Skee Posted August 2, 2017 Author Posted August 2, 2017 So, issue found. A brass bearing was loose and oil passed by the valves, i was the first to have this issue. Engine should be back next week. 2 1
Geoff13 Posted August 2, 2017 Posted August 2, 2017 Good to hear. Also what is very promising is that the factory appears to be very happy to sort issues as they arise and are not trying to duck the issue or pass it on elsewhere.
eightyknots Posted August 3, 2017 Posted August 3, 2017 Good to hear. Also what is very promising is that the factory appears to be very happy to sort issues as they arise and are not trying to duck the issue or pass it on elsewhere. Yes, that gives me a lot of confidence. Clients/Customers want solutions, not excuses. It seems as if D Motor is providing solutions. 1
Skee Posted August 5, 2017 Author Posted August 5, 2017 Ok, they are upgrading my oil pump from one that needs to be bled to one that can suck oil, a newer version. While they are pulling the engine apart I also asked them to anodise the engine mount since I've got light surface corrosion, I'm the first customer who asks for this, the engine has bare aluminium parts and I have a cold storage hangar that can get very moist and cold in winter. Engine delayed till end of august.
Skee Posted August 24, 2017 Author Posted August 24, 2017 They drove back up to me and helped me assemble the aircraft again, new oil pump was really good, instant oil pressure. They wanted me to change the flow of water so now i have a thermostat directly after engine, the thermo bob is gone and in came a simple one, thus making water flowing through the radiators and not shock cooling the engine when thermostat opened, when rerouting the water i no longer got flow into the cabin heater so im moving the hoses around for that. Also another weird thing is that now after water is cooled, the cylinder coolant inlets are positioned right by the coolant temp meter, so i get 20C less measured at efis compared to the ecu´s water temp meter that is positioned after engine, i told them i dont agree on the position of efis coolant temp meter, i'm now installing a inline water meter after the cylinder outlets so i can read same temp as ECU/thermostat, this worked better when i had the thermo bob. 1 1
rgmwa Posted August 24, 2017 Posted August 24, 2017 They should probably be paying you for beta-testing the engine for them. You haven't had a good run with it so far.
Skee Posted April 27, 2019 Author Posted April 27, 2019 So 1½ year since last post, 2018 passsed, with a flighttesting passed and November 2018 i got my flight permit. Also, August 2018 i visited Kyle in Brisbane and got to meet his Girlfriend, thanks for letting me meet her Kyle. Ive been out visiting friends. And a new year has begun. And i have now Lengthened the propflange 3cm and started with making my own cowling. I poured foam over it and it looked like this. And then i sanded it down a bit to get a feeling, and i like it allot more than the old one that was a compromise. The Compromise cowl. Have a great day. 2
IBob Posted April 27, 2019 Posted April 27, 2019 How many hours do you have on the D motor now, Skee? And how is it performing???
eightyknots Posted April 28, 2019 Posted April 28, 2019 That cowl really alters the looks of the front.
Skee Posted April 29, 2019 Author Posted April 29, 2019 How many hours do you have on the D motor now, Skee? And how is it performing??? About 60 hours flying now and it performs pretty good now, no issues since last, im building up my confidence. That cowl really alters the looks of the front. And not by little, its huge.
Skee Posted May 11, 2019 Author Posted May 11, 2019 Got the shape ready, was a pain in the arse to sand the 2 part filler and now i have used liquid filler, next is to sand the filling one more time and then spray with 2 part paint and then on to the polyester mold. 1
Blueadventures Posted May 12, 2019 Posted May 12, 2019 Got the shape ready, was a pain in the **** to sand the 2 part filler and now i have used liquid filler, next is to sand the filling one more time and then spray with 2 part paint and then on to the polyester mold. [ATTACH type=full" alt="42231]42231[/ATTACH][ATTACH type=full" alt="42232]42232[/ATTACH] Nice work; that is why we call the sanding / shaping board a 'Torture board' :)
Skee Posted May 19, 2019 Author Posted May 19, 2019 What a hell of a job, just spent another 3 days just fixing and sanding, jeeez, finally sanded with 400 grit & waxed, ready for mold. 1
Blueadventures Posted May 20, 2019 Posted May 20, 2019 What a hell of a job, just spent another 3 days just fixing and sanding, jeeez, finally sanded with 400 grit & waxed, ready for mold. [ATTACH=full]42351[/ATTACH] Hi Dennis Looking a nice shape. Hope you don't mind this question. Is your finish surface product suitable for the tooling gel coat or gel coat and layups? Wax alone will not protect certain coatings from reacting in a bad damaging way. Some coatings are damaged during the cure of the gel coat layer and result in a wrinkled mould surface. If your unsure about being a satisfactory product check with a local fibreglass shop experienced in moulding off patterns or atleast trial a sample piece before doing the mould layups on your cowl pattern. I learn't the hard way years ago. Cheers and best wishes
Skee Posted May 23, 2019 Author Posted May 23, 2019 Gelcoat time. And as Seperator i used tongue depressor and hot glue. And another intresting fact, temperature rose from 5C to 24C in the pas few days, so filler expanded and i had to sand some spots... Hi Dennis Looking a nice shape. Hope you don't mind this question. Is your finish surface product suitable for the tooling gel coat or gel coat and layups? Wax alone will not protect certain coatings from reacting in a bad damaging way. Some coatings are damaged during the cure of the gel coat layer and result in a wrinkled mould surface. If your unsure about being a satisfactory product check with a local fibreglass shop experienced in moulding off patterns or atleast trial a sample piece before doing the mould layups on your cowl pattern. I learn't the hard way years ago. Cheers and best wishes Yeah thanks, i did a test sample and it worked out nice, the liquid filler did not like the curing heat so i lowered the mix volume of hardener and i used allot of extra wax. 2
Skee Posted June 26, 2019 Author Posted June 26, 2019 And its done, it took 2 months of active work on it. Lets hope cooling works. 1
cherk Posted June 26, 2019 Posted June 26, 2019 And its done, it took 2 months of active work on it. Lets hope cooling works. Having similar issues ! Hope it works for you, Bloody nice work there Skee.
Kyle Communications Posted June 26, 2019 Posted June 26, 2019 You have done a great job Dennis. I hope you have enough cooling there as well 1
eightyknots Posted June 27, 2019 Posted June 27, 2019 I hear that the weather in Europe is really hot. A good time to test the cooling!!
Skee Posted June 28, 2019 Author Posted June 28, 2019 Cooling didnt work, had to put the old bigger intakes on it. 1 1
eightyknots Posted October 12, 2021 Posted October 12, 2021 Hello Skee, I noticed that you have a red light on your extended rudder (as per the attached YouTube screenshot). I am building a Savannah currently and will be using an extended rudder. Could you tell me how you ran the wires from the moving rudder to the fixed airframe? I look forward to hearing about your wiring approach and whether this has been successful for the five years that you have been flying the aircraft.
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