Fuel Tank Sealants

[keefy]

Has anyone had any experience using fuel tank sealants. I want a product that can be poured into an alumium tank, 'sloshed' around the welds then tipped out and when dried or cured and will have sealed any pin holes within the seams or welds. There appears to be a few 2 pack products that claim to do the job but most are only available in the US and can't or won't be shipped.

 

I have been offered Red-Kote in Brisbane, I'm told this is a single pack product that air dries and is very good for rusted steel tanks ie. vintage motorcycles etc. However Im not sure of its effectiveness on aluminium.

 

This tank has been used with 2 stroke fuel therefore the fuel residue is sticky with oil. I intend washing with M E K, drying it then hot soapy water then repeat the process before using any sealant.

 

I do not want to weld anything on this tank, any advice will be appreciated.

 

 

[old man emu]

Give Aviall a call. They import dangerous goods of the type you want, so you can get over the "can't or won't " ship problem.

 

www.aviall.com/frontdoor/locations/australia/

 

OME

 

 

[rgmwa]

I don't have any experience with slosh compounds and no opinion one way or the other, but for what it's worth Vans don't recommend them for the RV fuel tanks: http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb11-9-13.pdf

 

rgmwa

 

 

[Camel]

http://www.kreem.com/fueltankliner.html

 

This is the product used in Jabiru fuel tanks.

 

 

[bexrbetter]

When I was working at BJ's Bikes and Bits in Brisbane (that's Brisbane, Queensland, not Perth or South America where I have never been), I "Kreem'ed" a number of tanks as old British steel tanks often have a bit of rot inside them.

 

Seemed to work ok, need to pay a bit of attention while it's setting to turn the tank around 3 dimensionally often to get it evenly spread throughout. No doubt Chris still sells it (Deshon St, Wooloongabba).

 

 

[Russ]

there is a product used in our "GA" workshops, ( forget it's name ).....so see a lame guy

 

 

[Guest Maj Millard]

I have sealed leaks in alum tanks at the welds with standard two- part GA style tank sealant by applying it externally over leak points. This stuff is normally used to seal Cessna wet-wing aircraft such as the C182 RG and does the job against all fuels, applies well when mixed to the right consistency and does the job drying well overnight.

 

Think it is called PRC tank sealant.

 

 

[Yenn]

Ross I think what you are referring to is "proseal". It is what RV recommends for their rivetted tanks and works well. I could not guarantee that it would work when applied externally, but I did have a slight leak in one of my tanks that I fixed that way. 2 years of usage and it is still fine. I got mine from Vans, but Aircraft Spruce also supply it and no doubt there would be Australian suppliers. I have found geting stuff from the states is both cheaper nad quicker than trying locally. Sad but true.

 

Proseal is a 2 part mix, which needs weighing in 10:1 proportions. If you only need a little, just mix until you get a very dark black colour, grey is not satisfactory, although it will go off with time. The small quantities can be hard to measure and it is not the nicest stuff to handle, will stick to everything, although MEK will dissolve it before it sets up.

 

 

[Guest Maj Millard]

Ross I think what you are referring to is "proseal". It is what RV recommends for their rivetted tanks and works well. I could not guarantee that it would work when applied externally, but I did have a slight leak in one of my tanks that I fixed that way. 2 years of usage and it is still fine. I got mine from Vans, but Aircraft Spruce also supply it and no doubt there would be Australian suppliers. I have found geting stuff from the states is both cheaper nad quicker than trying locally. Sad but true.Proseal is a 2 part mix, which needs weighing in 10:1 proportions. If you only need a little, just mix until you get a very dark black colour, grey is not satisfactory, although it will go off with time. The small quantities can be hard to measure and it is not the nicest stuff to handle, will stick to everything, although MEK will dissolve it before it sets up.

That's it Yenn....comes in different working times, 2 minute ...5 minute etc but generally needs to be left overnight for a fuel ready cure. Good stuff that does the job.

 

 

[pylon500]

And to add;

 

I used to use the stuff in the RAAF, and at Bankstown.

 

Used to be some referred to as PR 1422, or 'Goop', and was available with the suffix of A or B, plus, 1/2 or 2.

 

The suffixes refer to viscosity and cure time; A= runny, B= thick, 1/2= half hour cure, 2= two hour cure.

 

As Maj says, best to leave overnight for a full cure before adding fuel.

 

This stuff is SERIOUSLY expensive, and over the years we've been getting less and less in the standard size tubes.

 

I think there is a generic version (or two) available on the market, probably from the likes of Aviall.

 

I can't guarantee that it wont be affected by ethanol fuels or two stroke oils, and if the tank has had fuel in it previously, it must be perfectly clean before repairs/re-seals.

 

By the way it's too thick to slosh.

 

Some names would be;

 

PRC,

 

Pro-seal,

 

Courtaulds (CS3204?)

 

3M,

 

and I think CRC.

 

Have a look at the spruce catalogue, and try various local outlets;

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/fueltanksealants.html?pageno=1

 

 

[keefy]

And to add;I used to use the stuff in the RAAF, and at Bankstown.

Used to be some referred to as PR 1422, or 'Goop', and was available with the suffix of A or B, plus, 1/2 or 2.

 

The suffixes refer to viscosity and cure time; A= runny, B= thick, 1/2= half hour cure, 2= two hour cure.

 

As Maj says, best to leave overnight for a full cure before adding fuel.

 

This stuff is SERIOUSLY expensive, and over the years we've been getting less and less in the standard size tubes.

 

I think there is a generic version (or two) available on the market, probably from the likes of Aviall.

 

I can't guarantee that it wont be affected by ethanol fuels or two stroke oils, and if the tank has had fuel in it previously, it must be perfectly clean before repairs/re-seals.

 

By the way it's too thick to slosh.

 

Some names would be;

 

PRC,

 

Pro-seal,

 

Courtaulds (CS3204?)

 

3M,

 

and I think CRC.

 

Have a look at the spruce catalogue, and try various local outlets;

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/fueltanksealants.html?pageno=1

[keefy]

Thank you everyone I really appreciate your comments. I have decided to make a new tank from heavier guage material containing 50 ltrs not 55 (plenty for my purposes) to compensate for the additional weight in construction.

 

The tank will be more robust and with better welding I will feel a lot better, also the cost to me will be less than $200. Just the fact of discussing this on the forum has given me the chance to look at the problem objectivley and think about it has helped me greatly.

 

Thanks everyone.

 

 

[Yenn]

With a welded tank you have to use a fairly thick gauge of material.

 

Using Proseal or its equivalent you can make a rivetted tank of lighter gauge aluminium and in the RVs the tank becomes the leading part of the wing.

 

 

[pylon500]

The temptation is to make a simple square tank with square corners.

 

Most of the weldable alloys are not too strong (without increasing thickness), and the flat surfaces are subject to oil canning, which will work on the welds.

 

Tank needs to be well supported to avoid cracking in the corners, even the top surface will flex and encourage cracks along the welds.

 

Don't forget baffles..

 

And a dedicated low point with sump to collect the water that occurs in metal tanks.