Ross Posted March 7, 2008 Author Posted March 7, 2008 07-03-2008 Scraped the microballs off level with the surrounding window or fibreglass material late last night which left a few cavities that had not been filled adequately. I thought I had taken photos at this stage - must have gone to bed instead. Mixed another batch of microballs more liquid this time and applied with a 25 mm wide paintbrush. It was fairly stringy but tended to level or smooth out slightly once it was left alone. [ATTACH]5152.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5153.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5154.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5155.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5156.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5157.vB[/ATTACH] I will scrape it off again and smooth up with sandpaper - any roughness from cavities left should fill with the bogging undercoat. Removed the engine air ducts and cut the 25 mm holes at the front for cooling the crankcase. [ATTACH]5158.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5159.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5160.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5161.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5162.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5163.vB[/ATTACH] Also cut and drilled out some pieces of stainless steel to match the mounting position of the ducts on the tappet covers. Araldited them to the inside of the ducts hopefully to dissipate the heat from the engine onto the fibreglass more slowly than direct contact with the aluminium. I shall see what happens. All the failed Jabiru ducts I have seen seem to fail where they are attached to the tappet covers due to overheating going by the colour of the surrounding fibreglass. Some hours later after the araldite set, removed the clamps and peel cloth and reattached one of the ducts to the motor tappet covers. [ATTACH]5168.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5169.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5170.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5171.vB[/ATTACH]
Ross Posted March 8, 2008 Author Posted March 8, 2008 08-03-2008 Scraped the windows and windscreen again. Still need s some filling but the bogging undercoat paint should do the job. [ATTACH]5181.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5182.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5183.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5184.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5185.vB[/ATTACH] Had a visit from Eric & Steph. Eric flew his J230 kit built plane today at Narrandera so he is happy. Eric gave me a couple of switch guards which I will use on the Ign of the J160 but I need some red paint. Pic shows two of the guards plus the Jabiru supplied version. [ATTACH]5186.vB[/ATTACH] Refitted cooling air ducts with stainless inserts and had to drill out the bolt holes to clear excessive epoxy from the holes. Visitors from Narrandera MAC, Barry & Robert were welcomed as well with a couple of beers after they had a look at the progress. Basically they said rig it and fly it after the beers - I wish.
Ross Posted March 11, 2008 Author Posted March 11, 2008 11-03-2008 Sanded the passenger side door frame and cleaned with acetone. Drilled the striker plate, countersunk and drilled door frame to match. Araldited and inserted self tappers into the the striker plate on the door frame. [ATTACH]5205.vB[/ATTACH] Applied undercoat to the door frame. As Captain said, the first door is different to the next one - in my situation, the hole for the door catch needs to be much nearer the edge than was the case for the other door and I might still have to bend the door after heating it to improve the fit. --------------------------------------------------------- Today Warren moved his Sonex elevator from the bench to the stand ready for mounting. [ATTACH]5206.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5207.vB[/ATTACH] Sounds like he is mounting the turtle deck tomorrow morning.
