What oil do you use in your Rotax 912ULS?

[ozzietriker]

G'day all,

 

Is there a substitute oil for "Aeroshell Oil Sport Plus 4" that meets the specification for use in a Rotax 912 ULS engine and an oil I can easily get from a motorbike or car shop?

 

I'm finding it very difficult and expensive to source this oil in Perth WA, if there are any substitutes out there that meet the Rotax spec I'd be grateful to hear from you.

 

Thanks

 

Andrew

 

 

[microman]

Some of the guys here use Mobil 1 - its a fully synthetic oil, but the required spec, and easily obtainable.

 

 

[rgmwa]

Some info here that might help. Mobil 1 is on the list.

 

http://legacy.rotaxowner.com/si_tb_info/serviceinfo/si-912-016-r4.pdf

 

rgmwa

 

 

[Neil_S]

Hi Andrew,

 

Shell Advance VSX 4 is pretty easy to get from motorbike stores. We have used it for years in our Rotax 912A.

 

It's on the list (2 different viscosities - I am pretty sure we use 15W50).

 

Cheers

 

Neil

 

 

[Blueadventures]

Hi Andrew,Shell Advance VSX 4 is pretty easy to get from motorbike stores. We have used it for years in our Rotax 912A.

 

It's on the list (2 different viscosities - I am pretty sure we use 15W50).

 

Cheers

 

Neil

I use Shell VSX4 at 15W50 for 912UL.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

[Guest Crezzi]

Shell VSX4 is no longer available in Australia unfortunately

 

Cheers

 

John

 

 

[alf jessup]

Problem with using motorcycle oils ect is oil companies don't have to inform you when they change the additives in them, aircraft oils they do, so what you buy this month may not be exactly the same in 3 months time.

 

Alf

 

 

[Blueadventures]

Problem with using motorcycle oils ect is oil companies don't have to inform you when they change the additives in them, aircraft oils they do, so what you buy this month may not be exactly the same in 3 months time.Alf

Hi Alf

Absolutly agree. The Castrol change is example. They changed the blend and IMO should have changed the name of the oil brand. I've just sent an email to RAA (Darren) suggesting an article in the magazine for the Rotax owners and others information. I'll chase up the aircraft oil brand. Do you use EVVA 15w50 or Skydive areolube 10/40 oil?

 

Thanks for info. Mike

 

 

[alf jessup]

Hi AlfAbsolutly agree. The Castrol change is example. They changed the blend and IMO should have changed the name of the oil brand. I've just sent an email to RAA (Darren) suggesting an article in the magazine for the Rotax owners and others information. I'll chase up the aircraft oil brand. Do you use EVVA 15w50 or Skydive areolube 10/40 oil?

 

Thanks for info. Mike

Hi Mike,

 

No I use the Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 as per what Rotax recommends.

 

Have ever since it came out, first on my 80HP 912 and now on the 100HP and never had any issues with getting it or while using it

 

Alf

 

 

[Blueadventures]

Hi Mike,No I use the Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 as per what Rotax recommends.

 

Have ever since it came out, first on my 80HP 912 and now on the 100HP and never had any issues with getting it or while using it

 

Alf

Thanks Alf. I'll get some for the next oil change. Cheers

Mike

 

 

[facthunter]

There's probably a lot of oils that would be OK for the motor but the redrive shares the engine oil. Not all engine oils are suitable for gears (and the dampening clutch) It's many years since engine oils were suitable for gearboxes, generally. Nev

 

 

[Downunder]

I've read that semi-synthetic only if running avgas as the lead is not kept in suspension with full synthetic.

 

 

[cscotthendry]

Problem with using motorcycle oils ect is oil companies don't have to inform you when they change the additives in them, aircraft oils they do, so what you buy this month may not be exactly the same in 3 months time.Alf

I believe this is what happened to the shell VSX oil. Shell changed the formula (and renamed it) and Rotax took it off their list.

