Gnarly Gnu Posted June 23, 2014 Posted June 23, 2014 Yes I will not start the poly uretane painting until I find a good full-face respirator. Ha ha I was thinking about inserting a joke about the alternative method of hiring a cheap illegal immigrant to do the job if you didn't want to spend up on the respirator.... but no, being a nice Gnu I wouldn't do such a poor taste non-PC joke of course. I hope it goes well! Be sure to post some photos of progress.
rankamateur Posted June 24, 2014 Posted June 24, 2014 On the Savannah manual, the drawings are usually on the following page not the facing page which detracts from the clarity of the instructions, not mention that Italglish is a sometimes flawed translation, "being careful not the making of confusion"!
Hasse Posted June 24, 2014 Author Posted June 24, 2014 Hi guys, I just want you to know that I started the Engine today - for the first time. All went OK but as I had mounted the mag switches upside down it took some time before I realised my mistake. Not easy to get the Engine running with mags in off position :-). Apart from that all motor instruments looked ok but it seems that I have a small leakage in the "spider" connection for the fuel. This is strange as I was quite careful to add glue on the threads (or whatever you call it) to get it tight. Anyone who recognise this kind of leakage? I posted a picture o a happy builder. Hasse 4
Hasse Posted June 24, 2014 Author Posted June 24, 2014 I'm NO expert but I use a lot of the flat green aviation etch, with metal surfaces. I'm presuming your plane is Al sheet. and needs an etch. There is no need for any great thickness of this paint. A light misting is all you need and don't have a lot of humidity. Preclean well and control dust. This etch should have been used in the laps of your riveted joints if you are worried about corrosion. Nev Hi Nev, On your recommendation (and a few others) I will use the etch primer (a yellow green stuff) in stead of the epoxy primer. I will spray it thin (just one layer) and add the first poly uretane coat on top within 12 hours after the primer. Then wait until the layer is tacky ( 5-10 min) and add the second and final coat layer. This means that I have to divide the paint project into five parts ( miscelanious small loose parts, rudder/ailerons/elevator/stabilator, left wing, right wing, fuselage and cowling) and wash, clean with prokote, prime and paint each part one at the time. This will probably take at least three weeks to complete. Well, I'm not in a hurry. Hasse
Skee Posted June 24, 2014 Posted June 24, 2014 Hello HansMy Savannah S project is 11 months along in my mothers lounge room(because my wife won't let it in her house) also ready to paint but my motor is still in the box, I share your lack of painting experience, it is a bit frightening to start with no experience so it has stalled the progress somewhat. Dennis is on the forums (Skee), buiding one in Sweden in his loungeroom also. Not such a strange thing to do afterall. All the best Steve... I actually know "Hasse" ive been to his place a few times and we have been talking allot. Hi guys,I just want you to know that I started the Engine today - for the first time. All went OK but as I had mounted the mag switches upside down it took some time before I realised my mistake. Not easy to get the Engine running with mags in off position :-). Apart from that all motor instruments looked ok but it seems that I have a small leakage in the "spider" connection for the fuel. This is strange as I was quite careful to add glue on the threads (or whatever you call it) to get it tight. Anyone who recognise this kind of leakage? I posted a picture o a happy builder. Hasse Startade du motorn utan mig! (Did you start the engine without me!) Congratulations, myself ive decided on the D-Motor and is pulling the wires for it now.
rankamateur Posted June 24, 2014 Posted June 24, 2014 but it seems that I have a small leakage in the "spider" connection for the fuel. This is strange as I was quite careful to add glue on the threads (or whatever you call it) to get it tight.Anyone who recognise this kind of leakage? Don't feel too special, you are not alone, it' s a bit of a lottery. Startade du motorn utan mig! It's obviously a private intimate moment, not to be share, like carrying her across the threashold! 1
Hasse Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 I actually know "Hasse" ive been to his place a few times and we have been talking allot. Startade du motorn utan mig! (Did you start the engine without me!) Congratulations, myself ive decided on the D-Motor and is pulling the wires for it now. Sorry Dennis! Couldn't keep away from the Engine. Some kind of magnetic itch :-) Anyway, the chinese version of Scotch brite has arrieved. Thanks. But you know Dennis, the amount you ordered for me is enough to clean a fleet of B-757. So, you've decided on the D-motor. Was it the weight, efficiency, reliability or cost that made you to take the D-motor and not the Rotax? See you soon Hasse
facthunter Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 I think you are" ON THE BALL" with the paint. Final coats wet on wet with enough time between them to prevent runs. If you leave it too long you have to roughen up the surface for adhesion and that is a mistake. I've seen corrosion under urethane, when not done properly. You can't touch up a lot of modern finishes and stripping them is difficult. Thick coats chip easily especially if a Primer /surfacer with a lot of build is used underneath . Nev
Hasse Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 I think you are" ON THE BALL" with the paint. Final coats wet on wet with enough time between them to prevent runs. If you leave it too long you have to roughen up the surface for adhesion and that is a mistake.I've seen corrosion under urethane, when not done properly. You can't touch up a lot of modern finishes and stripping them is difficult. Thick coats chip easily especially if a Primer /surfacer with a lot of build is used underneath . Nev Ok, thanks Nev. I will try this scheme. Starting with something less preciaous. How durable? Well, time will tell. Anyway, painting need not be top quality - wing assembly should. Hasse
facthunter Posted June 26, 2014 Posted June 26, 2014 Indeed, and corrosion considerations where applicable. Nev
Skee Posted June 26, 2014 Posted June 26, 2014 Sorry Dennis! Couldn't keep away from the Engine. Some kind of magnetic itch :-)Anyway, the chinese version of Scotch brite has arrieved. Thanks. But you know Dennis, the amount you ordered for me is enough to clean a fleet of B-757. So, you've decided on the D-motor. Was it the weight, efficiency, reliability or cost that made you to take the D-motor and not the Rotax? See you soon Hasse LoL,, a few 757,, then you can practise some before your Savannah,, still it was cheap =) God created earth but rest is Made in China!....
