Lyndons Savannah VG Thread

[Kyle Communications]

http://www.recreationalflying.com/threads/another-new-savannah-xl-on-its-way.10493/page-12

[Lyndon]

On initial inspection they are all still honed nicely. At best I will give them a wipe with a scotch brite.

 

Lyndon

 

 

[Lyndon]

I see by build pics that these fit similar to the tail plastics. Eg some aluminum fitted and then fit these to the aluminum. They need to be on top as it's too small to slide over and rivet. But my parts manual shows no such parts ???

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

 

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Its in my blog Lyndon how I did them. BUT there are parts in your kit that are not specified in the manuals that you use...its a strip that has rounded petals on it and it is at right angles.People use them...I did something different and I think it was much better and would do the same again

 

 

[Lyndon]

No worries. I improvise and fit them on top.

 

Not a biggie but I can't find a regulator slash rectifier in my kit ???

 

No exhaust manifold gaskets I take it ???

 

Does the Rotax come with the hose fittings on the oil tank as mine didn't

 

Last but not least. Before I start painting I don't need to run cables or wires anywhere in the plane. Eg wings and tail plane. ( I have to wiring for the stab control already in place )

 

Lyndon

 

 

[Lyndon]

I'm doing the wheels as I'm waiting for parts. Are they serious. Tubes don't line up with the rims. Holes are in the center. Tubes are off set. What's the go. New rims or tubes or what. Surely a puncture or the tube will be holed while in the middle of nowhere. Or as rough as they are do they work. I'm thinking of 're drilling the rims for valve stem

 

Lyndon

 

 

[Skee]

It's in the manual, you need to re drill,

 

Or buy new tubes with centered fillers, or buy new beringer aero wheels

 

 

[Skee]

Also allot of lube and be VERY careful when assembling otherwise you will puncture tube

 

 

[Lyndon]

Fantastic. I will look into it.

 

Lyndon

 

 

[rankamateur]

Buy new tubes with right angle centred brass stems. Redrill nothing, go together like a piece of cake, through the provided half holes. If you do go the redrilling route, fit the provided black plastic plugs in the original holes, be aware that the supplied tyres are very thin in the bead and if you upgrade the tyres later, their bead will be much thicker and once again the stem won't come out the hole. You will then have to weld up the hole and redrill further from the rim flange.

 

 

[Lyndon]

Thanks. I will make a call tomorrow and I think centered right angle tubes are the go.

 

Lyndon

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

The condor wheels I got I made sure the tubes I got had the offset fillers...they are easy to fit and no extra holes required

 

 

[Lyndon]

Yep I agree. Will sort tomorrow and order them

 

 

[Lyndon]

I have drilled the rims. Easy done and my reasoning is. My tundra tyres came with expensive aircraft tubes that have offset valves. So that leaves me with three of the supplied tubes. So if all are the same they will all take the Two spare tubes that I now have. I'm sure the front condor with the cheap tube will be fine as the tyre is very robust. As my primary issue will puncture resistance.

 

Lyndon

 

 

 

[rankamateur]

Are the tundra tyres as thick in the bead as the Condor? Condors won't go on if you drill the rim as per the manual, you will only have 2/3 of a hole to pull the stem out.

 

 

[rankamateur]

Where your rims black from the factory or did you paint them?

 

 

[Lyndon]

Surprisingly I went through the manual twenty times and could not find where the drilling instructions are. Some verniers and with all three measured they are all the same. I fitted up a tundra with the ride on mower tube. All interchangeable and very happy with how they all fitted up.

 

Lyndon

 

 

[Ultralights]

nice nosewheels!

 

 

[Lyndon]

Nope that's me and my paint gun. Lot of prep but all done in Saturn two pack. Basically nothing on the plane will not at least have a lick of two pack primer.

 

Lyndon

 

 

[Lyndon]

Does someone have a link to the manual for my disc brakes. My manual has drum brakes and the kit has discs.

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

 

[Lyndon]

I've got nothing about discs in my manual. From what I see you remove the caliper or the rotor to facilitate the wheel removal ???. Pretty sure I have it correct.

 

Lyndon

 

 

[Lyndon]

The brakes are absolute junk. Nothing fits. The spacers don't. It also looks like to remove the wheel you remove the rotor first. That with unsealed bearings. What an absolute mish mash

 

 

 

[rick morawski]

The brakes are absolute junk. Nothing fits. The spacers don't. It also looks like to remove the wheel you remove the rotor first. That with unsealed bearings. What an absolute mish mash

When you get over the hissy fit you will ream out the slide tubes to fit, removes the rotors to fit the wheel, and seal the bearings with felt washers or o rings and get on with it.

 

Yes the older brakes were not the best, they have improved since, but unless you spend big bucks like Skee and buy Behringer replacements you just make do. Note that the older models like yours will expose the seal on the piston when the disc pads are only about 2/3rds worn and empty your fluid on the ground- not good if your doing a short landing! Remedy is to glue a 50 cent piece on top of the piston when they are about half worn. Crude but works.

 

Most people use Auto trans fluid for brake fluid. Use the low strength pink loctite on the screws when you put the discs back on unless you're going to drill and lock wire them.

 

 

[Lyndon]

Fantastic. At least I'm not alone. Or doing anything wrong. They are just shit from. That I can deal with. As long as it's not me.

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

 

[Lyndon]

I have three of these. I have three wheels. Am I missing something ???

 

They are steel and look to same as my fuselage cage.

 

Lyndon