 

 

[nong]

Rotax recommend motorcycle oils as a general idea, because these engines have similar lubrication requirements to motorcycles. To be precise, motorcycle engine oils must also lubricate the primary and secondary reduction gear sets.

 

Downunder's comment about not using a full synthetic with avgas is confirmed in technical papers released by Shell.

 

 

[Marty_d]

To any southern Tasmanian fliers - anyone interested in splitting a carton of Aeroshell Sport Plus 4?

 

I'm trying to source this for my Rotax, the Shell distributers (Motomax down south and his partner in Launceston) prefer to sell full cartons - 12 x 1 L bottles.

I only need 3L I think, happy to buy 6 as the manufacture date is March 24 so I believe it's good til 2028 (read somewhere here that the use by is usually 4 years?) - but really don't need the full 12.

Price for a carton is about $250 so $125 for 6, about $21 per litre.

 

Let me know if you're interested, I can pick the carton up this week or next.  Motomax are happy to copy the release paperwork on the carton so each person gets a copy.

 

Alternatively, if you've already bought too much, I'm happy to buy some off you.

 

Cheers, Marty

Edited March 2 by Marty_d

[onetrack]

Marty - Skyshop has 1 litre bottles on special for $20.50, can you get a friend or relative on the mainland that's heading to Tasmania, to pick some bottles up from Skyshop, and then bring them across in their luggage?

 

Perhaps even someone making a personal flight across, could stow them on board for you?

 

https://www.skyshop.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=1075

[Blueadventures]

14 minutes ago, Marty_d said:

To any southern Tasmanian fliers - anyone interested in splitting a carton of Aeroshell Sport Plus 4?

 

I'm trying to source this for my Rotax, the Shell distributers (Motomax down south and his partner in Launceston) prefer to sell full cartons - 12 x 1 L bottles.

I only need 3L I think, happy to buy 6 as the manufacture date is March 24 so I believe it's good til 2028 (read somewhere here that the use by is usually 4 years?) - but really don't need the full 12.

Price for a carton is about $250 so $125 for 6, about $21 per litre.

 

Let me know if you're interested, I can pick the carton up this week or next.  Motomax are happy to copy the release paperwork on the carton so each person gets a copy.

 

Alternatively, if you've already bought too much, I'm happy to buy some off you.

 

Cheers, Marty

You'll likely do first change at 25 hours and the purge will use a little oil (I'd don't reuse what is collected during purge. Therefore you will need at least 9 litres first fill, 25 hours change and stock on hand for next 50 hourly.  Over to you.

[skippydiesel]

12 minutes ago, Blueadventures said:

You'll likely do first change at 25 hours and the purge will use a little oil (I'd don't reuse what is collected during purge. Therefore you will need at least 9 litres first fill, 25 hours change and stock on hand for next 50 hourly.  Over to you.

Rotax recommended oil & filter change interval is 100 hrs.

I did my first new engine change at 5 hrs + filter change. Second @ 25 hrs oil only. Third @ 50 hrs + filter. From then on oil only at 50 hr intervals - filter @ 100 hr.

 

The"PURGE" has little or nothing to do with oil change intervals per say - its to remove air from the system.  Should only need to be done for a new engine (never run) &  removal/replacement of oil hoses. The very small amount of oil, that is collected during this process, can be returned to the engine.😈

 

38 minutes ago, Marty_d said:

 

I only need 3L I think, happy to buy 6 as the manufacture date is March 24 so I believe it's good til 2028 (read somewhere here that the use by is usually 4 years?) - but really don't need the full 12.

Price for a carton is about $250 so $125 for 6, about $21 per litre.

 

 

The standard refill is 3 L, however it would be wise to have at least another litre on hand, incase your system takes more or you spill some. You will need a little extra (probably 100-200ml) for topping up / 50 hrs.  Total 4 L (MINIMUM) .

 

$21/L is not a bad  price. Last carton I purchased was about $20/L delivered. You will do a lot of research to get a few  $ lower. I split the cost/carton with another Rotax user.

