rick morawski Posted January 8, 2016 Posted January 8, 2016 I have three of these. I have three wheels. Am I missing something ???They are steel and look to same as my fuselage cage. Lyndon They are Spacer ring SR025 Chapter 20 page 1 Chapter 21 page 1
Lyndon Posted January 8, 2016 Author Posted January 8, 2016 Camshaft. After many sleepless nights I'm getting the cam reground along with the lifters. At 150 bucks it cheap and it's done properly. It's very little work to get it out with none or very little cost in parts. As you see it's pretty good. It looks worse than it is as you can only just feel spalling. Strangely it's only on the rear lobes there is wear. Lyndon
Lyndon Posted January 9, 2016 Author Posted January 9, 2016 Does anyone know the torque settings for tha case bolts. Or where I can them. Seems to be nothing on the net where I'm looking. Lyndon
Lyndon Posted January 12, 2016 Author Posted January 12, 2016 Wings and long range tanks. I have bought the long range tanks. About to skin the wings. Any tips. I'm thinking skin the top as per manual. Dummy fit the tanks and cut the filler hole. Then rivet up the top skin. Flip it over and fit the bottom skin. With the tank in place I can then cut it accurately. Basically dummy fit up. Common sense then cut. Any tips would be great. Nothing in the manual re the long range tanks. Thanks Lyndon
rick morawski Posted January 13, 2016 Posted January 13, 2016 Wings and long range tanks. I have bought the long range tanks. About to skin the wings. Any tips. I'm thinking skin the top as per manual. Dummy fit the tanks and cut the filler hole. Then rivet up the top skin. Flip it over and fit the bottom skin. With the tank in place I can then cut it accurately. Basically dummy fit up. Common sense then cut.Any tips would be great. Nothing in the manual re the long range tanks. Thanks Lyndon Hi Lyndon Easier if you cut the holes for the extra tank while the skin is on the bench (uninstalled) Basically just copy the existing holes to the next outboard bay and cut out. Rivet up all the skins then install the tanks making sure you centre the filler neck in the hole. run the hoses and rivet on the covers and jury strut attachments. Note that the 10mm hole for the vent line will have to be moved inboard a little as it intersects with the edge of the extra tank
Lyndon Posted January 13, 2016 Author Posted January 13, 2016 Thanks for. I feel a lot better about cutting it now. It's something you don't want to get wrong. Lyndon
rankamateur Posted January 13, 2016 Posted January 13, 2016 Do a test cut on scrap. I found I got a cleaner finish cutting through from the underside when I did use the hole saw. My wing skins were the first lot pre cut for extended tanks so they are what they are, machine cut.
Lyndon Posted January 13, 2016 Author Posted January 13, 2016 The 10 mm hole that has to be moved is the existing one I take it. Lyndon
rick morawski Posted January 13, 2016 Posted January 13, 2016 The 10 mm hole that has to be moved is the existing one I take it.Lyndon yes
Lyndon Posted January 13, 2016 Author Posted January 13, 2016 Great just priming all the skins and hopefully on the weekend get cutting and riveting. Lyndon
Lyndon Posted January 15, 2016 Author Posted January 15, 2016 About to cut. Now before I do. What are these holes used for. I have three the same out of the four. I'm thinking it should be two and two. If they are just a vent I'm sure it doesn't matter. Lyndon
Lyndon Posted January 15, 2016 Author Posted January 15, 2016 Thoughts. I see some people rivnut these panels on. Seems like a lot of riv nuts. Lyndon
rick morawski Posted January 15, 2016 Posted January 15, 2016 About to cut. Now before I do. What are these holes used for. I have three the same out of the four. I'm thinking it should be two and two. If they are just a vent I'm sure it doesn't matter.Lyndon They are drain holes in case you get a fuel leak. They should be at the inboard rear of each cover panel.
Lyndon Posted January 15, 2016 Author Posted January 15, 2016 Well will have to drill the hole out as one will be inverted with the lip inwards. Won't be an issue. Ta
Lyndon Posted January 15, 2016 Author Posted January 15, 2016 All done. Now to do the top filler holes
Lyndon Posted January 15, 2016 Author Posted January 15, 2016 I take it these two angulars are not not fitted with the long range tanks ??? Lyndon
rick morawski Posted January 15, 2016 Posted January 15, 2016 I take it these two angulars are not not fitted with the long range tanks ???Lyndon Correct
Lyndon Posted January 15, 2016 Author Posted January 15, 2016 Thank you. When I get to the bottom skin is the same applied. Thanks Lyndon
rick morawski Posted January 15, 2016 Posted January 15, 2016 Thank you. When I get to the bottom skin is the same applied. Thanks Lyndon Yep
Lyndon Posted January 15, 2016 Author Posted January 15, 2016 I'm.jumping the gun here. But what stops it flapping around. Also obviously I just rivet up the blank holes Lyndon
rick morawski Posted January 15, 2016 Posted January 15, 2016 what stops it flapping around. Your underpants I hope.Haha couldn't resist. I'm guessing you mean the top skin flapping. The fuel tank is hard up against the underside of the top skin, the bottom panel has the tank support bar to stop that rattling too much.
rick morawski Posted January 15, 2016 Posted January 15, 2016 Just thought- don't put rivets in the top skin tank space because they will rub against the plastic tank and possibly cause a leak. Just cut a strip of skin from the scrap cutout about 20-25 wide and glue it over the holes with sikaflex.
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