rankamateur Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 I use a little green "Landmark" notebook and a tiny little pencil, works for me. The rivet drill out log is nearly as long as the build log, even with the best intention not to drill any out! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 I use a little green "Landmark" notebook and a tiny little pencil, works for me. The rivet drill out log is nearly as long as the build log, even with the best intention not to drill any out! Well, im also in the practise of drilling out rivets from time to time ;) Whats on my mind now is if i should use Rivnuts to close the inspection holes for fueltanks or just rivet them, and at what stage to paint everyhing, really confused! inspection wise i have easy access to optics to inspect the whole wing from my cockpit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 I have closed all four tank covers with 3mm countersunk rivnuts, ONLY on sides and rear, didn't want to drill big holes in main wing spar! As far as painting, just before engine and electrical installation , don't forget to do all the fairings and covers for strut attachment, wing roots and stabiliser etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 Umm and i only found M3 sunken alu rivnuts on ebay from australia? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NUTSERTS-M3-ALUMINIUM-THIN-SHEET-3mm-RIV-NUT-RIVNUT-RIVET-50pcs-/291013287919?pt=AU_Fasteners&hash=item43c1be5fef Finally found in Sweden, its a special order :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 I got mine from my kit supplier http://www.aerokits.net.au/product_6.htm , they were very much less expensive than the ones you found on ebay. He also has the 3mm stainless steel machine screws as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 I got mine from my kit supplier http://www.aerokits.net.au/product_6.htm , they were very much less expensive than the ones you found on ebay. He also has the 3mm stainless steel machine screws as well. Ok, stainless steel? why not use Galvanized screws, its closer to aluminium in Galvanic relation? http://www.scapro.se/images/galvanicrelationship.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 I have used all 3 mm stainless pan head machine screws to hold the tank covers. Just be careful when pulling the rivets it is easy to strip the thread using the mandril in the puller also a good idea is to put a drop of loctite when putting the rivnut in before you pull it this will stop it from turning if it ever locks up. Also after pulling the rivnut I ran a 3 mm tap through it to make sure the screw went in without any grabbing in the thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 How would it go if you used 5mm screws along the main spar and threaded the pre-drilled hoes for M5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 How would it go if you used 5mm screws along the main spar and threaded the pre-drilled hoes for M5 Thats one way going for it, intresting, but wont that induce cracking points in the main spar? i would rather use rivnuts in that case. So, just thought to present my plans for the aircraft, about what equipment im gonna use. So i Ordered kit #1, which is very basic with some extra accessories like aux tanks, electric trim and map holders. Magnum 501 Parachute. 9,65 kg, for lightweight. Engine choice is the ICP M09 Engine 115 HP. about 70kg http://fly-buylsa.com/uploads/MotoreDellaNebbia.ppt Powerpoint http://experimenter.epubxp.com/i/108002/26 article. For avionics im going for a Dual Mgl iEFIS, 8,5" and 10,4" with remote conntrolled V6 radio and remote controlled Garrecht Vt01 Mode S ADS-B xpndr for a clean desk. 2x Mgl Autopilot servos. i also ordered a Dynon Angle of Attack(AOA) Pitot Boom. Powerflarm Core is in mind so i can see other Aircraft on efis. Battery is a Aerovoltz Lithium battery 12 cell 1,106grams 20 amps. gotta save weight. http://aerovoltz.net/en/aerovoltz-12-cell-lithium-battery A Vertical power VP-X sport for CircutBreakers controllable from the Efis, and if possible also the new PPS(Primary Power System) that handle the starter relays and main power bus. http://verticalpower.com/vp-x/ & http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=101987 For lighting Im gonna use AveoEngineering POSISTROBE MINIMAX & POWERBURST http://www.aveoengineering.com/index.php/product-info-posistrobe-minimax http://www.aveoengineering.com/index.php/product-info-powerburst Thats how it looks like now. inv.828.PDF inv.828.PDF inv.828.PDF 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted December 30, 2013 Author Share Posted December 30, 2013 So yes left wing. I dont have to read the instructions this time, i remeber everything, so it was just a matter of riveting everything. Main construction, lower skin, skin by the Flaperons, outer bottom skin, flaperon consoles and console for vertical tip skin. Tested out a new way to paint by masking so i wouldnt make such a mess, and it works =) Also decided to put rivnuts around the inspection hole underneath the tanks for easy access, of to buy them tomorrow, special order. Also off to look if i can get some better fuel lines, Kyle changed all of his so it wouldn't smell Petrol in the cabin. Love this countersink tool, just attach it to the rivtool. Its really cramped in here now. Now i need to sleep, 01:34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 No im not married, i got a GF though, she got into the pic after the build started ;) I can't see the girlfriend in the picture anywhere . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Dennis what has ICP told you about the engine and when it will be available also a price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Dennis what has ICP told you about the engine and when it will be available also a price? Just about nothing, ive been trying to get some info so i can get it certified here in Sweden," yes ill fix" and nothing happens. They said spring/summer. all i know is in the yahoo group and the links above. I can't see the girlfriend in the picture anywhere . She came in after the picture, Literally ;) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 Been installing the fuel system today. Even got the Molex plugs installed. And even outer top Skin Today's blooper was when i drilled my self in the finger, blood everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Today's blooper was when i drilled my self in the finger, blood everywhere. Now you are a builder, not a virgin anymore! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Wasn't funny when Reg was looking over my shoulder saying don't drill your finger, and I was saying it wasn't near the drill, and he was right and I was wrong! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Hi Skee, I would add some kind of standoff between those fuel lines crossing over and touching each other. Either another zip tie wrapped around the one holding them together (between the two lines) or lay a small piece (5mm) flat of fuel line between them and then put the one zip tie through that to hold them. I am always surprised how much wear you get when hoses touch and can rub. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 Hi Skee, I would add some kind of standoff between those fuel lines crossing over and touching each other. Either another zip tie wrapped around the one holding them together (between the two lines) or lay a small piece (5mm) flat of fuel line between them and then put the one zip tie through that to hold them. I am always surprised how much wear you get when hoses touch and can rub. Like this? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 That's it! ....SORRY! didn't see it (obviously) from the other earlier pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 Thats it! SORRY! didn't see it (obviously) from the picture No no i made the change after u told me. Thanks. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 OK Great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 In the photo there's a blue hose, its smaller than the ordinary, but i had serious issues getting the ordinary 8mm hose into the smaller 5mm hose, so i changed it on both wings. Also changed some other hoses that i thought was 8mm when mounted in Right wing but it wasn't. Today i also got the new clear Fuel filters so i could finally assemble system, filter was 8mm iD so had to make a coupling from the 5mm to a 8mm, i simply cut off the enlargement form the old fuel filter that had a 6mm & 8mm step and used it. Also i mounted Rivnuts around the inspection hatch, this was a pain in the ARSE, they were so fragile, i had to redo several of them. Rear part has counter sunken rivnuts and side has ordinary rivnuts witch makes them a bit taller. Also pulled a strobe wire. AWG20 3 wire shielded, that's some really expensive cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skee Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 Also Santa came with a late delivery. Strobes =) and Magnum 501 parachute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Nice Leds but I need the 600kg chute Dennis !!!!! not sure about that over the other hose joint you have done up in the tank area I would find a proper size to size adapter joiner I think 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Were the rivnuts you used steel or aluminium? I had very little trouble with the steel ones on my tanks, except if you try to pull them too hard the thread pulls off centre, but there is no need to pull them that hard anyway. Aluminium one though are a real problem, nearly useless, the mandrel tears the thread out of them really easily so the screw probrably will too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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