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And a Savannah S in Sweden.


Skee

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Ok so i got the Aircraft primed, what a load of work, not to be kidding of, many days, and i had quite a drive to get there, 120km one-way.

 

First MEK/thinner the whole aircraft, then rub it with Alodine 1201.

 

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I used Randolph aircraft Coating, probably not the cheapest but damn it looks good, three thin coats to form one covering coat, first try was a bit thick but the rest was perfect.

 

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I must give my gratitude to my Friend Hans Marchner for letting me sneak in my aircraft in his paint booth when he had painted his, so i helped him finalize his plane and then he painted my stuff in rounds.

 

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So on Thursday im leaving the fuselage at a Pro painter to get it painted within 2 months.

 

I also decided were to put my Dynon Pitot.

 

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  • 1 month later...

So it has Happened, the fuselage is painted =)

 

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I also orderd the D-motor from Belgium.

 

Icp is beeing slow as usual, i keep calling them wanting blueprints/invoices but nothing happens.

 

Im in the Process of ordering several items and i need feedback from you.

 

This prop 63"inches http://www.shop.electravia.fr/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=100_150&products_id=230 Is it enough? its made for the Dmotor, do i want smaller?

 

anyone know how big spinner i need? 210mm or 250mm?

 

As i have a watercooled engine im thinking of using this, and Oil/water thermostat to skip installing a oil radiator. http://www.silent-hektik.com/UL_912_Thermo.htm (you may have to use google translator)

 

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Any thoughts on this?

 

Have anyone tinted their windows? im thinking of a 10% tint to make it less hot in the craft, http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Crystalline-90-VLT-30-x-78-Automotive-Window-Film-Tint-Roll-Uncut-CR90-/301404006100 the 3M removes allot of heat and then use a 3M plastic to protect the window on the outside.

 

also ordered

 

1 x PowerFlarm® anticollision unit [PF Core] €1,198.00 ADSB Radar

 

1 x Trig mouting tray TT21/TT22 [00667-00] €29.50

 

1 x Trig TT21 Klasse-II Main-Unit [00565-00] €1,575.00 Transponder

 

1677643911_savs.jpg.dcdc71e3b6780397a493709ca2a1b0da.jpg

 

 

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So it has Happened, the fuselage is painted =)[ATTACH=full]32925[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]32924[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]32926[/ATTACH]

 

I also orderd the D-motor from Belgium.

 

Icp is beeing slow as usual, i keep calling them wanting blueprints/invoices but nothing happens.

 

Im in the Process of ordering several items and i need feedback from you.

 

This prop 63"inches http://www.shop.electravia.fr/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=100_150&products_id=230 Is it enough? its made for the Dmotor, do i want smaller?

 

anyone know how big spinner i need? 210mm or 250mm?

 

As i have a watercooled engine im thinking of using this, and Oil/water thermostat to skip installing a oil radiator. http://www.silent-hektik.com/UL_912_Thermo.htm (you may have to use google translator)

 

[ATTACH]32927[/ATTACH]

 

Any thoughts on this?

 

Have anyone tinted their windows? im thinking of a 10% tint to make it less hot in the craft, http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Crystalline-90-VLT-30-x-78-Automotive-Window-Film-Tint-Roll-Uncut-CR90-/301404006100 the 3M removes allot of heat and then use a 3M plastic to protect the window on the outside.

 

also ordered

 

1 x PowerFlarm® anticollision unit [PF Core] €1,198.00 ADSB Radar

 

1 x Trig mouting tray TT21/TT22 [00667-00] €29.50

 

1 x Trig TT21 Klasse-II Main-Unit [00565-00] €1,575.00 Transponder

Is it your intention to paint the plane in the same colour scheme as that float plane?

 

 

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If you keep packing more gear in it, maybe you could consider pulling the passenger seat out to save on weight. Mark Kyle did tint his roof panel with the darkest street legal tint in Australia.