Captain Posted March 11, 2008 Posted March 11, 2008 You are going well Ross. Looks like you are about at the stage where you just need to keep marching from 1 job to the next, to save "hitting the wall". What you say about the doors is one of the biggest lessons I learnt (or didn't fully appreciate) when I took on my kit, and that was that everything is included, but all items need to be "fitted", and that can take a long time if you go chasing a better and better result. Keep up the posts. It's good fun to watch over your shoulder. Best regards Geoff
Ross Posted March 12, 2008 Author Posted March 12, 2008 12-03-2008 Hi Geoff - thanks for the encouragement. I guess I am at the stage where it seems to be almost finished but there is still an everlasting list of small jobs to be done. Scraped and stripped all the paint off the pilot side door frame. Then sanded scraped again, then sanded, clean with air & acetone and applied a coat of undercoat enamel.. Sanded and cleaned with acetone the passenger side door frame already undercoated. Applied a second undercoat to the passenger door frame. [ATTACH]5209.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5210.vB[/ATTACH] Now waiting on some parts but still plenty to do. Picked up a roll of Brown Kraft paper 50 metres long from the local panel beater for $20 (I have been a good customer of theirs lately!) to use for masking windows etc. in conjunction with plastic masking material as well. [ATTACH]5219.vB[/ATTACH] They use the brown paper on a dispenser that automatically applies adhesive plastic strip down one side. They use it a lot when painting small components on the car to mask nearby components where they don't want any over-spray. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Actually this morning first up, went around to Warren's place to assist with the turtle deck on his Sonex. (My job mainly was to carry & hold bits). Managed to get Warren and his wife Betty in the pics. He already had all components ready to go. Note Warren looking at the supplied plans. The plan scale is 1:1 (full size mostly) Carted it out to the lawn, lifted tail end to make it easier to drill. Inserted turtle deck on one side lined it up and drilled then inserted Clecos. Once sufficient Clecos were inserted, turned it over and did the passenger side. The holes will all be drilled out to suit the rivets, deburred etc. [ATTACH]5211.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5212.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5213.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5214.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5215.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5216.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5217.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5218.vB[/ATTACH] Inserting the turtle deck turned out to be far easier than we expected. This was due to the excellent quality of workmanship, especially the accuracy of placement of drill holes and sizes of components that Warren has manufactured and used in his machine.
Ross Posted March 13, 2008 Author Posted March 13, 2008 13-03-2008 Undercoated the door frames again after doing some filling with Nitrocellulose filler, then sanding. They are starting to look respectable. [ATTACH]5223.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5224.vB[/ATTACH] Took out the self tappers in the door strikers and ground them off to about 11 mm length overall so that they do not protrude through the fibreglass to injure somebody. Had to heat them with the hot air gun as they had been set in araldite. [ATTACH]5221.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5222.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5249.vB[/ATTACH] Fitted the cover in the centre console on the passenger side. Used retained nuts in the console and painted the cover with "Stone" pressure pack then with clear acrylic. [ATTACH]5220.vB[/ATTACH] Fitted the safety guards around the two grounding ignition switches.
Ross Posted March 14, 2008 Author Posted March 14, 2008 14-03-2008 Removed the bottom engine cowl and removed some material off the oil cooler intake so that there was no danger of rubbing on the oil cooler. Added two rubber strips around the oil cooler intake to match the oil cooler. Used rivets and washers to secure the strip to the intake on the bottom cowl. [ATTACH]5254.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5255.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5256.vB[/ATTACH] The strips may need a bit more trimming on reattaching to the aircraft.
Ross Posted March 17, 2008 Author Posted March 17, 2008 16-17-03-2008 Sunday: Moved the oil overflow vent hose sideways to stop it blowing over the exhaust pipe. The overflow from the fuel pump is also vented along side the oil vent hose. Self tappers were inserted in the previous holes for the hose clamp. [ATTACH]5269.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5270.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5271.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5272.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5273.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5274.vB[/ATTACH] The camera angle makes it appear to be over the exhaust pipe - it is to one side. Went to Leeton Aviators Club meeting at Brobenah Airstrip for meeting and meal. Monday: Received the door dowels from Jabiru. Eventually managed to assemble them both. Chopped up one O-ring in the process and had to get a replacement in town. They rely on an o-ring and a groove in the dowel to provide the friction to hold them in the locked position and the friction to hold the dowel in the unlocked position. The small circlip prevents the dowel being pulled right out when it is disengaged to open or close the door. [ATTACH]5275.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5276.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5277.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5278.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5279.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5280.vB[/ATTACH] Now I have to work out where to put them on top of the doors. My #14 manual shows the early type so I will probably end up mounting them in the same distance from the door corner.
biggles Posted March 19, 2008 Posted March 19, 2008 Ross Ross , For what it's worth , this is where/how mine are installed . If the attachments are missing , send me your email address Regards Bob[ATTACH][ATTACH]5283.vB[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
Ross Posted March 19, 2008 Author Posted March 19, 2008 Thanks for that Biggles. I should say that if I had seen the Jabiru web site for the new detail on mounting the J230 windscreen earlier it would have been helpful in producing a neater installation and keeping the crud off the J160 windscreen and windows during installation.
