Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ribs ???

 

A question. Manual is a little vague.

 

On the cables. One nylon block on the rear of each rib. 4 5 and 6. The a block on both sides of the longeron ???

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

14456495963421181525454.jpg.3d3eec5c96c5b798e8aba78d3e3b5a12.jpg

 

1445649608564376079033.jpg.91b01597c1ab2aa213237282fcbe6a7a.jpg

 

 

  • Replies 683
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted
Ribs ???A question. Manual is a little vague.

On the cables. One nylon block on the rear of each rib. 4 5 and 6. The a block on both sides of the longeron ???

 

Thanks Lyndon

No, leave the most forward nylon block to go on the seat front when you do the cabin/forward fuselage.

 

 

Posted
Then I seem to have one block left over. I have five of them. ??

Have a look in the section called "controls"

Should be a picture like the one below.

 

I put the numbers in, see 5 nylon blocks

 

edit : there is a trapezoidal shaped one that goes thu the skin right at the back

 

12594663_controlcable.jpg.4de1da9f4f4ce79b817b87c5f4845106.jpg

 

 

Posted

Thanks. Looks like number four block goes in between the ribs and the control longeron. Will have another look.

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted

Yep I have already fitted a5 rivets . Found that out pretty much on the first one

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

 

Posted
Ribs ???A question. Manual is a little vague.

On the cables. One nylon block on the rear of each rib. 4 5 and 6. The a block on both sides of the longeron ???

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

Have a look in the section called "controls"Should be a picture like the one below.

I put the numbers in, see 5 nylon blocks

 

edit : there is a trapezoidal shaped one that goes thu the skin right at the back

 

[ATTACH=full]38946[/ATTACH]

These need longer rivets than supplied in the kit too, to do the job properly. The standard supplied rivets barely come through the plastic to engage the aluminium. Once sheeted they are very difficult(read next to impossible) to drill out to replace with longer rivets.

 

So that "these"

 

 

  • Informative 1
Posted

Gunna have a go at mocking up the fuselage skins today on the ribs. Looks awkward. Any tips.

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

 

Posted
Gunna have a go at mocking up the fuselage skins today on the ribs. Looks awkward. Any tips.Thanks Lyndon

Get every copper cleco you own ready, anywhere up to one every fourth hole along the outer angles.

 

 

Posted

Make sure when you get to riveting, Start in the middle of each piece and rivet towards the outside. Think "smoothing out the wrinkles". If you go the other way you will carry tension into the middle and there will be nowhere for it to go.

 

 

  • Caution 1
Posted
Outer. Angles ??? Meaning the four corner longerons ???

Yes. Note they have shorter inner lonerons as well near the front end of the rear fuselage section where the seat backs start. At this point, from memory you end up trying to line up about four layers. Don't drill holes to make them fit, just keep wriggling the holes with a 1/8" mandrel in the hole either side of the cleco until they are happy.

 

 

Posted

You seem to be powering along Lyndon and it is quite addictive seeing things take shape and forgetting about the going on's in the world and those around you:smile: . As Rankamateur said if you haven't yet then get your hands on plenty of Cleco's.

 

I had my whole fuselage cleco together before I started with the riveting in case of any unforeseen problems.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Happy with it. Time to relax now. One question. Seems to make sense to leave one side off and rivet up three sides. For acces etc. But I'm guessing the answer is get all four clecoed then rivet.

 

14457487040611181525454.jpg.89d99eefc347f0a59ed8f09c5a88123d.jpg

 

1445748731843376079033.jpg.d5188e281ee9d680beb00978c0ba3270.jpg

 

 

Posted

One question. Button up the fuse. Nothing I need to do. Eg cables wiring. ??? All can be done easily afterwards. ???

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted
One question. Button up the fuse. Nothing I need to do. Eg cables wiring. ??? All can be done easily afterwards. ???Lyndon

Yes you could put in electric trim cable and battery cable and battery box (if you are having battery at the back hatch), and baggage compartment back and bottom, unless you want to torture yourself trying to crawl in there and rivet it afterwards.

 

 

Posted

I will do all that. But the battery. What is the advantage of fitting in the rear. I'm thinking lithium ion in where the kit suggests. ???

 

 

Posted

Lyndon,

 

Re your rudder cables and wearing blocks.

 

Note that the rudder cables are left and right specific: they are NOT interchangeable. The difference is in the rear block on the cables where they exit the fuselage. The holes on these will not match if they are interchanged. Take care!

 

Regards,

 

Bob

 

 

Posted

Thanks. Will double check. I believe I fitted them correct but will check with the skins.

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

 

Posted

This is doing my head in. Minor problem the ribs a and b don't quite line up with the bottom skin.

 

The big thing is I can't make sense of the angulars the bottoms make no sense. Holes are completely mis matched. I'm sure it's me but can't seem to work it out

 

Lyndon

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...