 

Be Warned! There was a Vic supplier offering for about $16/L - then jacking the delivery cost so high, ended up being one of the most expensive.😈

[Marty_d]

44 minutes ago, Blueadventures said:

You'll likely do first change at 25 hours and the purge will use a little oil (I'd don't reuse what is collected during purge. Therefore you will need at least 9 litres first fill, 25 hours change and stock on hand for next 50 hourly.  Over to you.

This is in preparation for first engine start, haven't even painted yet so 50 hours could be years away ☹️

[facthunter]

Purging is only used to prevent over filling and /or get an accurate measure on the stick. With a new engine it will quickly achieve good compression seal and will be slower to check than a motor with a  few 100's of hours. Pull the prop over slowly to allow the compression to pass the rings and push the oil back. Prime the engine fully before the First run. IF you do a lot of ground runs get it properly HOT if you can. Condensation in your motor does it no good. Cut open your oil filter and inspect it at every oil change especially the first one. With new oil in the tank I'd like to ensure there's no air in the system before restarting the Motor.  Nev

[Blueadventures]

36 minutes ago, skippydiesel said:

Rotax recommended oil & filter change interval is 100 hrs.

I did my first new engine change at 5 hrs + filter change. Second @ 25 hrs oil only. Third @ 50 hrs + filter. From then on oil only at 50 hr intervals - filter @ 100 hr.

 

The"PURGE" has little or nothing to do with oil change intervals per say - its to remove air from the system.  Should only need to be done for a new engine (never run) &  removal/replacement of oil hoses. The very small amount of oil, that is collected during this process, can be returned to the engine.😈

 

The standard refill is 3 L, however it would be wise to have at least another litre on hand, incase your system takes more or you spill some. You will need a little extra (probably 100-200ml) for topping up / 50 hrs.  Total 4 L (MINIMUM) .

 

$21/L is not a bad  price. Last carton I purchased was about $20/L delivered. You will do a lot of research to get a few  $ lower. I split the cost/carton with another Rotax user.

 

Be Warned! There was a Vic supplier offering for about $16/L - then jacking the delivery cost so high, ended up being one of the most expensive.😈

Skip; I think you go overboard picking peoples posts apart, specifically my resent one. In my post I generalised that he would be purging the new install of engine, oil cooler and hoses between including the oil can.  Therefore 100% relevant to his post considering his build.  

[skippydiesel]

2 minutes ago, Blueadventures said:

Skip; I think you go overboard picking peoples posts apart, specifically my resent one. In my post I generalised that he would be purging the new install of engine, oil cooler and hoses between including the oil can.  Therefore 100% relevant to his post considering his build.  

I apologies if you feel aggrieved - I understood the subject to be about the amount of oil required & the cost -

"You'll likely do first change at 25 hours and the purge will use a little oil (I'd don't reuse what is collected during purge. Therefore you will need at least 9 litres first fill, 25 hours change and stock on hand for next 50 hourly."

The general thrust  of your statement, I agree with - need more than the 3 L approximate capacity. I used about 12L + over the first 50 hrs.

Your statement about purging & the amount of oil,  is not as I have experienced (now on my second Rotax 912ULS & some 1000+ hrs).

As a possible new engine strategy, I offered my approach (Rotax advise at least one less oil change).

I stand by my advice and intente.😈

 

[Marty_d]

Not a new engine by the way. Ex training Foxbat, changed out at 2000 hrs.

[facthunter]

How long has it been sitting?  Any sign of rust on the valve springs? You may not wish to bother with this at this time.Nev

[onetrack]

Marty, you need to check those bores with a borescope. I've seen fully-reconditioned engines, stored in supposedly good conditions in a warehouse, develop rusty bores within 2 years of storage.

You need to turn the engine over regularly, and having a heat source under the engine, such as a 100W incandescent light globe kept on permanently, will provide an adequate engine temperature minimum, to keep condensation at bay.

If you've had condensation/corrosion problems with tools in your workshop, then you have reason to be concerned as regards engine bores, which never have a decent coating of oil film, that can keep corrosion at bay.