Ross Posted March 20, 2008 Author Posted March 20, 2008 20-03-2008 Today around 13:00 I heard a few planes flying near our area heading for Narromine also some weather warnings with this area experiencing a variety of weather from full overcast then towering Cumulus (no local lightning), calm winds and gusty winds. We had about six drops of rain. By the time I walked outside to have a look it had stopped and evaporated off the concrete but left dried mud on the car windscreen! 22:30 At the moment over Leeton we have clear skies with bright moonlight and a very light south westerly breeze. There is a layer of cloud low on the North West horizon (towards Dubbo and Narromine). Another frontal cloud is approaching from the South West and at the moment looks a bit thicker than the patchy one now crossing Narromine on the radar which seems to be leaving some light rain in its wake. We had a visitor yesterday. I managed to get quite a few pics before he did his take off checks. [ATTACH]5284.vB[/ATTACH] Fitted the covers over the door handles today. They were slotted to match the handles then used as a template to mark the door. The the door was cut out inside the template mark and sanded to remove the gel coat from the join area. Then both parts were cleaned with acetone, araldite applied to both and the handle cover inserted and held down with SS self tappers. [ATTACH]5285.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5286.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5287.vB[/ATTACH] They will need some filling with micro-balls and then sanding to smooth them up. Only one was ready to remove the screws when I took the second pic.
Ross Posted March 21, 2008 Author Posted March 21, 2008 21-.3-2008 Well at least I was able to hear some of the RAA and GA people heading for Narromine and I can sit in the J160 and go Brrm,,,Brrm. Commiserations to the Old bold pilot.:confused: He will live to see another Flyin! :thumb_up: If he had been living at Leeton he could probably have flown up behind the weather. Today did more on the door catch covers. Ground off the edges and filled the holes with araldite and put a strip over the one where I cut the slot too wide due to getting it in the wrong place. The covers had to be trimmed on one side because of their proximity to the door windows. More smoothing up later. [ATTACH]5290.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5291.vB[/ATTACH] Started on the dowel for the pilot side top of door. I think I moved it back a bit further than Bob's example as I did not want a hole through the strap from the wing connection down to the engine mount. So my hole is behind the wing connection which seems to be better for my door stability. As the door is not as wide as the door frame, the dowel was put as far inboard on the door as possible. The matching hole in the receiving door frame frame was still not centred when the door was flush with the fuselage but ended up on the outside of the centre of the door frame despite the dowel position. The dowels are a bit hard to pull out so I think the knob on the bottom needs enlarging. I don't think that my wife would be able to disengage them using the current knob size. [ATTACH]5292.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5293.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5294.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5295.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5296.vB[/ATTACH] In these pics the door handle had to be mounted on the curved part of the door and is not Araldited into position yet only held by two self tappers.
Ross Posted March 24, 2008 Author Posted March 24, 2008 23-24-03-2008 Did a little cleaning up of the door windows on Sunday and more today. The first thing I did was scrape the narrow scratches lightly to make the scratches disappear into a larger cloudy area. To do this sharpened the knife I was using then ran the knife edge over the stone to put a blunt face with no burrs on the edge so you end up with probably about an 80 degree included angle on each side of the edge on the knife rather than about a sharp 10 or 15 degree included angle sharp edge. The fibreglass polish seems to work fine followed by the Plexus but you have to keep adding the fibreglass polish to a new bit of rag which I apply with one finger and a fair bit of pressure on each of the cloudy scraped areas. Fitted the dowel to the passenger door and the handle next to it. Ground the bases of both handles to match the curve of the door frame. Again the dowel had to be fitted as far out on the door as possible so that the matching hole was inboard on the door frame. [ATTACH]5317.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5318.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5319.vB[/ATTACH] We had 21 mm of glorious rain today in a passing thunderstorm. That should be just right for the start of our predominately winter growing native pastures in this area but of course will need plenty of follow up rain in a week or two. [ATTACH]5320.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5321.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5322.vB[/ATTACH]
