Morgan Aero Works Expanding

[Garry Morgan]

Normally this time of year is very slow, but we have two aircraft on order and props ,canopys, and repair work has us going full on. The room has been getting a problem for some time, so I am in the process of getting an off site buildings for Devolement work a lot of that will be on motor gliders of all types, from a cheap car topper plan and conponet offer to extended 15m wing to the Cheetah/ Sierra, and touring motor gliders. Also the MK 2 Cougar at this stage.

 

 

[Guernsey]

Good to see you still in business and expanding Gary. .

 

Alan Marriette.

 

 

[kgwilson]

Great news. Congratulations Garry.

 

 

[foxworker]

Wish you were up here in Brissy, would love to work in your company.

 

 

[altifly]

well,

 

I found it's a pity that to have some information on your kits I have to contact some of your costumers... that's a bad start , reminds me a kit that I bought and never had complete ...

 

Not all people asking it will be a costumer , but if you don't even take 2 minutes to answer some basics it's not a good way to do.

 

Or maybe put a kit description on the website...

 

Wanted to have some informations on Cheetah , like composition of kit , tools needed (need to cut plates? bend some?) , and real time expected to complete it (not including finitions/engine mount)

 

Is it the same 10 minutes wing removal system than sierra?

 

I learnt that manual was not well done , was there any improvement lately?

 

thanks

 

 

[Garry Morgan]

Hi Aitifly,

 

I dont know if you have contacted me, but I send many photos of construction so you get a good idea of what is required to built the kit. And answer all questions asked, and ask people, to ask any questions they may have. I also send a list of components so one can see what you get, parts, rivets,bolts. etc. To build anything you will need to cut bend, rivet bolt, and measure, and some know how to make things work.

 

The manual in the early kits where not good, these where up dated until they where rewritten. This time my wife has rewritten them so any one can understand them ( I know what I mean, but I didnt get down on paper in a way a non hands on person would understand.) she is a house wife and she understands the manual. There is a disk of photos with the kit to reference to. If you want information contact me.

 

 

[altifly]

Thank you for answer,

 

I saw all these build logs , thanks to builders to share it , it's really nice.

 

But it's not detailled what tools and skills are need : for instance , cutting aluminium sheet (for Cheetah) , is it better with scissors? jigsaw? I know that sheet which are not CNC pre-cut are difficult to make clean borders...

 

gussets and bars to are to cut? bending leading edge using wood patterns to fabricate takes a lot of time .. is there a possibility to have pre-cut/pre bens hardware (like SONEX )

 

and my last question for today ;) : on Cheetah (only one that can be registered as ultralight in my country) , is it possible to remove wings alone in 10 minutes?

 

 

[batesey]

Hi Altifly,

 

 

 

I hope the following info helps clear up a few things concerning building one of Garry's planes.

 

I am building a Sierra 100 Taildragger. I know most of your questions are focused on the Cheetah, but the similarities between the two aircraft are not that far apart from one another.

 

 

 

I'll start by providing a list of tools that I'd acquired in preparation for the build; this list will also include tools purchased during the building process.

 

Not all of the following tools are deemed absolutely necessary, but some of them sure did make light work of what some may call arduous tasks.

 

 

 

Drills:

 

-Cordless Drill

 

-Powered Drill

 

-Drill Press

 

-Drill Bits ranging in various sizes (many, many drill bits )

 

-Right Angle Drill attachment

 

 

 

Air Tools:

 

-Air Compressor (with a long hose)

 

-Pneumatic Rivet Gun (for Pop Rivets)

 

-Pneumatic Rivet Hammer (for Solid Rivets)

 

-Heavy Steel Bucking Bar (for Solid Rivets)

 

 

 

Metalwork Specific Tools:

 

-Hand Rivet Puller

 

-Cleco Fasteners (3/32", 1/8", 5/32" & 3/16") You are going to need about 250 1/8" Clecos, this is the most used Rivet size. I think I had more actually.

 

-Cleco Pliers

 

-Metal Shears (12inch Straight cut...not the serrated kind!)

