rankamateur Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 why did the manufacturer of parachute send me eleven 3,5m bridles?i need. NOTE: lunghezza delle briglie / length of bridles A = posteriori (rear bridles) = 5 ft = 1.5 m (2 pieces) B = frontali (forward bridles) = 5.5 ft = 1.7 m (2 pieces) C = centrale / principale (central bridle) = 8 ft = 2.4 m (1 piece) thats just 5 of them.. sigh:loopy: They have to be threaded over your wing mount bracket to bear the load of your plane if you deploy your chute. Mark put them in his even though he hasn't got his chute yet, you can't put them in later. He will be able to advise you. "5 of them" might be a spare one, I would have expected only 4
rankamateur Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 Wasn't funny when Reg was looking over my shoulder saying don't drill your finger, and I was saying it wasn't near the drill, and he was right and I was wrong! Clue is the metal get warm just before you drill your finger! 1 1
Skee Posted January 27, 2014 Author Posted January 27, 2014 They have to be threaded over your wing mount bracket to bear the load of your plane if you deploy your chute. Mark put them in his even though he hasn't got his chute yet, you can't put them in later. He will be able to advise you. "5 of them" might be a spare one, I would have expected only 4 i got eleven that is 3,5 meter each, i need a total of five 2x1,5m 2x1,7m and one 2,4m, hehe.. bought my chute from other source than icp.
rankamateur Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 i got eleven that is 3,5 meter each, i need a total of five 2x1,5m 2x1,7m and one 2,4m, hehe..bought my chute from other source than icp. They might be bungees, just hook them on a skyhook as you go past on the way down, problem solved. 1
Skee Posted January 27, 2014 Author Posted January 27, 2014 Santa was here again.. This is a tiny powerful Lithium battery =) (20 amps, 410 cranking, 1,1kg) And the Dynon Pitot with AOA(Angle of attack) Even got the static port installed. And top wall up.
rankamateur Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 The braces on the back wall of the baggage bay go on the other side of the sheet and have little plates that rivet them to the ones under the floor of the compartment usually.
eightyknots Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 I think it will foul the flap control box if you install it on the other side, you will not have a battery drain hole on the battery compartment either. I put my side skins on the wrong side, purposely, but they do have little tool marks where the CNC machines grip the sheets all the way along the edge, so your bottom sheet probrably has those too. In my case it put the access door on the other side so I could more easily service the battery. Do you have a part number xx133 , can't remember the letters, across the top of your luggage compartment , in line with the back of the rocket bay, could you post a photo of it if you do, mine is missing from the kit and I need to fabricate one. thanks Why don't you get ICP to send you the missing part RA?
rankamateur Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Why don't you get ICP to send you the missing part RA? Will take too long, and will not be any better result really. I can us the folders and gilloutine at Aerokits if I can see a photo of what I am building but the left over angle from the unused tank cover will work anyway, may not be as easy to carpet over is the only thing to consider.
Kyle Communications Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 why did the manufacturer of parachute send me eleven 3,5m bridles?i need. NOTE: lunghezza delle briglie / length of bridles A = posteriori (rear bridles) = 5 ft = 1.5 m (2 pieces) B = frontali (forward bridles) = 5.5 ft = 1.7 m (2 pieces) C = centrale / principale (central bridle) = 8 ft = 2.4 m (1 piece) thats just 5 of them.. sigh:loopy: Hi Dennis I got the install kit for the chute from ICP they supplied the bridles there were 4 for the cabin frames and one to hook to the chute by a carabina which was also supplied. I suppose so long as you have 2 the same length and another 2 the same length as each other the shorter ones go to the back as the nose hangs down when the chute is open and one to attach to the chute...doesn't matter really I would think the lengths so long as the bloody thing opens if you have to use it and it stays attached to the aircraft 1
rankamateur Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Even if it doesn't open, just as long as it flaps a lot and creates some drag it will slow you down a bit, and the flapping will warn people on the ground to get out of your way. 1
eightyknots Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 Slowly and steady =)[ATTACH]27148[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27149[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27150[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27151[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27152[/ATTACH] Now of to bed Fantastic progress. I would say more than "slow and steady" Dennis. How about "fast and steady".