Ross Posted March 29, 2008 Author Posted March 29, 2008 29-03-2008 Installed door locks on RHS & LHS of fuselage. The position of the locks was marked in pencil close to the door catch bolt allowing for the rotation of the lock in the slot. The elongated hole was drilled and filed out to fit the lock barrel cage so that the tab would be at right angles to the frame when in the locked position. The distance of the arm was measured and a slot cut in the door frame to match and trimmed up to clear the arm when in the locked position. A corresponding slot was marked on the door itself and cut out with the slotting tool on the Dremel with the door flush with the fuselage. [ATTACH]5384.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5385.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5386.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5387.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5388.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5389.vB[/ATTACH]
Ross Posted April 1, 2008 Author Posted April 1, 2008 1-04-2008 Just mucked it up again. Did the whole post and quit without saving it . Fire-ban ended yesterday so was able to get rid of some large cardboard boxes today from the garage to give a bit more room to move. Due to forecast strong winds for tomorrow there is a total fire ban tomorrow. Lifted the front of the AC onto a piece of timber to lower the tail so that it would clear the ceiling. Used a saw horse with a piece of wide soft wood screwed to it to raise its height a few inches to support the cabin just in front of the main UC just to the rear of the strut lugs just below the cabin doors. The balance point turned out to be still forward of this location with the engine fitted and elevator not fitted so the main UC could be safely removed without fear of the tail falling on the ground. The main UC wheels are just clearing the floor which is not really apparent in the photos. [ATTACH]5445.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5446.vB[/ATTACH] So the main UC gear can be removed and prepared for epoxying the aluminium clamp to the fibreglass legs.
Ross Posted April 2, 2008 Author Posted April 2, 2008 2-04-2008 Today started to flock the UC clamps to the UC legs. I had just got started when there was a lot of wind noise outside. So opened the shed door to see an approaching dust storm (see rain photos from the same door a few days ago). [ATTACH]5450.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5451.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5452.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5453.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5454.vB[/ATTACH] It was fairly noisy but I heard the phone ring it was the next door neighbour telling me the roof had blown off our old unoccupied cottage about 50 metres from our house but it still had some gear in it that was to be removed on Friday. The shed on the ground was the result of a previous wind storm just after we first moved in many years ago. [ATTACH]5455.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5456.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5457.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5458.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5459.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5460.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5461.vB[/ATTACH] The roof had flown off and landed on the old still live power line breaking it then dispersed itself around the paddock. One wire of the live power line was hanging low across the public road. I also had a makeshift pool heater with poly pipe laying on old gal sheets. It had also been picked up and spread around. [ATTACH]5462.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5463.vB[/ATTACH] Not long after the roof came off the wind and dust returned and continued for some hours with a smattering of rain that did not seem to clear the dust but put a lot of mud on the vehicles. Work had been going on the UC during the above interruptions followed by a few long reds. Removed the LHS UC leg and marked it on the underside for the clamp location. Removed the paint with rotary emery cloth and cleaned the aluminium clamp. Then the fibreglass leg and the aluminium clamp were cleaned up with acetone and then a layer of epoxy brushed on both. A heavy bead of flock was applied to the clamp and it was reassembled on the AC with the port main UC leg. [ATTACH]5464.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5465.vB[/ATTACH]
Ross Posted April 3, 2008 Author Posted April 3, 2008 3-04-2008 Completed the flocking of the starboard main UC clamp to the UC leg with similar procedure to that used on the port UC leg clamp done yesterday. [ATTACH]5466.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5467.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5468.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5469.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5470.vB[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]5471.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5472.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5473.vB[/ATTACH] The last pic shows that the port main UC leg inboard bolt needs to be tightened up. It may need a few washers to pack it up or a shorter bolt. As well as that the starboard inboard bolt might be a bit too tight. The finish of the port side clamp flock was not as neat as the starboard clamp flock done today due to the interruptions during the job yesterday. It can probably be made more presentable with some selective filing and sanding.
