to check the wheel alignment again after the plane is loaded with wings and fuel. Washers could be replaced with flock filling or fibreglass packing depending on the size of packing required.

 

 

 

Fitted the wheel back on the axle with the keeper on the outer end of the axle.

 

 

 

Let A/C down off hoist and tried moving it - moved about 12" easily on wheels - so far!

 

 

 

No sign of any conveyor belt under the A/C.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest Wayne]

Ross thanks for your reports on the project, its great to read your reports keep up the good work, Well done !

 

 

[Ross]

29-05-2008

 

Drilled out the rivets holding the piano hinges to the bottom cowl and prepared them for flocking to the cowl. This is not the method according to the new Jabiru construction manual and I don't recommend it.

 

 

 

Prepared the hinges with emery cloth and acetone also the matching area on the cowl.

 

 

 

Applied mixed resin to the cowl join area and then mixed flock into the remaining resin and applied a thin layer to the piano hinges.

 

 

 

Fitted the piano hinges to the cowl pulling it in with 3/32" CSK pop rivets using 5 rivets on each hinge. Cleaned up any dribbling flock on the inside of the cowl and spread it along the bottom edge of the hinges.

 

 

 

Cleaned up any flock intruding into the hinge holes on the top edge of the hinges.

 

 

 

Also inserted the hinge pins making sure that any flock is not spread along inside the hinge holes. This will help to keep the alignment of the hinges.

 

 

 

Marked out and cut the hole for the cabin air intake into the front of the cowl. Used a 29 mm hole saw and filed out the hole until the aluminium flange fitted in the hole.

 

 

 

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Used the flange as a template for drilling the rivet holes.

 

 

 

The flange will be mounted inside the cowl - not outside as shown in the pic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

02-06-2008

 

Located the join line of the top & bottom halves of the fuselage on both sides of the A/C.

 

 

 

Marked it by inserting two SS self tappers up just behind the door frames about 60 mm apart in the fuselage on each side of the a/c as well as a single one on the join line on each side of the A/C near the vertical stabiliser.

 

 

 

Clamped two even sized wooden blocks on the outside of the fuselage so that they sat on the self tappers locating the join line.

 

 

 

Used these blocks to support a straight edge across the cabin to support an electronic level to level the a/c laterally and the slip & skid instrument.

 

 

 

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Had to let some air out of one tyre to get it spot on.

 

 

 

Then levelled the a/c fore and aft based on the fuselage join line with the aid of a laser level, the already inserted SS self tappers and by jacking up the tail slightly to get a level a/c. The tail was already artificially low because the front main U/C wheel was sitting on a few cms of packing.

 

 

 

The engine appeared to be too high at the front indicated by the bubble on a level sitting on the top of the motor showing a bubble running towards the propellor - also on the digital level as out by 0.6 of a degree (about 5 mm of the bubble past the level line).

 

 

 

Needed to insert three penny washers under each top engine mount against the fire wall to reduce the error down to 0.1 of a degree high at the prop end of the motor.

 

This might reduce a bit after a few hours of engine use.

 

 

 

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The pics shown of the levels on the engine were all taken after inserting the three penny washers under each of the top engine mount bolts against the SS firewall.

 

 

 

According to the manual we are already on the limit of three for the number of washers inserted under an engine mount.

 

 

 

According to my measurements I need to replace the AN4-2A top firewall engine bolts with AN4-21A bolts as the bolts barely emerge from the lock nuts with three penny washers fitted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

05-06-2008

 

Removed both cowls.

 

 

 

Prepared top cowl for piano hinges by roughing up the area for attaching the piano hinges with rotating emery cloth, cleaning with acetone then priming with resin applied with a narrow paint brush.

 

 

 

The remaining resin was mixed with flock and applied in a thin layer to both hinges which were already drilled for pop riveting.

 

 

 

Five 3/32" CSK rivets were used on each hinge.

 

 

 

The cabin heater inlet was also flocked and pop riveted to the bottom cowl.

 

 

 

All the hinges were checked for excess flock and any extra in the hinge pin area was removed and then the top & bottom cowls were joined using the hinge pins. The combination was sat down with the top cowl on the bottom so that any excess flock would not leak into the pin area.