 

-Metal Files (various Course, Fine, Long, Short, Flat, Round...)

 

 

 

Hand Tools:

 

-Spanner and Socket set (Imperial Units)

 

-Screw Drivers

 

-Hammer

 

-Pliers (wide grip and pointy nose)

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

-Belt Sander (hand)

 

-Bench-top Disc Sander/Belt Sander (Linisher)

 

-Grinder with cut-off discs

 

-Jigsaw (with a range of Metal Cutting Blades)

 

-Compound Saw

 

-Dremel (for small and fiddly cutting and sanding tasks)

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

-Metal Rulers (Long and Short) with imperial and metric units

 

-Right Angle Ruler

 

-Measuring Tape

 

-Spirit Level

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

-C Clamps

 

-F Clamps

 

-Quick Grip Clamps

 

-Bar Clamps

 

-Spring Clamps (a cheap range of various sizes)

 

-Ratchet Tie-down Straps

 

-Small kitchen scales (to measure composite resins)

 

-Vacuum Cleaner

 

 

 

Others Bits and Pieces:

 

-Sharpie Markers (red, green, blue black...thin point)

 

-Mixing Cups

 

-Wooden Stirrers

 

-Rubber Gloves

 

-Masking Tape

 

-Sand Paper (for metal & various grits)

 

-Protective Eyeware

 

 

 

The list for this section could go on a bit, but I think you get the idea. If I have left anything out I'll update it with another post

 

 

 

I also found it really useful to have a computer in the garage. This made it easy to reference Garry's supplied images and DVD Video without having to move away from the work bench.

 

 

 

In my next post, I'll try to give you some more complete info about the kit itself and what the builder can expect to receive.

 

I'll also upload a couple of pictures from when I picked up my kit...those images along with my description should provide you with enough info on what is prefabricated by Morgan Aeroworks and what duties the builder is expected to perform.

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Toby

 

 

[altifly]

This topic is becoming very interesting thank you Toby :)

 

This is not what one may call an "advanced kit" (closer actually to raw material...) that's why I'm a little suspicious with the "400 hours" announced when some CNC cut , prepierced kits will require 600h ...

 

 

[batesey]

Altifly,

 

 

 

Further to my previous post, here is the info related to the Kit.

 

 

 

First let me start by saying...this is NOT a CNC pre-cut, pre-drilled, pre-bent Aircraft Kit. There are however a fair few pre-made parts and I'll run through them shortly.

 

Below are the pictures of my Kit as I picked it up:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What the pictures above show is what Garry calls the basic Airframe Kit. My Kit included a few optional extras. I'll list them below to make it clearer.

 

The pictures don't show the engine, engine mount or instruments. The firewall forward package will be ordered at a later time, when the airframe is complete.

 

 

Kit Contents:

 

-Aircraft Plans

 

-Aircraft Construction Manual

 

-Aircraft Construction Photos

 

-Aircraft Construction DVD Video

 

-All AN Aircraft grade Bolts, Washers, Nuts & Fittings

 

-Plywood for floorboard and various other applications

 

-Aircraft Grade Sheet Metal (various thicknesses)

 

-Aluminium square section for fuselage

 

-The Logerons are marked and measured at the factory for easy install of the main spar carry-through and various other components)

 

-The Lower Longerons are also Pre-Bent at the factory to give the desired fuselage shape

 

-Aluminium square section for fuselage Uprights and Diagonals (Pre-cut to length)

 

-Aluminium Plate for main spar (marked)

 

-Aluminium Angle section for Main Spars

 

-Aluminium Round Section for Wing Drag Spar

 

-Chromoly Steel Tube reinforcement insert for Wing Drag Spar

 

-Aluminium Round Section for Canopy Frame

 

-Pre-Bent Trailing edges for main control surfaces (Ailerons, Flaps, Elevator)

 

-Pre-Bent Aileron Hinge Section

 

-Aluminium Round Section Tailplane slip on Spars

 

-Welded Steel Main Frame / Spar carry-through

 