rankamateur Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 He is fast catching up to me! I am just about to finish off the seats and install the main gear, it is still a unicyle. 1
Skee Posted February 5, 2014 Author Posted February 5, 2014 Steering colomn mounted, here i found a good place to use the leftover stainless steel rivets, between steering console and firewall. There seems to be an update to the cowling support, it does not need to be wrinkled, but holes did not fit on the firewall, had to drill my own. And how the F**k does this work out? it out of alignment ~40mm And cabin frame with jig is up, rear fuselage is out in the hallway. Engine mount console, put screws other way around, does this really matters? couldn't figure out how to use the torque wrench the other way around.
rankamateur Posted February 5, 2014 Posted February 5, 2014 Dennis, Just did mine and all holes lined up with steel parts on the firewall, started at the outside and worked towards the middle on each side, it doesn't stick out so much, I think you will have trouble with your top sheet over the dash now.
Skee Posted February 5, 2014 Author Posted February 5, 2014 Dennis, Just did mine and all holes lined up with steel parts on the firewall, started at the outside and worked towards the middle on each side, it doesn't stick out so much, I think you will have trouble with your top sheet over the dash now. Thing is that i have a friend that bought his kit about the same time as you did last year, and his cowl support angles allot more upwards and needs to be wrinkled so it can angle downwards, so it can look like mine, it does not say in manual that you need to wrinkle it. Chapter 16, pic 11, its wrinkled and comes plain from factory, mine had diff design i think since holes didn't match up when i worked from outside inwards. Friends version, he needs to modify/wrinkle it to get the cowling inbetween.
Kyle Communications Posted February 6, 2014 Posted February 6, 2014 Mine were supposed to be wrinkled and they didn't come wrinkled you had to do it yourself...I opted to fit my cowl on the outside NOT the inside...most here have theirs fitted to the outside if they build them themselves but factory built come with the cowl on the inside
rankamateur Posted February 6, 2014 Posted February 6, 2014 I wrinkled mine with a crimping tool provided by my mentor, to follow the angle of the top skin, and trimmed the front edge of the steel pieces to follow the profile of the top sheet. I will be installing the cowl on the outside of the fuselage. NOTE ALSO the control horns on the throttle bar do not line up with the cable mount when rivetted in the provided holes, the way I first installed mine. Had to drill out and move it out to line up with the fittings on the throttle bar, drill holes in the firewall where required, it almost fouls a larger hole(probrably for a carb heat cable).
rotax618 Posted February 7, 2014 Posted February 7, 2014 Note: the throttle linkage above won't work with the VG bed mount, it is too flexible, may be able to get it to work with more slack in the outer cable. They sure make carbs sync easier and stay in tune longer.
Skee Posted February 9, 2014 Author Posted February 9, 2014 What a weekend =) a full Sunday building. I finally got the parachute in, it was not easy doing alone, so the neighbour was in, he screwed from the cabin while i was crawling inside. The strut support got assembled on both sides. Torque tube is finally there, allot of fiddling to get the right screws fitting, there no mentioning about what screws are for the bellcrank upper mount? And is it only me or does everyones elevator tube stroke the bottom plate? Top skin going on. The alignment on the cabin frame will have to wait, i don't have a engine mount and ICP didn't want to send me the mount for the M09 yet, since there can be changes to it , ill wait two more months on it and the ill consider a ULpower 260 107 bhp, it has the same engine mount as the Jabiru 2200 and ICP has a engine mount for it. Meanwhile i can do all electrics to and finalise the plane where i can build.
Kyle Communications Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 I had to bend my elevator rod to stop it hitting the undercarriage...only a little it didn't need much clearance
rankamateur Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 When squaring the cabin frame, disregard the suggestion in the manual, + or - 5mm on the diagonal. Aim for less than 0.5mm instead, that must be what they meant to type anyway! 1
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