Ross Posted April 4, 2008 Author Posted April 4, 2008 4-04-2008 The flocked clamps done yesterday had not cured during the night due to cold temps so I have set the heater up today to get them cured. Shall see what happens. See what happened below at 23:08 hrs. Decided the door hinge bolts holding the hinges to the fuselage were a bit light on considering that Jabiru have changed the hinges considerably since my kit #14 and I had busted a 5 mm SS cap screw when attaching one door. The dia of a 5 mm 1 mm pitch metric SS bolt is pretty small so a 6 mm bolt is a big increase in minimum cross sectional area. my kit had 5 mm capscrews holding the hinges to the fuselage so there was just enough room to change the original 5 mm 1 mm pitch metric SS cap screws to 6 mm 1 mm pitch SS hex head bolts. So drilled the hinges to 5 mm (the tapping drill size for 6 mm 1 mm pitch bolts ) and tapped them to 6 mm 1 mm pitch thread and bought 6 mm 1 mm pitch metric SS bolts and SS washers to match. [ATTACH]5474.vB[/ATTACH] Pic shows the new bolts and the freshly tapped hinges to 6 mm 1 mm pitch SS. The pic shows the replacement 6 mm bolts & washers as well as a 5 mm 1 mm pitch SS Hex bolt in the pic although the supplied bolts were capscrews 5 mm 1 mm pitch cap screws not shown in the pic. 23:08 hrs :ah_oh: Just figured out why the second leg clamp did not cure - instead of adding 3 parts resin plus 1 part hardner I had added one more part resin instead of hardner. So have turned off the heater and tomorrow I will remove the leg and clamp, clean off the mixed resin and flock and clean it with acetone. Then will mix up some resin plus hardner apply it to the clamp and leg then mix the epoxy with flock apply it to the clamp and reinstall it.
Ross Posted April 6, 2008 Author Posted April 6, 2008 5-04-2008 This time I used 3 parts resin + 1 part hardner for making the epoxy mix. Removed the starboard main UC leg clamp and removed the resin from the clamp and the leg. After rubbing dry with a rag then used acetone to clean up both the clamp and the UC leg clamp area. Re-waxed the bolts to stop adhesion of epoxy. Applied epoxy with a brush to the clamp and the leg clamp area. Mixed flock with the epoxy to give a fairly stiff mixture so that it would not fall off the underside of the leg.. Applied a stiff thick bead of flock to the inside of the Aluminium clamp. Re-assembled the clamp to the UC leg and tightened up the clamp bolts. Made sure the clamp had a fillet of flock on each side from the underside of the clamp to the UC leg. Set up a fan heater to flow warm air onto the clamp area. Checked the clamp leg at about 10:30 pm after going out to see that the flock was cured hard - a few more days had been wasted, but getting closer! Ordered some AN6 matching washers from the USA.
Ross Posted April 9, 2008 Author Posted April 9, 2008 9-04-2008 Checked all main UC bolts for adequate grip and enough correct threads protruding from the top of the nut. Added or removed washers as required. One left behind shown up in one pic behind the passenger seat. One of my clamp bolts needed to be substantially shorter than its companion. The original AN5 bolt sizes needed to be all different lengths so I wrote the detail onto the seats before the UC bolt change of size. The new bolts are all probably one or two sizes longer so their details are written in the construction manual with a rough sketch showing their locations. As the manual implied the needed lengths were not as specified and even for the original diameter bolts I had order different length bolts. Both inboard ends of the main UC legs were done up so that the rubber grommet ended up touching the floor of the cabin to prevent chattering and shock loading of the legs and bolt mounting areas. [ATTACH]5532.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5533.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5534.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5535.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5536.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5537.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5538.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5539.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5540.vB[/ATTACH] The recess for the UC legs were actually undercoated and top coated before the legs were mounted. This area will also be covered by a flat fibreglass sheet fairing. Went up the street to get some "Dot 5" brake fluid. None in Leeton and ordered some and the price is $90 for 500 ml.