 

 

 

A fan heater was set up to keep the area warm and a record was kept of the time, temp and relative humidity as has been done on all the previous flocking or fibre-glassing sessions.

 

 

 

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A strip of fibreglass scrap was flocked to the inside of the bottom cowl to give a tiedown area for the cabin air intake tube and it was temporarily held down with SS self tappers.

 

 

 

The intake for the cabin warm air does not look good for efficient air intake. It may need some enhancement depending on air flow rate into the cabin.

 

 

 

As has been done with all previous flocking sessions a sample of the flock or resin was taken and put in a medicine measure to set prior to labelling and storage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

6-06-2008

 

Modified the fit of the neoprene around the air intake of the oil cooler to stop it jamming when the bottom cowl is fitted.

 

 

 

Assembled the metal cabin heater hot air valve.

 

 

 

As the butterfly would not seal in both modes completely it was set it up so that when hot air was turned off it had the better seal and returned virtually all the cabin muff air to the engine compartment.

 

 

 

When turned on it would send the bulk of cabin muff air to the cabin and leak a small amount of heated air back to the engine compartment.

 

 

Had to slot the screw holes in the butterfly to get it to fit.

 

Purchased a 1.625" (41 mm) hole saw to cut a hole through the firewall.

 

 

 

[Ross]

7-06-2008

 

Cut 41 mm hole in firewall with the hole saw as per new manual instructions and inserted the assembled cabin hot air valve after cleaning up the hole with a half round file.

 

 

 

Drilled a 1/8" hole for inserting a SS self tapper to stop the valve rotating in the firewall hole.

 

 

 

Drilled a 1/8" hole for Aluminium angle anchor for over centre spring for butterfly valve.

 

 

 

Pop riveted angle anchor in place with a 1/" pop rivet.

 

 

 

Drilled a hole about 5/16" for cable anchor end for hot air control cable.

 

 

 

Measured and cut inner and outer cable & cover for control cable allowing extra inner cable length to wrap around the brass pivot point.

 

 

 

Attached threaded anchoring end of cable to end of outer cable using Loctite 385.

 

 

 

Put some grooves in outer end to facilitate the loctite connection.

 

 

 

Threaded the cable with a nut and washer at the control knob in the cabin and and inner and outer nut on the threaded cable end.

 

 

 

The inner cable wire was passed through the brass connector and bent around it with hot air valve closed and the control knob pushed almost all the way in. A split pin was inserted into the inner end of the brass pin.

 

 

 

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Tried it out looks OK.

 

 

 

Still need to connect up scat hoses tomorrow maybe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

9-06-2008

 

Attached some aluminium saddles to the bottom cowl with flock to locate the air intake for cabin heater further away from the exhaust system.

 

 

 

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Added a sleeve to the intake of the air valve to make the connection to the scat tube more secure with the hose clamp.

 

 

 

Blocked superfluous access hole through firewall using AN3 bolt, two penny washers and a flat washer with a nyloc nut.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

10-06-2008

 

Replaced the cabin heater scat hose clamps with next size up; far easier to fit clamps in confined space.

 

 

 

Started to attach bottom cowl when visitor arrived who did not help or go home till almost dark!

 

 

 

Tried the trick of screwing one piece of scat hose into the other to make the combination longer. Seems to work well on the small bore scat tube that I tried. I do not plan to use this on the plane.

 

 

 

It needs to be rotated three or four times to screw it into the overlap which would make it difficult to use between two ends where the other end(s) could not be rotated.

 

 

 

The overlap could be made more secure with some super glue but might not even need the glue.

 

 

 

Longer engine mount bolts needed because of the extra spacers inserted between the top engine mounts and the firewall have not arrived yet.

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

12-06-2008

 

Removed the bottom cowl and proceeded to remove the previously stuck on strip and spare lugs by heating them with the hot air gun then prising them off with a small chisel.

 

 

 

Added another aluminium lug in a more suitable place for the cabin cold air inlet scat hose and used quick set araldite to attach it to the cowl.

 

 

 

Used a length of SS 2.3 mm diameter SS hinge pin to clean out piano hinges on cowls.

 

 

 

The wire was mounted in the chuck of an electric drill, the far end of the wire was flattened on one side to about half the diameter of the wire by removing metal from that side using a bench grinder.