Well a transponder is essential, at 440gram i think its ok ;)

 

Is it your intention to paint the plane in the same colour scheme as that float plane?

Yup.

 

 

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If you keep packing more gear in it, maybe you could consider pulling the passenger seat out to save on weight. Mark Kyle did tint his roof panel with the darkest street legal tint in Australia.

http://glider-equipment.nl/catalog/product_info.php/powerflarm%C3%82%C2%AE-anticollision-unit-core-p-1409

power_flarm_core_anticollision_device.jpg.9ff10ce6cdc4bcb9b1e3a0455ded3d6e.jpg

 

and

 

http://glider-equipment.nl/catalog/product_info.php/trig-tt21-klasseii-mainunit-0056500-p-935?language=en

 

trig-tt21-basis-unit-tt21-mu.jpg.b34670340419551e21806e81fa3e1b89.jpg

 

 

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Hey now when I am by myself I can have all 4 tanks full also carry 20kg of luggage AND another 40 litres of fuel strapped to the pax seat...Brisbane to Melbourne in one stop and still be under 600KG......just...but now in a bit of comfort with the new sticks...except I need a new bladder or a catheter

 

 

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actually, you can buy a similar item, worn like a condom, but with a tube to dump urine overboard. or into a tank.... Military pilots wear them, or as space shuttle and astronauts wear, adult diapers...

Presumably, males only for this? Diapers for females??

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ive been working with the Fuselage after the painting and restoring and doing changes.

 

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I also got the Engine mount and Cowling, to my surprise when unpacking everything the cowling was just sheets of metal and of course icp didn't send any instructions 008_roflmao.gif.692a1fa1bc264885482c2a384583e343.gif and they even promised to send me them by email last friday.015_yelrotflmao.gif.6321765c1c50ed62b69cf7a7fe730c49.gif

 

Engine mount wasnt a clear fit either, dont know if it has to do with is a jabiru2200 mount or something, but i think it leans allot downwards, normal?

 

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I have a problem i need suggestions, since im having a Injection system installed i must have a circulating system, 12o Liter/H (2L/min) this means i cannot use the original return to the wing since its only 3mm inside diameter in alu tubing.

 

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I've talked some with the engine manufacturer and what we come forward with was to make a returning fuel pipe right beside the admission line back and connect it to the top of the reservoir, thereto also disconnecting one wing tank and use a T-joint for the wing tanks into the reservoir.

 

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Best is to return it to the 6 liter reservoir.

Admission at the bottom and return on top.

 

You need at least 20 cm between admission point and return pont because you have a lot of air in the return line.

 

Look at this video

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B1AHRw7BUNjrbWFqeGRDbFZ0WFU&usp=sharing

 

If you get this air in the fuel lines you have problems therefore you need the 20 cm distance.

 

Is your 6 liter tank higher than fuel pump?

 

try to put you fuel pump as close as possible to fuel tank.

 

Problem of diamter and vapour lock is only between fuel tank and fuel pump.

 

So if you go with 10 mm to fuel pump and then you have the 7mm then there will be no problem.

 

Fuel pump as close as possible to fuel tank is security.

 

In our plane it is just behind pilot seat at 20 cm of fuel admission.

So i need to put the Fuelpump underneath my seat, ok.

This made me think what he says here is that allot of air comes back in the return line, how does that air get out? return via the wing tank tubes? doesn't that stop the flow down to the reservoir? vapour lock? do i need to worry?

 

My only solution that i thought of is to use the original return line from right wing down to the reservoir and make a new plug in the reservoirs top?

 

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Hi Skee

 

There's always problems when you change things hey.

 

You can add inlets or vents to the reserve tank. I usually add a 6mm vent line to the tank (see photo)224322533_IMG_20141216_095908_5311.jpg.7ebb7246d71948717e241c4c95c07e91.jpg and run a hose from it up to the top end of the sight tubeand tee it in there. This allows trapped air to escape without impeding incoming fuel flow. When you get enough air trapped in the tank you will get false low fuel warning. In your case you could put an 8mm return fuel in plus a 6mm vent line. These have to be inserted through the low fuel float switch hole and pulled back up through the hole with a pull wire like you would have done with the fuel tanks.

