Kyle Communications Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 I love the safety boots in the first pic :) I got 4 tanks with my kit and had to make the other 2 holes in the skins for the extra 2 tanks. I can switch all 4 tanks individually this all goes into the 1 input in the reserve tank...the other hole in the reserve tank is used exclusively as the breather and it goes to the top of the inner tank. You can get a vapour lock in the original that will give you a low fuel alarm with the system I use it basicially can not happen. BUT a bug can get into the cap breather tube which is the parts you show in the picture and this can stop fuel draining into the reserve...had this happen recently so have now changed those to the pipes coming out of the top of the caps. Its on the blog I will post the page
Kyle Communications Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 http://www.recreationalflying.com/threads/another-new-savannah-xl-on-its-way.10493/page-44 post number 876
rankamateur Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 The spring is not part of the fuel outlet as far as I can remember. Take care to get the outlet in the tank on the side nearest the wing root. The wing is upside down while you are working it out and I know a bloke who ended up with the outlet in the high side of one of his tanks, ended up with a threaded plug in it and another outlet in the other side.
Lyndon Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 I have no hole I'm my tank. Just one to fill it. Also if you look at the pic I don't have a delivery fitting that is complete. I have two manifolds not one. Lyndon
rankamateur Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 I know our instructor has both fillers close together for easier refueling without moving the ladder, But I am still concerned about concentrating the disturbance of both fillers so close together. For what it is worth my kit was the first lot where the sheets were already cut for the dual tanks and the fillers are a full tank width apart.
rankamateur Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Are your manifolds like this? With the little red tap. If so they are optional additions to the kit made here in Australia. http://www.aerokits.net.au/prod04.htm. better picture here. 1 1
rick morawski Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Wonder what that part is then ?? the part with the spring is the tank outlet (new style). You have to drill a hole in the back of the tank on the correct side. Check your manual for installation.
Lyndon Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 Seems strange. What seals it. Can't seem to find it in my manual. Will have another look. Lyndon
rick morawski Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Seems strange. What seals it. Can't seem to find it in my manual. Will have another look.Lyndon use a good fuel resistant sealant, its a real pain in the a** if you get the wing painted and finished and it leaks.
Lyndon Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 So I drill an 11 mm hole. Fit this with no o ring and she is ready to go ???. What's with the spring hanging out one end ???. The manual says about some return lines ???. I just looked at the original tanks. From what I can see they just thread in to the tank. No but ??? Let alone a hole they go into to. Lyndon
Lyndon Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 This will help me sort it out. Do the standard tanks have return lines. Do the long range tanks have return lines. The manifold set I have allows for set of tanks to be turned off. This would have die consequences if the set turned off was full with a return line installed. I would think the outside tanks would be used first in a perfect world. Then shut off and the inner tanks turned on. But the manifold set won't allow either or or both. One set can't be turned off. Then the other set is turned on in tandem with the other set. Lyndon
Lyndon Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 Sorry the manifold One set is always open. One set I can closed. I would think if a return line is used run it to set open always it will work fune. 1
rankamateur Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 The return goes into the inner tank only, so leave the outer tank turned off until some fuel has been burned off, otherwise you will be dumping fuel overboard out of the fuel breather tube through the wing. At least you will be able to see the trail if you use the breather tubes. If you use one of the modified breather styles, the dumped fuel will be blowing in the wind above the wing and you will see nothing.
Lyndon Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 Makes sense with the manifold. Breathers come out of the lower skin I see. Found some brass outlets with a copper washer for the tanks. The breathing outlets have nothing. Seems less than ideal. But it must work Still have no idea what that spring is for the outlet of the long range tanks Lyndon
rick morawski Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 O Makes sense with the manifold. Breathers come out of the lower skin I see. Found some brass outlets with a copper washer for the tanks. The breathing outlets have nothing. Seems less than ideal. Still have no idea what that spring is for the outlet of the long range tanks Lyndon the spring is just to keep rubbish from completely blocking the outlet.
Kyle Communications Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Makes sense with the manifold. Breathers come out of the lower skin I see. Found some brass outlets with a copper washer for the tanks. The breathing outlets have nothing. Seems less than ideal. But it must workStill have no idea what that spring is for the outlet of the long range tanks Lyndon Look at the thread I posted before...and read the post...it tells you about the breathers...and most builders have got rid of the ICP way and fitted the tubes to the top of the filler cap. Experience is a wonderful teacher. Sealing the tank fittings is a real crap...I got the fittings and put them in a lathe and made a small Oring groove..this is after leaking tanks twice...I retrofitted the Orings later....I also sealed the fittings with silicone the ones used for gaskets you make for engines that can handle oil no more leaks no matter how hard you tighten the connectors. 1
Kyle Communications Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 I also now have the engine fuel return line going into my 4 way manifold at the end this pipe from the engine also has a tap on it to be able to turn that flow off
Lyndon Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 Ok all sorted. Drill the holes and get them sealed. The two inside tanks are balanced. Then when I use the manifold and turn that on all 4 tanks are balanced and drain evenly. Thus one level sigbt. On that what am looking for as far fittings for it. I have two large brass ( outlets for the two standard tanks and three small brass fittings. My thinking is two for the sight level and only one return to one tank seeing they are balanced. ?? I have the on off Tao and fittings. Two breathers. Two outlets and then three small fittings. Return and sight level ??? Lyndon
Lyndon Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 All sorted. Lots of advice. A new day and I have it worked out. Thanks again. Lots more questions to come. Lyndon 1
rankamateur Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 That tap is the main fuel shutoff that is installed between your knees on the floor. It cuts all fuel forward of the firewall if you have an engine fire. The taps that turn the outer tanks off are not standard, such as these. http://www.aerokits.net.au/prod04.htm or the photo Mark posted.
Kyle Communications Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 I replaced my tap with a better one but Lyndon ....Steve is correct that tap in the photo goes in the hole in the floor sheet just under the botton of your left thigh...just to the left and to the front of the flap lever floor bracket
Kyle Communications Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 You can see my tap it is red...but it is not the original...that tap of yours goes there too
rankamateur Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 I think the barbs on the standard tap are a bit young too, looks like it asks a fair bit of the hose clamps to keep it sealed. Would be much better if the supplied barbs were the same size as the supplied hose for that one.
rotax618 Posted October 11, 2015 Posted October 11, 2015 Be careful where you drill the holes to mount the sight gauge fittings, if the holes are drilled too close to the top and bottom of the tanks when you tighten up the fittings the plastic tanks will crack, the fittings must be seated on the flat surface of the tank NOT too close to the curved edge. I was given a tank that had split at the return fitting, I was going to get the tank welded up but the plastic couldnt be successfully welded.
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