rankamateur Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 See in the corner of the four sheets. the front beige one looks like a square plonked on top. If put that one under the rear outer one it will look a lot better. Even if you don't change it over make sure and make the other wing the same.
Lyndon Posted January 25, 2016 Author Posted January 25, 2016 Thanks for that. I have noticed that my angulars for my lower skin outers. Two on each side. They are shaped for the wing tip. Manual wants the bend on these towards the spar. Well that is impossible as all four of mine are identical. On this right wing the angle faces away from the spar. Then on the left wing the angle will face the spar. Two have one number the other two another number. But all four are the same. It's just an anti rattle brave so I'm happy with that.
rankamateur Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 They are probably a part you are most likely to see again so you can order the right parts next time you do a wing tip.
rankamateur Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 That's after I damage it ??? As I will too. They are very repairable. I had a lot to do with Tom Abel before Reg took over the distribution, He asked why I was using an expensive propeller. As though there was nothing more certain than I knock the blades off it. The plane I trained in has had both wing tips rebuilt now. If you paint the repair well, you wouldn't know unless you read the logbook.
Lyndon Posted January 28, 2016 Author Posted January 28, 2016 This is the wrong way around. Eg the glass is on the outside. Can't see any reason why this would not work and it looks better. Thought s ??? Lyndon
Lyndon Posted January 29, 2016 Author Posted January 29, 2016 Is it just me or ???. Manual is very unclear.
Kyle Communications Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 It's just you:cheezy grin:but the manual is terrible...you need to read it and look at all the assembly drawings 10 times like the rest of us had to. It does fit 1
Lyndon Posted January 29, 2016 Author Posted January 29, 2016 Ok I will keep looking. But I clearly have wrong as this pre drilled hole lines up with a curved surface.
Skee Posted January 29, 2016 Posted January 29, 2016 Ok I will keep looking. But I clearly have wrong as this pre drilled hole lines up with a curved surface. So did mine, just drill and rivet.
Ultralights Posted January 30, 2016 Posted January 30, 2016 is it possible some holes are tooling holes? as in holes made to locate the part into a cutting, folding or forming jig? when the part was made?
Lyndon Posted February 1, 2016 Author Posted February 1, 2016 ok. Im fitting the tanks. Just confirming. Sight plastic pipe in the left tank inner. The left wing has two outlets, one for each tank, [ how long do need to have these fuel lines. ] I have the manifold kit from Reg. ???? The right tanks, two outlets one from each tank. How long for the fuel lines to manifold. then one fuel line which is a return line to the inner tank . Im asking allowable lengths of fuel line as dont want to be short and I have no experience in this and I dont have the fuse done to measure it. All four tanks plumbed to the manifold which sits behind the driver I think. From there a single line goes to the header tank. Correct ??? Thanks Lyndon
Lyndon Posted February 1, 2016 Author Posted February 1, 2016 Correction. I have two manifolds. Then two outlets to the header. In your experience one manifold on each side upper. Or both on the drivers side. I'm thinking what is best for ease of operation. Lyndon
Kyle Communications Posted February 1, 2016 Posted February 1, 2016 I have 4 taps on one manifold on the pax side so I can reach it. The single outlet goes to the sump the other outlet goes as the breather to the top of the inner tank on the pax side. The fuel return from the engine goes into the end of the manifold so it never overflows the tank. The pic with Cosmick in it you can see where the manifold is. When I repaired the nosegear I replaced all the fuel hose with the teflon inner fuel hose so no smell in the cabin
Kyle Communications Posted February 1, 2016 Posted February 1, 2016 I have 4 taps on one manifold on the pax side so I can reach it. The single outlet goes to the sump the other outlet goes as the breather to the top of the inner tank on the pax side. The fuel return from the engine goes into the end of the manifold so it never overflows the tank. The pic with Cosmick in it you can see where the manifold is. When I repaired the nosegear I replaced all the fuel hose with the teflon inner fuel hose so no smell in the cabin[ATTACH=full]41127[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]41128[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]41129[/ATTACH]
Lyndon Posted February 1, 2016 Author Posted February 1, 2016 That makes sense. It's easier to reach for the taps on the passenger side is what you are saying.I have two taps so I can mount both on the passenger side. Then two lines from them to the the header tank. My return is going back to the tank as per the manual. I'm sure it can't pump back more than the tanks can equate them selves.
Kyle Communications Posted February 1, 2016 Posted February 1, 2016 If you take off with the inner pax tank full and the other tanks on it WILL overflow your inner tank...been there and done that. The rotax spits back 3 to 4 litres per hour from the engine. If you take off on just the pax inner tank and run for a while then maybe all ok but I always take off with 2 tanks to be on the safe side
IBob Posted February 1, 2016 Posted February 1, 2016 This is good stuff: while I'm a long way off this stage, I've been scratching my head over how the tanks might best be plumbed.
Lyndon Posted February 1, 2016 Author Posted February 1, 2016 I don't have any control. Both my inner tanks are on on. So no matter how I fill them they will equal out. I guess I just don't fill them up. I can fill the long range tanks as I have a tap on each of them to open and close . Not an overly good design. I would have thought using 15 plus litres and hour and returning only 4 it would be ok ??
Kyle Communications Posted February 1, 2016 Posted February 1, 2016 If I remember this weekend I will take a pic of my setup with the fuel backfeed into the manifold. There has been many a Sav owner looking for a place to land in a hurry with the std tank setup due to a air lock in the top of the sump. The flashing light gets the sphincter pulsing. The way mine is there is no way this can happen as the top of the sump is always vented to open space inside the top of the pax tank so no air can be in the sump The system works a treat...unless a bug gets into the std breather pipe system on the cap this then stops fuel flowing from that tank and you have a full tank of fuel that will not flow. This happened to me so I fitted stainless tubes facing forward in the caps and it doesnt happen any more. You just fit some thin wire gauze into the hole to stop the bugs
Lyndon Posted February 1, 2016 Author Posted February 1, 2016 So in your case the breather on the header tank would be full of fuel ???. Wouldn't it be part of the fuel system and be at the same height as the fuel in the fuel tanks. ?? Lyndon
Kyle Communications Posted February 1, 2016 Posted February 1, 2016 yes it will be full just like a dumpy level but if you look at the pic I posted earlier of the special fittings I made for the sight tubes it goes into the rhs one. This area is always exposed to air as the tanks are way too full if fuel is above it. But in any case the fuel in the sump is always exposed to the atmosphere inside the pax inner tank
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