 

 

 

The idea is to end up with a D shape on the end of the drill.

 

 

 

The end was also bent slightly outwards with a pair of pliars to give it more bite when inserted as a drill through the long hinges.

 

 

 

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Hand painted the door surrounds, hinge recesses and joggle for the cowls.

 

 

 

New engine bolts not here yet. As they are 2.125 " long they were probably not in stock in Australia.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

17-06-2008

 

I discovered a week or two ago that one of the door windows had a scratch right across it from the handle of the other door. So both door handles now have a piece of plastic tube over them to prevent this recurring.

 

I had another look today and the scratch has not gone away; it is still there in fact there were two of them. They must be multiplying.

 

So I have done about an hour of rubbing across the scratches with fibreglass colour polish using a soft rag and moving to a clean part of the rag as soon as the working part was clogged up which did not take long.

 

To check it out, cleaned most of the polish off and then applied some Plexus cleaner & polish to the scratched area. It was then rubbed in and polished off before having a good look with a neon light under the door to make the area more visible.

 

There is still a fair bit of dust on the bottom side of the plastic which is also standing out in the photo. The scratches are standing out much more in the photos than when viewed by eye only including other existing scratches which was not obvious in the camera viewfinder.

 

It is obvious from the photos that the exercise will need to be repeated maybe a couple of times although when viewed by eye only I was tempted to leave it alone.

 

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There is a big improvement from the initial untreated scratches which were not photographed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest brentc]

Ross, a MicroMesh will get that out. I've got one, barely used, when you're at a fly-in and I'm there I'll happily get rid of that for you!

 

 

[Ross]

Brent thanks for that information and your kind offer. I did not know about MicroMesh so have added some to my current order list. I have quite a few areas that could do with a good going over.

 

The current orders were stuffed up so I have been waiting for an order that was not placed - not Jabiru. I think it is all in hand now.

 

 

[Ross]

23-06-2008

 

Modified the carby heat control cable anchor and mounting to get a better angle on the cable and less friction. Also eliminated the outer cable from rubbing on the inside of the top cowl.

 

Started off by loosening the clamp desoldering the inner cable anchor pin and withdrawing it from the hollow anchor pin.

 

The cable was shortened by inserting it through the clamp until it operated most freely and cleared the top cowl.

 

Then the outer cable cover was marked before withdrawal from the clamp. The inner cable was retracted in the cabin and the outer cable cut on the mark with a cutting wheel mounted in the angle grinder before reassembling and soldering the cable into the pin.

 

The fibre block was cut so that the outer end under the clamp could be twisted slightly to improve the cable friction.

 

Care was taken to ensure the clamp was not applying friction to the inner cable.

 

The clack noise of the butterfly valve was a good sign that the valve was operating fully in both directions when operated from inside the cabin.

 

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The photos show that a better soldering job needs to be done on it and the cabin heater control cable.

 

A long bolt added to the flap quadrant as a limit stop was removed as being possibly dangerous in the cabin. The location was the lower empty 3/16" dia. hole in the quadrant above the pilot's seat.

 

Two of the plastic ties on the cold air intake for the cabin heater were replaced with SS tie wire. This should prevent possible failure of the replaced plastic ties due to heat from their proximity to the exhaust stack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

26-06-2008

 

4xAN4-21A bolts arrived today plus heat proof lock nuts (no plastic) plus 6xMetal lock nuts to suit AN3 bolts. AUD$69.

 

Replaced the top two AN4-20A engine mount to firewall bolts with NYLoc style nuts with AN4-21A bolts with metal heat proof nuts.

 

Checked out the engine thrust line. Plus 0.1 degree.

 

Resoldered the choke control wire connection.

 

Checked out and adjusted the choke cable stroke.

 

Adjusted the throttle stops in the cabin to allow the idle screw stop at the carby to work.

 

Resoldered the cabin heat cable connection.

 

Make sure cabin heat valve is seating in shut mode.

 

Resoldered the carby heat cable connection.

 

Make sure the carby heat valve seats in on and off positions.

 

 

[Ross]

27-06-2008

 

Thanks to Brentc for the info on the info on Micro Mesh from Micro Surface for repairing scratches etc.