-Stainless or Colorbond Firewall Sheet metal

 

-Steel fin post (Pre-bent)

 

-Main Spar sheer web (Pre-Cut and Marked)

 

-Chromoly Steel Tube Tailplane carry through Spar

 

-Fitted Nylon Tailplane Bushings

 

-Pre-Made and Welded Tailplane Mounts

 

-Pre-Made and Welded Tailplane Control Horn

 

-Pre-Made and Welded Dual Control sticks (Optional Extra)

 

-Pre-Made and Welded Engine Mount Fuselage Pins (these are the pins that attach the engine mount to the aircraft)

 

-Pre-Made and Welded Rudder Pedals

 

-Nylon blocks for Rudder Pedals

 

-Bowden Cables (Ailerons & Elevator)

 

-Stainless Steel Cable (Rudder Control)

 

-Nylon Rudder Control Guides

 

-Elevator Trim Wheel and associated bungee cords

 

-Pre-Made Aileron Mass Balance Arms (weighted)

 

-Wheels

 

-Axles

 

-Tires

 

-Disc Brakes

 

-All Pop Rivets (various sizes and in generous quantities)

 

-All Solid Rivets

 

-Hinges for Ailerons

 

-Fuel Tank drains and Fittings

 

-Composite Resins

 

 

Pre-Made Parts:

 

-Engine Cowling (Top and Bottom halves)

 

-Composite Seat Bases

 

-Composite Undercarriage Main Gear

 

-Composite Wing Tips - Large Finned Version (Optional Extra)

 

-Blown Canopy (Optional Extra)

 

-Composite Wing Ribs

 

-Composite Tailplane Roots

 

-Composite Tailplane Ribs

 

-Composite Tailplane Tips

 

-Composite Instrument Panel

 

-Composite Wheel Spats (can't remember if they were an optional extra)

 

-Composite Fuel Tank and Baffles

 

-Composite NACA Air Vents

 

-Air Vent nozzles (mounted in cockpit)

 

 

 

I think that's about it...I'm sure that I have forgotten a few small things here or there. That been said, there has not been a time during my build where I have had to ask Garry for something extra...everything required to get my plane to where it is today, was in the kit. Once again though, if I read through this post later and find I have left out any info that is needed, I'll update it in another post.

 

 

 

Here is a couple of pics to show how the above Kit Contents now looks.

 

 

 

 

I'll do my best at another time to address some of your other questions concerning the building of the kit.

 

Hope the info has been helpful.

 

Cheers,

 

Toby

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[batesey]

This topic is becoming very interesting thank you Toby :)This is not what one may call an "advanced kit" (closer actually to raw material...) that's why I'm a little suspicious with the "400 hours" announced when some CNC cut , prepierced kits will require 600h ...

Hi Altifly,

 

Unfortunately I'm not able to give you a really accurate number of hours for the total build time at the moment. I have not updated my blog in quite some time (years). On my blog I have a running counter of the time taken so far. I have kept an accurate diary of the entire build process so far, with some 3000 pictures to document (in detail) the entire process. I really need to get a move on with updating the blog. If I find the time I'll see if I can get a rough estimate of the hours taken to get the plane to where she stands now.

 

 

[Garry Morgan]

Altifly, Batesey is the person in Germany I told you about who will be handling the aircraft in your domain in the light weight area.

 

 

[altifly]

Hello Mr Morgan , Hello Toby,

 

sorry for answering late , you both added very specific answers to my questions. But putting here, I hope they can be usefull for most prospective builders..

