Lyndon Posted January 15, 2016 Author Posted January 15, 2016 Excellent. Now the three skins on each wing. Can I rivet the the top. The bottom. Then the front. Or do need to divide all the clecos up for all three. It should rivet up perfectly one at a time but in practice I'm sure this won't work. Thoughts ??? Lyndon
rick morawski Posted January 15, 2016 Posted January 15, 2016 I usually cleco top and nose top, then rivet the entire top, so the bottom part of the nose skin is hanging down, then flip over (someone to help is good) and cleco bottom and two trailing edge skins, then use straps and a long piece of timber to bring the leading edge back around to the main spar, then a lot of wiggling the podger to get the main spar clecoes in and rivet up. Piece of pi** That's how I do it, the way you suggested would work as well.
Lyndon Posted January 15, 2016 Author Posted January 15, 2016 Makes sense. Thanks will give it a shot on the weekend. Lyndon
rick morawski Posted January 15, 2016 Posted January 15, 2016 glue it over the holes with sikaflex. Of course the strip goes on the inside before the tanks go in
Skee Posted January 15, 2016 Posted January 15, 2016 I got my aircraft wings precut from factory, really smooth. 1
Lyndon Posted January 16, 2016 Author Posted January 16, 2016 Before I close up the wings. I see some people have lights or strobes. I don't need these to legally fly the plane. Lyndon
rick morawski Posted January 16, 2016 Posted January 16, 2016 Before I close up the wings. I see some people have lights or strobes. I don't need these to legally fly the plane.Lyndon Correct
Kyle Communications Posted January 16, 2016 Posted January 16, 2016 I found using 2 bits of wood at 90 deg like in the photos worked better than the 1 piece I used on the first wing. I did it by myself it was easy
Lyndon Posted January 20, 2016 Author Posted January 20, 2016 Getting somewhere on the first wing. The second will take about 10 mins. I'm sure there are parts that arnt even mentioned in the manual. Then in the parts list are incorrect. But it all makes sense as I build it. Question. In the real world when I use a sealer on the fuel outlets after drilling the plastic tanks. Does any one have a preferred sealer when they look back with experience. I'm expecting to seal these tanks up for many years with zero issues. Thanks Lyndon
Skee Posted January 20, 2016 Posted January 20, 2016 Getting somewhere on the first wing. The second will take about 10 mins. I'm sure there are parts that arnt even mentioned in the manual. Then in the parts list are incorrect. But it all makes sense as I build it.Question. In the real world when I use a sealer on the fuel outlets after drilling the plastic tanks. Does any one have a preferred sealer when they look back with experience. I'm expecting to seal these tanks up for many years with zero issues. Thanks Lyndon Kyle had remade his tanks, what he used in his thread, you check.
Lyndon Posted January 20, 2016 Author Posted January 20, 2016 Will have a look. By memory someone is using orings Lyndon
Skee Posted January 20, 2016 Posted January 20, 2016 Will have a look. By memory someone is using oringsLyndon There many versions is, yes, check aircraft spruce and search for tank seal, answer you will find.
Kyle Communications Posted January 20, 2016 Posted January 20, 2016 Will have a look. By memory someone is using oringsLyndon I had 2 tanks leak it was a real pain in the as* to fix. I had drilled the holes in the tanks just a smidgen off to try to get the outlet as low as possible in the tank. I had lots of issues trying to seal them. I tried all sorts of stuff..stag,proseal, etc. I ended up taking out the fittings and making a small groove in them and putting a Oring seal between the tank and the fitting. Actually worked really well and no more issues. I did run the motor/engine silicone sealer over the outside of the fittings as well. The big issue with using any sealer on the tanks is most will not stick to the tanks. The plastic they make them out of is really oily and nothing sticks over time. The Oring made the seal permanent and no further issues 1
Lyndon Posted January 21, 2016 Author Posted January 21, 2016 Is this correct. Manual is not overly clear and pics on builds I can't really see. Lyndon 1
Lyndon Posted January 22, 2016 Author Posted January 22, 2016 I'm thinking ahead. About to zip up the right wing. I believe it has no add ons. Looking ahead the left wing has the pitot tube and light. To all you builders do I need the light. why would I ever need it. Lyndon
Skee Posted January 22, 2016 Posted January 22, 2016 I'm thinking ahead. About to zip up the right wing. I believe it has no add ons. Looking ahead the left wing has the pitot tube and light.To all you builders do I need the light. why would I ever need it. Lyndon Self preservation, see and be seen! Why would you ever need a seatbelt. 1
Lyndon Posted January 22, 2016 Author Posted January 22, 2016 I'm 55. Been flying since 26. I have never needed a light. What you are saying is use it like DRL s on a modern car. The Volvo theory. ??? Lyndon
Lyndon Posted January 25, 2016 Author Posted January 25, 2016 Manual is clear as mud. But I'm sure it's not overly important. I'm presuming seeing these skins are fitted secondly they go this way. ??? Lyndon
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