facthunter Posted October 2, 2013 Posted October 2, 2013 Good for you in posting this. It gets the subject up and about. Soft soled shoes are vital and touchy toe brakes are a trap. They are the most common configuration though. The Citabria had Clevelands and the POH said keep your feet off the brakes for directional control.( Use the rudder) . Once your plane has gone more than about 30 degrees from where you want it to be (tracking), differential brakes won't always be much help. You wear it, or hit the taps and go round. Know your plane. Nev 1
Cosmick Posted October 2, 2013 Author Posted October 2, 2013 Thanks everyone for your support and understanding. "On returning from Moreton about half way the flight was interrupted by a moderate vibration"Has it been determined what the vibration was, that caused the concern? As mentioned in Marks post was possibly caused by an ECU. The engine/gearbox have to be checked due to the prop strike.
rankamateur Posted October 2, 2013 Posted October 2, 2013 l...it does have a extended rudder though I have one built, ready to bolt on, I can't think I will be needing it for some time yet!
rankamateur Posted October 2, 2013 Posted October 2, 2013 was possibly caused by an ECU. This is why some people open the oil check door to let the heat out when parking their hot plane.
David Isaac Posted October 2, 2013 Posted October 2, 2013 Nev is on the money as usual. The Cleveland brakes commonly fitted to modern aircraft and often retrofitted to Cubs and Austers and the like are really touchy and can get you in a lot of trouble. So will the brakes on a DC3 if you are on them (I recall a particular experience landing into Phnom Penh Cambodia in a UN DC3 in the 90s). Even when being instructed in Cessnas I can recall early in my training the instructor saying "now move your feet down low on the rudder pedals and off the top other wise you will be in danger of activating the brakes on the takeoff roll". This is particularly so in the Citabria ... accidentally and unintentionally stab the brakes on takeoff or landing in that baby (or over control) and it quickly turns into a game of "here I go there I go". The Auster has heel brakes which I personally think are counter intuitive, but you never accidentally hit them and they are not very effective anyway, but she has a magnificent beautiful lovely rudder ... LOL, thank God.
Guest Maj Millard Posted October 2, 2013 Posted October 2, 2013 Show me someone who hasn't applied brakes unintentionally when landing/ training in Cessnas ??.....I did it a couple of times in the 172, and as I was working for the school at the time as an engineer, remember changing a lot of near- new tires with a single lovely flat spot on them. Bit of a waste, but hey that's training for you.................Maj...
Kyle Communications Posted October 2, 2013 Posted October 2, 2013 This is why some people open the oil check door to let the heat out when parking their hot plane. I have always left my oil filler door open after flying to let the heat escape.
facthunter Posted October 2, 2013 Posted October 2, 2013 If you are getting a local heat problem a blast tube is a good idea. Nev
eightyknots Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 If you are getting a local heat problem a blast tube is a good idea. Nev I'm not aware of a blast tube. What is it and how does it work, Nev?
Kyle Communications Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 Just a air duct from the front to provide cooling. The issue I have been told is not the normal heat during operation under the cowl it is after you shut down the heat soaking that kills them. That is why I leave the oil check open after I fly. Not sure if the ECU is the issue of course but that will be the first port of call when it gets looked at
Guest Maj Millard Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 What ECU are you talking about Mark....ignition modual ???.......................Maj...
Kyle Communications Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 Yes Maj Sorry I know it as a ECU in my game...but yes the ignition module. 1 of the 2 is maybe crook 1
Guest Maj Millard Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 Ignition modual...right..they do go but generally are pretty reliable...make sure you check all your wire connections first, often that will be the problem. What exactly makes you think it is ignition related ?...............Maj...
Guest Maj Millard Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 What often kills ign boxes by the way, is people not knowing what they are doing and cranking the engine over with the plugs out, and the ignition switches on..................Maj...
Kyle Communications Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 The engine was running rough...not missing I asked a few people who are well versed with the engine and they all said if one of the modules goes down the engine can run rough. My engine the way it has been set up ran exceptionally smooth much smoother than most so any sort of slight problem would be picked up pretty quickly. What may have been a bit harder to pick up when flying with another aircraft that didnt run as smooth as mine may make all the difference.
Kyle Communications Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 I did a oil change recently but made sure the mags were not on during the spin over to get the oil pressure up before putting the plugs back in. You may remember my post asking about the front plugs being a lot dirtier than the rear plugs
Guest Maj Millard Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 Are you sure your carbs are set up per the book, in particular the sml idle adj on the exterior of carbs at 1.5 turns out.....also refer to static balancing of both carbs........Maj...
Kyle Communications Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 Yes the carbs are balanced... again one of the reasons it has been so smooth...I have one of the electronic balancers they show on the rotax site. The jets are are set up as per the book
Kyle Communications Posted October 6, 2013 Posted October 6, 2013 Mick and myself were up at the hanagr today to get a few things done and out so I can get a exact list of parts. Once I was able to have a really good look at things the problem seems to be the nose wheel fork rippng off the nose leg strut seems to be the failure. You may remember I replaced the aluminium side brackets at the bottom of the firewall that supports the bottom nose leg bearing with stainless steel ones I made. This seems to have given a lot more strength to the base of the firewall and this bearing bracket. I believe this is why the fork ripped off as there is such minimal damage to the firewall. I have seen a few nose leg repairs on savannahs and always the firewalls have been bent badly at the bottom and need to be replaced. maybe the stronger bottom brackets I made helped this to have little damage. The only real damage was the crinkled floor which is now out. I am going to modify the pilots rudder pedals as well to be longer and reposition the toe brakes I will add this to my other blog when I do them 1 1 1
rick morawski Posted October 7, 2013 Posted October 7, 2013 Hi Kyle Are you going to get new ali bits from ICP or just copy /make them out of sheet ali ? I reckon you could make them pretty quick. Rick
Kyle Communications Posted October 7, 2013 Posted October 7, 2013 I have just made the list of parts that I need today from ICP will get the pricing for the insurance company. The parts will come airfreight so really only a week or two wait on them. I would rather use new parts it will also make it easier to go back together being like a big mechano set anyway. The gearbox is out and going for inspection the engine remains in the aircraft it will have the deflection test done which is quite easy to do this will prove the crankshaft it isn't mandatory to do this if your gearbox has the clutch in it like mine does but for peace of mind I am covering all bases. I have the pricing for all the seals and bearings for the gearbox and the price of the shaft if necessary but I don't this this will be necessary...I hope. Last price I need I will get tomorrow is the 72inch prop and spinner
Guest Maj Millard Posted October 7, 2013 Posted October 7, 2013 I recently put a 912 gearbox back together. The book calls for a 'black max' type sealant on the mating surface. I talked with Wal and ended up using Loctite 515 which is a good all rounder, and no sign of any oil leakage at all. You'll find the 515 easier to source than the black max and it's easier to use, and is often used in the industry.......................Cheers Ross
Kyle Communications Posted October 8, 2013 Posted October 8, 2013 I was speaking to Floods yesterday getting prices etc for the overhaul..they told me it was Loctite 5910 was the one for the gearbox 1
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