rrogerramjet Posted May 7, 2014 Posted May 7, 2014 http://makerplane.org/ This is the future of manufacturing. 1
bexrbetter Posted May 7, 2014 Posted May 7, 2014 I think it's been done .. But anyway, been a few years of waiting now so I reserve the right to heavily criticise them for not giving me free stuff!!....
old man emu Posted October 13, 2014 Posted October 13, 2014 Yeah, I've got a Prusa i3 with an 8x8x8" print space. I'm printing ABS plastic, but still trying to iron out some problems. I assembled the printer myself from a kit which cost me about $800 landed from the USA. Old Man Emu 1
damo Posted October 13, 2014 Posted October 13, 2014 Instead of buying a 3D printer which you will only use occasionally and be obsolete in months, I would recommend using the following http://www.3dhubs.com/ It is a very simple process and you don't need to worry about the print stage, just design your part, upload it, pay for it and collect it!
Kyle Communications Posted October 13, 2014 Posted October 13, 2014 We have 2 where I work at the moment. We have been very successful making our prototypes for the main project I am designing. Lots of issues with them and you have to make some mods...some work and some don't but in general now we have it on song. So much so another of my jobs is to make a much larger one. Its going pretty well too it will be capable of 4 extruders. Some pics of the axis we have made and now the new frame. printable area will be 600 x 600 x 600
Kyle Communications Posted October 13, 2014 Posted October 13, 2014 The ones we have and are using are a mankati and a Creator they do around 300x260x260
Sloper Posted October 13, 2014 Posted October 13, 2014 l looked at one to do trim parts for cars, but figured l had enough projects at the moment. l would have needed a 3D scanner to go with it. regards Bruce
old man emu Posted October 13, 2014 Posted October 13, 2014 The ones we have and are using are a mankati and a Creator they do around 300x260x260 What slicer software are you using? Are you using an Arduino board and RAMPS? OME
rankamateur Posted October 14, 2014 Posted October 14, 2014 That is a very lifelike stubby you have created in the last photo, hell I can almost smell the beer getting stale in it!
Kyle Communications Posted October 14, 2014 Posted October 14, 2014 I have a arduino controller and a Ramps but my steppers are larger so I am taking the dir and step signals from the ramps and feeding them into a proper stepper driver as the current of my steppers will exceed the ramps ones We use Spaceclaim for the modelling and the Mankati software to do the printing. glenn does like some new software he got can't remember the name at the moment. i handle the electronics and other stuff Glenn is much better and faster with the software than me so I do the hardware
Kyle Communications Posted October 14, 2014 Posted October 14, 2014 got to have brain food while you work Steve
Jabiru7252 Posted October 15, 2014 Posted October 15, 2014 How much to print me a woman? She must be very feminine and petite as well as easily dominated and possessed. I'll pay cash.
Kyle Communications Posted October 15, 2014 Posted October 15, 2014 http://disinfo.com/2014/09/lifelike-sex-robots-human-immortality-right-around-corner-says-novelist/ read the second paragraph seems to fit the bill for you :)
old man emu Posted October 15, 2014 Posted October 15, 2014 I have a arduino controller and a Ramps but my steppers are larger What NEMA size are your steppers? OME
Kyle Communications Posted October 15, 2014 Posted October 15, 2014 Using nema 23 but 175 oz units for X&Y the Z axis I have some stronger nema 23 units we have 2 of them running the platform via 2 ballscrews the steppers are in parallel from the drivers. I am using better drivers than the 335 ones on ebay the ones I use are from the Syil CNC milling machines I bring in they perform heaps better than the M335 you see on ebay. We tried the M335 and thy just don't cut the mustard. I am running the 175 oz ones at 2.3 amps seems to be the best setting. The X&Y we are using toothed belts as you can see and it works ok but I thick we will convert them to ballscrew as well. The screws and nuts are not expensive as they don't need to be ground just rolled versions C5 or so. Got most of our stuff like the liner bearings and blocks also screws and nuts and ground SS shafts from http://www.linearbearings.com.au Still developing it all but it is looking very promising Mark
old man emu Posted October 15, 2014 Posted October 15, 2014 Are you using a heated print bed, and if so, how did you make the heating pad. Just a tip: If you are using a heated pad, fit an auto horn relay using the output from the RAMPS board as the current to pull the switch. That way you can run more than 12V through your pad. OME
Kyle Communications Posted October 15, 2014 Posted October 15, 2014 Actually not this time we have had better success not using heat we just use a mix of plastic with acetone as a thin base and the parts stick fine. Had too much trouble with the occasion print job lifting on a corner with the heated bed
old man emu Posted October 16, 2014 Posted October 16, 2014 If you are using Marlin as your firmware, go to this forum: http://3dprintboard.com/forumdisplay.php?87-Firmware-Enhancements-to-Marlin I follow 3dprintboard.com OME
Kyle Communications Posted October 16, 2014 Posted October 16, 2014 Here is a better pic of its size and construction
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