jetjr Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 All good points, from my experience yes if you overfill a lot - like to top mark - it gets very hot oil temps BUT dumps the extra in maybe 10 min and all good. Havent thought of air problem before, early models had cavitation issues and had a pump upgrade. Mine on the odd occasion was slow to get pressure up, always did though Jab replaced pump free. Oil temps in cruise rarely a problem so low oil level/ high temp might not raise its head too much. Keep in mind we have two engine types out there, one much more sensitive to oil pressure than the other, one sees more problems too..........
biggles Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 Perhaps Bigges you might tell me (and others) why you consider my comments optimistic? Your input welcomed Nev Wasn't even aware of it . IPad sensitivity ...... Now removed .
dazza 38 Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 Wasn't even aware of it . IPad sensitivity ...... Now removed . It happens all the time, as a example, Windor 68 keeps giving me ' optimistic' for my posts IRT to CSG but I think he means to give me ,informative'. 2 1
biggles Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 It happens all the time, as a example, Windor 68 keeps giving me ' optimistic' for my posts IRT to CSG but I think he means to give me ,informative'. You're right mate ,these things are very sensitive. For example , you just called him ' Windor' and only gave 'informative' one of these...' ........ Bob 1 1
dazza 38 Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 You're right mate ,these things are very sensitive. For example , you just called him ' Windor' and only gave 'informative' one of these...' ........ Bob My fault, stupid fingers,
hyundai Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 I have a 2200 jab it has Air/ fuel ratio gauge a must, EGT,s on 3-4 1-2 coming soon gauge that is. And last a 2inch butterfly on the intake into aircleaner. On cruise it will lean out I just close the butterfly a little and that riches it to Rich of peak. I don't know how I could fly it without this setup. 1
Jaba-who Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 I have a 2200 jab it has Air/ fuel ratio gauge a must, EGT,s on 3-4 1-2 coming soon gauge that is. And last a 2inch butterfly on the intake into aircleaner. On cruise it will lean out I just close the butterfly a little and that riches it to Rich of peak. I don't know how I could fly it without this setup. I like the sound of the air/fuel ratio guage. This sounds like it might be a useful addition to the monitoring but then it may tell you something you can get from the EGTs anyway. Can you give us a little more info about the air/fuel ratio guage? Where does its sensor sit - which bit is it testing? Where did you get it from and how much does it cost? Was it easy enough to install?
hyundai Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 The AFR gauge works with the EGT o monitor your engine depends on the temp out side at times it will run without richer mixture. I bought mine from eBay but I looked and the one I bought no longer there but other models. Mine bought a oxygen sencer Holden commodore fitted to exhaust On tail pipe 2 inch down from tail pipe weld. I have done 530 and no valve probs as yet touch wood.
Guest Andys@coffs Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 The standard automotive O2 sensor is destroyed by fuels containing lead. If you've decided to run 98octane mogas in your jab then this approach will work. If you are running Avgas then this approach will work.....for about 10 hours or so. google o2 sensor and leaded fuel for more info. At about $50 a sensor Im not sure that's a great way to proceed. I don't personally have experience, the warnings on the net about the impact of lead in the fuel have always scared me off. Similarly the claim that 10 hours will kill it is just what I've read Andy
jetjr Posted May 20, 2015 Posted May 20, 2015 SDS - the injection mob - have an AFR which seems to work with lead I think. Not sure if they are only used for setup though. Ross is watching the injection thread, ask him. Look to getting sensors on each cylinder, averages simply dont tell you enough. EGT numbers and limits are measured a certain distance from ports. Like 8cm?? I think Those read further along the system wont be comparable. Also you can see 100 deg C differences between cylinders on the same side due to poor fuel/air distribution The butterfly could be influencing the swirl or buffet in incoming air - a black art with Jabirus I reckon. I pull on a bit of carb heat changes EGT spread too. Carb is very sensitive to it. Also can try NOT using naca cowl inlet for air but sourcing air from inside cowls - havent one it but keen to. Some possibility forced air is stuffing things up in the air box causing swirling. 1
Jaba-who Posted May 20, 2015 Posted May 20, 2015 Yeah. Starting to sound like it may be of minimal benefit if it's just one sensor on the exhaust pipe. . ( maybe with one on each outlet from the cylinder it might help) The big problem with jabs is highly variable air flows coming out of the carby throat and into plenum chamber. So much variability that baffles in the cobra head, tilting the carby a bit as well as things like varied fuel droplet size in the air all can change distribution from one side to other or front vs back cylinders quite dramatically. So knowing what an average is coming out the back end is not much help. You could put one on every outlet. But I already have an EGT probe there so there's a problem getting physical space and then also whether you get any more I fire than you already get from the EGT. Also I always run the engine on avgas so lead is problem.
hyundai Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 I overhauled my engine at xmas done about 20 hrs puled it through one morning found 3 cylinders had very little compression i had used Grant piston rings. I stripped it down and honed replaced with Hastings rings all cylinders are up to specs now I wonder was Grant rings the problem ???? The engine sounds more crisp and performs better. What is the change over for D9EA plugs to dubble platinum plugs any one know. Cheers Hyundai
facthunter Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 Inspecting the rings (tension scuffing , distortion etc) The condition of the contacting faces will tell you Rings can be distorted if not installed carefully. Nev
Russ Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 became aware of a "mod" recently......cut a 50mm hole directly in front of the oil filter cartridge ( cowl ).....allows direct air blast onto filter.......aides cooling oil just sayin R
hyundai Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 hey guys what type of iridium plugs for jabs (hyundai)
Russ Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 according to ngk, there's only one ........DR9EIX............equiv to D9EA. ( somebody here mentioned don't regap them......straight out of the box ) R
jetjr Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 And be careful which coils you have, not all can "drive" Iridium plugs as they are resistor type
facthunter Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 I would steer off "R" plugs generally. They will increase load on coils and a leakage may finish it off. This gets worse as altitude increases. (less pressure more chance of spark going to an alternate path) Nev. 1 1
Oscar Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 CAMit use Honda coils, with potted HT leads. If you want your sparks to arrive reliably under all conditions, buy the CAMit ones. 1
jetjr Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 Agreed re homda units Answer isnt simple, Jabiru have supplied a wide range over the years, some good some not. I think older ones appear OK...........but back then the coils did give problems and were regular replacement items. It seems once you got a good pair they last and last
Old Koreelah Posted June 7, 2015 Posted June 7, 2015 Agreed re homda unitsAnswer isnt simple, Jabiru have supplied a wide range over the years, some good some not. I think older ones appear OK...........but back then the coils did give problems and were regular replacement items. It seems once you got a good pair they last and last I replaced one of my coils with the Cold Start Kit. Does anyone know if that coil is well-matched with Iridiums?
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