 

The kit I bought was the most basic one at www.micro-surface.com and it arrived today.

 

The following is a list of the kit contents:-

 

It comes with a black rubbing block to wrap the wet and dry around and hold by hand.

 

Two pieces of fine linen for cleaning and polishing

 

Six pieces of wet and dry from 1500, 1800,2400,3600,4000 to 6000 grit.

 

These are mounted on a flexible rubberised backing and will withstand repeated use and washing.

 

[ATTACH]5941.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5942.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5943.vB[/ATTACH]

 

An instruction leaflet explaining each step of the process of eliminating scratches or other wear and tear.

 

A bottle of Micro Gloss for the final polish using the supplied cloths.

 

The 320 Grit sheet shown in the first pic is not supplied. They tell you to use 400 grit. I have a roll of 320 grit wet and dry.

 

 

The 400 grit sheet is used to completely eliminate scratches by rubbing across them until they are cut out.

 

 

 

Thus we ended up with a milky white opaque surface on my Jabiru window.

 

 

So the six sheets are successively used from coarse to the finest wet or dry to convert the opaque surface to a clear surface.

 

This is done by using successive sheets from the kit by rubbing out the the scratches from using the previous sheet. This will entail frequent cleaning of the abraded material.

 

I did it dry using an air compressor air gun to blow it out of each sheet and off the door window.

 

Each successive pass is done at right angles to the previous one a benefit of which is being able to decide if the marks from the previous sheet are gone.

 

Once all the sheets have been used the surface is cleaned with water and the supplied cloth which is then washed and used to wipe off the surface again.

 

Rinse the cloth again, wring out, wrap it around the rubbing block.

 

Apply a dime sized dollop of Micro Gloss from the plastic bottle and apply to about a square foot area (30 cm x 30 cm) using long straight strokes. You may need to add a bit more water to prolong the polishing. Keep going till it is virtually dry.

 

Once it dries it can be polished/removed with the other clean dry cloth.

 

The process is explained in more detail in the small supplied instruction leaflet.

 

 

 

So far I have only done one side of this door window and it definitely has dust on the other side and probably more scratches that may need repairing.

 

So the pics show that the deep scratches across the windows have gone but I really won't know if it is a reasonable job till I turn it over and have a go at the other side.

 

There are a number of other products advertised for this job and I am in no position to recommend any particular one over the other.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

28-06-2008

 

Did the other side of the door window with the http://www.micro-surface.com KR-70 kit up to using the Micro Gloss polish.

 

Still a bit rough so repeated the last three passes with the Micro mesh abrasive sheets then the fine cut with the Micro Gloss.

 

Finished off by using Plexus on both sides of the door window.

 

[ATTACH]5944.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5945.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5946.vB[/ATTACH]

 

Photos were taken through the door window of the plane with overhead neon lights as the only lighting.

 

Still some cloudiness showing up around the edges.

 

 

 

 

 

[Ross]

08-07-2008

 

The single 6' length of SS hinge pin arrived today taped to a piece of timber in a box long enough and with a cross section possibly large enough to house a Jabiru wooden propeller.

 

So mounted the cowls, ran my makeshift D drill made from hinge pin material through each pair of the combined hinges a couple of times and then inserted the hinge pins.

 

Sat the pilot door in place w/o mounting the hinges and had a go at masking up one window.

 

After discovering that I had not stripped off the backing strip from some double sided tape and was trying to stick some more tape to the backing strip which seemed remarkably uncooperative, I started again.

 

For the second attempt I used some narrower double sided foam tape on top of the wide tape (after removing it's shiny backing strip this time).

 

The narrower tape is easier to form around a curve rather than trying to cut a curve on a wide tape w/o damaging the window. You also get to have multiple attempts at the curve w/o having to cut a new piece of tape.

 

I think I might have to go a third time and only use the narrow double sided tape without the wide very thin stuff underneath which could have had the paper applied to it rather than another layer of tape. I will probably go and have a talk to my panel beater before I go much further.

 

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Pics are just a general shot of the a/c from the pilot side with one door sitting in place but not attached and the cowls in place with hinge pins inserted and most of the bottom cowl screws installed with Tinnerman washers in place.

 

The window pic shows the narrow tape on top of the wide tape with brown paper on top of the narrow tape.