 

My experience in building is poor , but more by lack of time so far. I failed to really start a bradley aerobat kit , although from what I know it was one of the only complete ones ever shipped ... a friend bought it for just a few pennies and is soon finishing it

 

So beeing realistic if I decide to go for a Cheetah it will be a (very)advanced kit

 

One last thing I may want to know , because it was one of the main things that made me interest in this aircraft better than a few others : ease to remove wings. Is it for cheetah the same than for Sierra? really doable alone? MCR (dynaero) is also doing it but Ultralight price is just too much .. and no-UL just too dangerous (too many accidents , stall -60kts! -behaviour is crazy)

 

the 40kgs of differrence are du to some metal skins replace by cover ? (was even considering oratex cover , no paint to gain 2-3 more kgs) In europe only Cheetah version is ok for UL registration

 

thank you very much

 

 

[batesey]

Hi Altifly,

 

 

 

I can only tell you from my experiences with the Sierra, but having seen many pictures of the cheetah's construction, and from speaking with a couple of the cheetah builders, there is nothing that the novice builder won't be able to do. I'm pretty sure Garry can also pre-build the wing spars, reducing time and complexity for the build. Many have purchased Garry's kits because of simple though process that went into the aircraft design and the ease of the build. Now granted, there are some things that might set you back a little until you get to grips with a certain tool or technique, but that's what Garry and the rest of the builders that you will have contact with are there for...to help :-)

 

 

 

The cheetah uses fabric (like Ceconite) for the lower half of the fuselage, tailplane, rudder and the back half of the wings. The 40 or so kilo difference comes from a few things...most of that weight would be because most Sierra builders have been putting the heavier 6cly Jabiru motor in. The fuselage tubes are bigger and yes, the metal skin would also contribute (although not much). Basically the Sierra is beefed up a bit to take the larger motors. You mentioned safety and stall speeds...one thing you won't even know has happened in a Morgan Aircraft...LOL...seriously, the ones that I have flown are just so gentle....they give a slight buffet, you release the stick pressure and away shes goes again. No erratic wing drop, no violent dropping of the nose, nothing. I'm not sure of your rules in France, but the planes can also be fitted with a BRS if you are so concerned with accidents.

 

 

 

Onto your question about the removable wings. The claim of 10 minutes from rigged and into a trailer is true...albeit with practice (not something you really want to rush anyway). I have personally seen it, I have also helped re-rig one of the planes. The wings are large and probably too cumbersome for one person to install them alone. You really do need at least two people for the wings, one at the root and one at the tip. If it had to be done alone, I would probably build a unicycle type wheel for the wing-tip (like many glider pilots have) to aid in getting the wings out of a trailer and onto the plane alone. The tailplane is easy as...slip them onto the tail main spar, push in the pin and secure with a clip and you are ready to go.

 

 

 

Hope that answers you questions :-)

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Toby

 

 

[Garry Morgan]

The wings are fitted the same to all of our aircraft, a double over lap of spars which go to each side of the fuse and bolted together in the steel frame. and one person can do it like a glider rigging aid.

 

 

[jpreou]

This is a great thread! Thank you.

 

On the Sierra, how much solid riveting and in which areas, and same question for pulled / blind rivets.

 

I've built an RV-8 airframe (long story, see welcome post earlier today) so I am no stranger to riveting but that was in many places definitely a two-person job without doubt.

 

What about the Sierra? One person build capable? (obviously almost anything is easier and faster with two, I suspect this is no different, but I may not always have capable help).

 

I'm at the 'research' stage and starting to collect (re-collect) tools and prepare the workshop.

 

I'm also looking at the Zenith CH650 (currently second) and the Vans RV-12 (currently first).

 

The Sierra looks promising...

 

Cheers

 

--

 

Jeff

 

Hamilton, NZ

 

 

[Garry Morgan]

Hi Jeff,

 

There is only the spar that is solid riveted,no jigs it self alines as you build.the only special tool is an adjustable reamer for the tail pins. the construction is more like a model aircraft than a RV

 

 

[jpreou]

...and since your email (thanks for that) and as mentioned above, the possibility of pre-built spars, that might make life even easier. Good to know. I have most hand tools, apart from a hand rivet squeezer and maybe a couple of others; I don't have any air tools, but I do have a compressor remaining from my previous build. I buy tools from time to time when I see them; by the time I start a new build I should have the tools sorted. After the RV-8 build I did, I know which tools I used and were worth the money, and which I did not and were a complete waste: see ... "silver lining"! :-)

 

Thanks all.