Guest AusDarren Posted April 9, 2008 Posted April 9, 2008 Ross was that a 2 person Job? Looks like it would be rather awkward to hold one side while tensioning up the other. does look to be a rather fiddly stage. Enjoying your detailed commentary, thanks very much. Regards, AusDarren
Ross Posted April 19, 2008 Author Posted April 19, 2008 20-04-2008 Managed to do it as one person job. An upside down plastic milk crate is the secret of getting the posterior at the right height. Then you can use one hand on top with a ratchet socket and one underneath with a good fit ring spanner as far as the centre bolt. I also have a open end/ratchet ring spanner which is very handy but relatively expensive. My daughter also gave me a ratchet socket holder that has a ratchet handle as well as a ratchet head. So you can also spin the handle to do up a nut w/o moving the handle like you would do with an ordinary ring spanner. It turns out that Dot 5 brake fluid has a Silicone content which would have to be a problem around epoxy fibreglass. Silicone is mentioned quite specifically in my J160 Jabiru constructor's manual. Any comments please!!! A local suggested that I use auto transmission fluid or hydraulic fluid as used in many grain header's hydraulic systems.
Ross Posted April 24, 2008 Author Posted April 24, 2008 24-04-2008 Managed to get a severe chest infection last week and ended up in hospital for most of last week due to my stupidity in not wearing a face mask while doing some drilling. Today did a bit with Warren interrupting his Sonex project. We used his milling machine to cut some 2 mm deep channels in the back of the outside aluminium disk brake pad holders for my J160. This made it possible to anchor a heat proof nut there and make it easier to install and service the brake pads which the current design of the disk brake achieves. It will also slightly increase the gap between the nut and the inner side of the aluminium rim of the main UC wheel. Brought the parts home and used some 2 part Loctite 3805 tolerant to 150 degrees C to stick the nut to the back of the channel. Held the nut in tension against the Loctite 3805 until it set which was proved by removing the bolts from the nuts with a ring spanner. It is very messy because the Loctite was very dry and extremely hard to get out of the tube but had the advantage that none of it ended up on the thread of the bolts used to keep the tension on the nut. [ATTACH]5590.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5591.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5592.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5593.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5594.vB[/ATTACH] The wheel in the pic is not actually touching the floor and therefore has no load on the UC leg. Fitted the new style sub axle which has an aluminium washer against the inner wheel bearing to the pilot side UC leg. Washers were temporarily used as spacers for the approximate toe-in and camber adjustment until the full load of paint wings and fuel etc are added to the aircraft to see where the UC will end up. I noted that the new stub axle is not hollow like the original axle for its full length which might have implications for its reliability. It is drilled for four AN5 bolts to connect to the UC leg instead of the original AN4 bolts. Some pics of Warrens Sonex are included here a bit behind where he is actually up to as he is now well into doing the cockpit panels-lots of new holes to be drilled and drilled again, parts to be manufactured and riveted. [ATTACH]5595.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5596.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5597.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5598.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5599.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5600.vB[/ATTACH] Work is stopped until after the Brobenah (Leeton) fly-in.
Ross Posted May 1, 2008 Author Posted May 1, 2008 01-05-2008 Well the Brobenah fly at Leeton in is over with a reasonable attendance despite the weather and the Temora circus. I am waiting on some material from Bundaberg which I ordered in the middle of last week. A dial indicater with magnetic base ordered from interstate turned up earlier in the week . Today I modified it by adding a longer arm so that it could be mounted on the front UC leg of the J160 to check out the prop layup. I bit early yet for this job, supposed to be after paint. I could not find any bright 16 mm dia steel in Leeton so had to settle for black 16 mm with mill scale so Warren cleaned it up on his lathe and I made a clamp for the rod and assembled the modified parts to make it work. I discovered that the magnetic base had a shallow 10 mm 1.5 pitch coarse threaded hole in a box of Aluminium and managed to strip part of that thread. Loctite is a fairly useful material. [ATTACH]5608.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5609.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5610.vB[/ATTACH] The extended leg og the main support shaft allows for a bit of counterbalance to the weight of the shaft and the dial gauge. Later on I will probably cut off the head of the fully threaded SS bolt and make it a permanent fixture on the magnetic base.
Deskpilot Posted May 1, 2008 Posted May 1, 2008 Ah, takes me back to my days as a Metrologist (metrology = science of measurement) Happy days.
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