rankamateur Posted June 26, 2014 Posted June 26, 2014 I am well into my second pack of ten, like most things made in china, they look like the real deal but don't perform as well ,so you will throw a fair few away with fairly little use.
eightyknots Posted June 26, 2014 Posted June 26, 2014 . Sorry Dennis! Couldn't keep away from the Engine. Some kind of magnetic itch :-)Anyway, the chinese version of Scotch brite has arrieved. Thanks. But you know Dennis, the amount you ordered for me is enough to clean a fleet of B-757. So, you've decided on the D-motor. Was it the weight, efficiency, reliability or cost that made you to take the D-motor and not the Rotax? See you soon Hasse I am interested in why you chose the relatively new D-Motor too, Skee!
Skee Posted June 26, 2014 Posted June 26, 2014 I am interested in why you chose the relatively new D-Motor too, Skee! I've been bombarding D-motor with questions and Alain keeps answering them instantly, compared Icp that take 3 days to several weeks. D-motor has about 50 flying samples while Icp engine isn't flying yet and keep pushing it, maybe flying in September. D motor used jabiru engine mount witch Icp have. The engine is simple (uses some readily av, auto parts), small/tiny, light 59 kg with fluids (10kg less than rotax) I need low weight cause of the strict weight regulations to keep it a microlight, don't want to redo my license from scratch for a heavier class. I want a Fuel efficient engine, injection really does it, so with about 12L/H@75% and 150L fuel i really can go distances. only 7 HP less than Rotax i dont think i will notice any diff. I get a good discount. They plan on turbo further on to keep performance at higher altitude. Earlier issues they have had they fixed immediately by driving to customer and examining it, so they have a good reputation. 1 1
eightyknots Posted June 26, 2014 Posted June 26, 2014 I've been bombarding D-motor with questions and Alain keeps answering them instantly, compared Icp that take 3 days to several weeks.D-motor has about 50 flying samples while Icp engine isn't flying yet and keep pushing it, maybe flying in September. D motor used jabiru engine mount witch Icp have. The engine is simple (uses some readily av, auto parts), small/tiny, light 59 kg with fluids (10kg less than rotax) I need low weight cause of the strict weight regulations to keep it a microlight, don't want to redo my license from scratch for a heavier class. I want a Fuel efficient engine, injection really does it, so with about 12L/H@75% and 150L fuel i really can go distances. only 7 HP less than Rotax i dont think i will notice any diff. I get a good discount. They plan on turbo further on to keep performance at higher altitude. Earlier issues they have had they fixed immediately by driving to customer and examining it, so they have a good reputation. According to this Rotax 912ULS 100hp specification sheet, you can only run it at maximum power (5,800 revs per minute) for one minute! http://www.zenithair.com/pdf-doc/912uls-100hp.pdf How long can the D Motor run for at maximum power?
SDQDI Posted June 26, 2014 Posted June 26, 2014 According to this Rotax 912ULS 100hp specification sheet, you can only run it at maximum power (5,800 revs per minute) for one minute! http://www.zenithair.com/pdf-doc/912uls-100hp.pdfHow long can the D Motor run for at maximum power? I wonder if that was a mistake I'm 90% sure that my manual says 5minutes at 5800, although it is the 914 I will have to check again.
Skee Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 How long can the D Motor run for at maximum power? Alain to the rescue,, hes really quick. Hi, Max RPM 3000 max 5 minutes. Max continuous RPM 2800. Of course within temperature limits. Kind regards Alain Dejager
eightyknots Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 Alain to the rescue,, hes really quick. Hi, Max RPM 3000 max 5 minutes. Max continuous RPM 2800. Of course within temperature limits. Kind regards Alain Dejager Thanks, Skee. 5 minutes should get you to well over 3,000 feet (about 1 km) above airfield level. 1
facthunter Posted June 28, 2014 Posted June 28, 2014 Max power is what it says. Meto is max except take off Max continuous is what it says. Time limitations are normally applied where the engine uses itself as a heat sink at higher power settings and is usually a feature of the Larger or supercharged engines operation.. There are also overspeed figures for engines. (Too many revs). On a fixed pitch prop you will only get that in a power on dive generally Stipulating a time limit on simpler small motors might be overcomplicating things. Good engine handling( airmanship) and lower power settings will generally improve engine life. Eg running a gypsy at 1950 rpm will have it last better than running at 2050. Lower revs on large radials and most engines will improve fuel consumption. Friction is rpm squared. Nev 2
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