 

I don't think returning 120 lit/hr to the wing tank is a good idea, would overflow pretty quickly.

 

Also, in your fuel layout diagram - I think your fuel pressure regulator should be on the main inlet side before the motor, not after like you have it.

 

Cheers

 

Rick

 

 

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Hi Dennis

 

I have bought my fuel return now back onto my fuel switch valves which sit directly at the top of the reserve tank. This way I do not overflow the inner tank. It used to go back into the top of the fuel tank where the sight gauges are but now it is much better and it will not overflow the tank

 

 

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Hi SkeeThere's always problems when you change things hey.

You can add inlets or vents to the reserve tank. I usually add a 6mm vent line to the tank (see photo)[ATTACH]33221[/ATTACH] and run a hose from it up to the top end of the sight tubeand tee it in there. This allows trapped air to escape without impeding incoming fuel flow. When you get enough air trapped in the tank you will get false low fuel warning. In your case you could put an 8mm return fuel in plus a 6mm vent line. These have to be inserted through the low fuel float switch hole and pulled back up through the hole with a pull wire like you would have done with the fuel tanks.

 

I don't think returning 120 lit/hr to the wing tank is a good idea, would overflow pretty quickly.

 

Also, in your fuel layout diagram - I think your fuel pressure regulator should be on the main inlet side before the motor, not after like you have it.

 

Cheers

 

Rick

As i thought, this is what ill do, my wing-tanks came pre-fitted with inlet/outlets from icp, instead of using the standard 6mm mounted return inlet used by the 912 ill use it as a gas return line from the reservoir, mount a new 10mm and 6mm outside diameter fitting on the reservoir.

The diagram was actually made by the engine manufacturer, not that pretty.

 

I also ordered the prop, http://www.shop.electravia.fr/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=100_150&products_id=230

 

 

Expensive 1700 euro with all accesories, ex vat.

 

 

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Ive seen some cooler cowlings in my life:faint:, but its very practical, its like a hood, i can pop the two top sides up..

 

Wonder if i should cower the top two vents in the front, i don´t think i need them since i have watercooling, anyone?

 

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Ive also added a few fittings to my reservoir, this should work for the fuel return, thanks for help.

 

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Just allot of small tinkering before engine arrives, yikes theses small things take time......

 

New fuellines for the circulating injection system.

 

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Braketubing.

 

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Also got the Efis up running, to my surprise i had to open one up and solder the SD card reader back inside,030_dizzy.gif.fecc2d0d52af5722561e47dee1add28d.gif, also putted a AGU fuse close to the battery.

 

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Ropes for parachute come up here from the main carriage wheel spring, its looping.

 

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Happy holidays...

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

the air hose from the res is on, hope it helps.

 

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Im looking at the engine mount and cant help thinking it points downwards allot?

 

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The ugly cowling is on aswell.

 

Orderd my cabin heating system, its gonna be a water system, a friend in norway thought the ordinary heating was enough to remove some frost but thats it,, i need warmth up here in the north.

 

http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=310

 

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Anyone here got any experience on Thermostats?

 

http://www.silent-hektik.com/UL_912_Thermo.htm this tp one with heat exchanger

 

or a Thermobob? and a serperate oil stat?

 

http://shop.watt-man.com/Thermo-Bob-1-Universal-Kit-with-One-Inch-Fittings-TB1.htm

 

Cant decide if to have starter on top or behind, is the space enough?

 

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I have the Thermobob on the water and it works fantastic...Instead of starting then waiting a few minutes before taxiing towards the end of the strips I can now start and taxi then by the time I reach there the engine is up to temp...I don't have any oil thermostat though

 

Mark

 

 

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