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Posted

SPG2............chinese made ???

 

Rotax..........preferred, 2.62/1.......with 76" warpdrive. A great combo.

 

 

Posted

Thanks Tom , I know a few installations and they all appear to be going fine.

 

I'll give you a call later.

 

cheers

 

JimG

 

 

Posted

Hi Ian,

 

Just reminded me. I've just put the rebuilt soob in the aircraft, a bit of wiring to do.

 

Where in relation to TDC does the magnet sit on the flywheel ?

 

I wanted to put in a second ignition and thought about that as a trigger.

 

The engine with the Hirth gearbox runs lovely on the test stand so fingers crossed.....

 

Regards,

 

Paul

 

 

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Hi Paul, Just looking at this thread, what type of carby did you end up using? I am currently wrestling with a Stromberg 175 off a Range rover, no adjustment any where. I have got a needle pretty close to make it run nice .

 

Cheers Paul B

 

 

Posted

Hi Paul,

 

What a coincidence. Just got in earlier from Tyabb. It's finally finished ( until I find something else to adjust ! ). I ended up with a Weber 32/36 carb and unfortunately a speed hump on the cowling as the inlet adaptor sits a little proud of the top. It'll do for now but I do want to fit dual ignition that's independent of the distributor timing. I'll use a second Suby to do that though or this one will never fly. I made a 'hot box' to provide carb heat and it seems to work. Just have to complete the paperwork and get it inspected by the CASA AP.

 

Paul Toone

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for that info Paul, I'll spend a bit more time on the stromberg as it sits pretty low under the cowling, I don't want to do anymore fiberglassing. I have been told you don't need crab heat if you a pulling air from inside the cowling, cause it would be hot under there anyway, a bit less weight, just a thought.

 

Cheers Paul B

 

 

Posted

There are stipulated temperatures that must be achieved with carb heat systems. They probably work when that criteria is reached A carb temp indication should be helpful otherwise. IF there's enough heat in the cowl you are not getting full power from your engine. Nev

 

 

Posted

I think all carb systems can be prone to icing given appropriate conditions. I wasn't going to bother with carb heat but chickened out when thinking of the million and one things that could go wrong. So now we're down to a million things to go wrong ! I take it Paul, since you're in this thread, that you're using a Suby. Wonder if it's the EA 81 or EJ22. I know the 22 is an injection engine but some do go back to a carb for simplicity. One day I'd like to get a EJ22 to play with as I think in spite of the added complexity injection is the way to go. Plus around 130hp would be nice.

 

 

Posted

Some older motorcycles are pretty chronic icers of the carbs. The ones that are worst have long intake pipes. A refrigerator works on the same principle. Adiabatic expansion and change from liquid to gas. If you inject near the port you virtually eliminate the problem except for Rime ice Impacting on the intake. Nev

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Informative 1
  • Caution 1
Posted

Hi Methusala,

 

I was going to abbreviate you to Meth but perhaps not.

 

Very interested how you did efi. Is it single or multipoint?

 

Share some details if you would. It's the way I'd like to go. The EA81 is good but any carb is a pain.

 

Paul

 

 

Posted

Hi Paul T , Yes ..it is an EA81. Just been to the plane with a newly filed needle and it works, Ye Ha. Thats a load off but still running a little rough at idle so I took the prop off and is running smooth so I suspect the Warp Drive is not balanced. Anyone know how or where to take weight out of a Warp Drive blade or to add weight? Brush on some epoxy and flatten off I suppose.

 

 

Posted

You could try washers under the prop bolts. Being very close to the centre of the prop they will act the same as several grams of varnish or paint at the outer end.

 

 

Posted

Good idea Yenn....but the prop is balanced. I think it is the idle mixture, the dash pot oil viscosity has a lot to do with it on the Strombergs'

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Hi Ian and John,I was hoping one or both of you might pop up and give me some good info.

John, I remember you previously telling me you were running an SU but they come in varying sizes and models so at least now I can go to the wreckers and see what they have.

 

Ian, I'd be very happy to see some pics as the next question I need to ask is about the I/L manifold. I have the original with the water passing through it but again, ask ten people and you'll get ten different answers about keeping the original or building an unheated one. What have you done?

 

PD, I remember the Gunsons Colorplug and yes it did work !

 

The problem I've had on the zodiac's EA81 is the twin Bings. Even after changing to a two-blade Bolly, the idle is still not what I'd like and I get significant vibration below about 1500rpm. I think I may have to visit one of the maintainers and see if they can adjust it. This is one reason I want to go to a decent single on the 'spare' engine.

 

I am trying to keep the costs down as I still need to get a PSRU. Having made enquiries, I'm looking towards a Rotax C box. The Air Trikes unit from Canada looked good but Vassili has moved on to doing boxes for the more modern Soobs. The local agent in Brisbane had one left but wanted me to send him the complete engine and $2900. Probably not bad but the Rotax even with an adapter to bolt to the flywheel shouldn't take me that high I hope. I was quoted $1400 for the box ,plus GST I suppose.

 

Thanks so much to everyone for all your suggestions. Whilst we're here and having mentioned it, what about PSRU's ................

 

Paul

Hi I have a C box 3:62.1, new never been used and coupled to an EA 71 engine if you still need a PSRU call me 0418719537.

Tippy.

 

 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hi guys,

 

If anyone might be interestedlet me know please...

 

Hi guys, saw ads that you were looking for some engines or parts...

 

We have the following for sale on behalf of a friend that moved to UK to look after his terminally ill mother...

 

He originally imported from Australia both engine and propeller and could not build due to having to move...Let me know if you might be interested in buying it...

 

For sale: EA81 Sabaru motor (with reduction drive) along with a brand new Warp Drive Carbon fibre tri propeller with adjustible pitch. (3 blade - 60")@ a good price of R15 000 for engine and prop... If sold seperate we looking at R7500 each...

 

This engine came out of a gyracopter and a conversion and complete overhaul had been done on the motor. The engine was tested at the time and all is good. No gearbox with it thpugh...

 

Buyer to collect/ arrange collection in Krugersdorp. Photos to follow. If interested please contact me on 064 891 8363 (call/sms) or 082 295 5673 (w/app) or email - [email protected]

 

20170814_203028.jpg.c8b3fd7c3defefa2a09948519066d15e.jpg

 

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20170830_113352.jpg.6b3ac8f9e2bbc6339bca819d659f0408.jpg

 

20170830_113354.jpg.3d93a4b2125d13d20903d8a47d90b598.jpg

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've advertised for sale a brand new unused SUB4 redrive to suit an EA81 in the classifieds section. Was purchased for $3500 NZD and has been in storage since. I'm open to reasonable offers. I also have some EA81 engine bits. Located just outside Canberra.

 

 

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