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Posted

My friction block is way to small in diameter. Has anyone else found this. I'm not wanting to rush in and enlarge it ??? Lyndon

 

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Posted

I see some wanky blue fuel line in some of the threads. I do like it in the engine bay. Where does one get this stuff.

 

Lyndon

 

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Posted
My friction block is way to small in diameter. Has anyone else found this. I'm not wanting to rush in and enlarge it ??? Lyndon

Enlarge it if necessary, I usually do that with the pedal mounting blocks. I usually leave out the friction block altogether, it adds too much friction and I like the throttle free and easy.

 

I see some wanky blue fuel line in some of the threads. I do like it in the engine bay. Where does one get this stuff.Lyndon

That blue fuel hose used to come with the older kits.

 

 

Posted

Your fuel hose needs to be fireproof or you need to get that very expensive fireproof sheathing and cover it over your fuel lines. Thats why you see all that brown/orange coloured fuel hose. Thats the sheathing

 

 

Posted

Your fuel hose needs to be fireproof or you need to get that very expensive fireproof sheathing and cover it over your fuel lines. Thats why you see all that brown/orange coloured fuel hose. Thats the sheathing

 

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Posted

Thanks. I got marine fuel line from Reg. It looks like this maybe fire resistant from what they say on the net ???

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted

My manual says to wire the nut on the front wheel axle. ??? Is that necessary as it has a nyloc on it ???

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted

Do you have the modified axle with the steel bolt right trough? The head of the original bolt is drilled for safety wire maybe but it goes in the spare parts bag and the steel through bolt replaces it with the nyloc nuts.

 

 

Posted

Yes I do. Makes sense. Engine is in. Feel like I'm making progress

 

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Posted

Engine mount questions. I bought this Engine used and it came with a bracket mounted to the engine and then that screwed to the box. Eg they just put my used engine in the box the replacement engine came in. I have no info 're torque values or what bolts to use or washers or loctite etc. It came with four black set screws that look like what is used from pics I see in my manual. Any info would be great.

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

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Posted

There should be four of M8 X 35 Allen head set screws and washers in the engine installation parts box.

 

Torque to 40Nm.

 

I think the manual says to use loctite but I drill and safety wire them because I've seen a few lost or loose ones on motors around about.

 

Cheers

 

Rick

 

 

Posted
If I remember this weekend I will take a pic of my setup with the fuel backfeed into the manifold. There has been many a Sav owner looking for a place to land in a hurry with the std tank setup due to a air lock in the top of the sump. The flashing light gets the sphincter pulsing. The way mine is there is no way this can happen as the top of the sump is always vented to open space inside the top of the pax tank so no air can be in the sumpThe system works a treat...unless a bug gets into the std breather pipe system on the cap this then stops fuel flowing from that tank and you have a full tank of fuel that will not flow. This happened to me so I fitted stainless tubes facing forward in the caps and it doesnt happen any more. You just fit some thin wire gauze into the hole to stop the bugs

 

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Hi Kyle what dia tube did you use for your breathers .cheers Geoff

 

 

Posted

the lower coolant hoses very close to the exhaust. Which is the way to go. Heat shield the hoses with sleeves or wrap the exhaust pipes. Any experience of what works best ???

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted

Hi Lyndon I have wrapped all my Exhaust to keep the heat out of the engine compartment and to shield the radiator hoses

 

 

Posted

Yes lot less heat in the engine compartment so electronics cooler radiator hose away from the heat all good

 

 

Posted

My Sav 912 exhaust wrapped with thick glass fiber mat and tied with stainless steel wireIMG_1225-1.jpg.f42ddc7251ab83df9a7e4b28e85d3fed.jpg

 

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