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Posted

I would go with Mike suggestion sleeve it re drill it is it the flap actuator tube.

 

 

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Posted

Just make sure you don't do the same thing

 

Doesn't make for a nice fit. Mmm.Lyndon

That tube will need a slight bend so it doesn't foul on the landing gear channel too. It is not a terribly special piece of material, it may be simpler to get another piece of tube and remake it using the old one for a pattern. I haven't yet worked out why that hole he buggered up wasn't already drilled anyway, I am sure it was on mine.

The hole that usually gives the most grief is the one through the rear end of the torque tube. If you get it wrong your joystick will not be centred when the control surfaces are in the neutral position.

 

 

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Posted

It was factory drilled. I didn't do it. Saying that I probably would not have done a much better job. I do know I can't fix it as it will only be worse. Your idea of the sleeve is a good one but. It's a very sloppy joint when the bolt is in anyway so I'm going to fit it up and see how it is. It's only the flap rod. Hopefully will have it fitted in the next few days after some painting and see how she goes. I wonder what the chances are of getting a sleeve that will be the correct size ???

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted

You make mention of not getting the hole in the rear correct affects the stick position. The arm has stops and riv nuts ( I can't find what goes in them yet ) which I guess had a bolt and lock nut. You then set the alerons at a said value ( I did find that in the book ) with the bolts on the stopping plates. I would suggest there must be enough adjustment to center the stick and still get your set values. Like setting the toe in on your car and still having you steering wheel centred.

 

I am jumping ahead here as not at this stage

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted
I would suggest there must be enough adjustment to center the stick and still get your set values.

As long as you are careful to set the arm centred in the torque tube before you drill the hole. You can only drill from above and you have to get the drill to come straight out the lower hole in the boss on the arm. Take care.

 

 

Posted

Does anyone fit this. Apart from a cigarette lighter slash charger what else goes in it and is it relevant in 2016.

 

Lyndon

 

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Posted
Does anyone fit this. Apart from a cigarette lighter slash charger what else goes in it and is it relevant in 2016.Lyndon

I fitted it much to Reg's disgust. I plan to mount my USB ports and 12 volt outlet in it along with a phone mount to hold my phone on the charger.

 

 

Posted

What are you guys using for the carby fuel line outlets by 2. Just an ordinary brass barb with some sealer ???. My Rotax manual lists nothing really. I did read that the fuel lines to the pump is 5/16 and from there it's 1/4 to the carbs. Thoughts ??

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted
Does anyone fit this. Apart from a cigarette lighter slash charger what else goes in it and is it relevant in 2016.Lyndon

My understanding is that it's a floor mounted console for the radio/intercom and headphone jacks. I'm not using it in mine either, I like the open floor space.

 

 

Posted
What are you guys using for the carby fuel line outlets by 2. Just an ordinary brass barb with some sealer ???. My Rotax manual lists nothing really. I did read that the fuel lines to the pump is 5/16 and from there it's 1/4 to the carbs. Thoughts ??Lyndon

Yes, brass fittings in the fuel pump with suitable sealer. You need 3/8" hose from aluminium tube supply to inlet of elect fuel pump, 5/16" from outlet of elec fuel pump to inlet of of mech fuel pump, 1/4" from outlet of mech fuel pump to inlet of fuel spider and 1/4" out of all the fuel spider outlets. Note the fuel spider has two outlets with restrictors- they are for the fuel pressure gauge and fuel return line. Have a look, you should have the fittings in the kit.

Cheers

 

Rick

 

 

Posted

Thanks for that. I have all the fittings except for my carbs and fuel pump as I got a used 100 hp.

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted

Pedal positions. The pedals are positioned as per the adjustment on the steering arms. Any thoughts on where they should be for you who have been there done that. They seem to be pretty much at 90 degrees to the floor with the arms pretty much bottomed out. I'm fairly tall so I can make them further away a bit.

 

Lyndon

 

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Posted

I have fitted the pedals and I'm very happy with the outcome. Keeping in mind I don't have a rudder yet ???. I can push the pedals in a either direction far to far. I would have thought a stop would be on the front wheel. I'm hoping there is a stop on the rudder and cables will be my stop left to right ???

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted

My rudder cables to my pedals have a Bush sc134 ??? Does any one have dimensions of this Bush. The photo in manual could not be more out of focus. It also has no mention of bolt size. Any help would be great.

 

Lyndon

 

Ps I know its wrong the way I have it

 

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Posted

Some progress with the controls. My elevator rod was rubbing on my main reinforcement for the main wheels in the tunnel. After lots of deliberation I flattened it slightly. Very happy with the outcome. Fitting my carpet now. Nice to do something that is very straight forward and you can't get wrong

 

Lyndon

 

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Posted
I'm sure it would. Specs are specs. That filter fits a Rotax a Briggs and Stratton and a Kawasaki and about one hundred more engines. I'm not using a Briggs and Stratton filter. But a balwin filter that fits a Briggs and Stratton. It's not from repco but from one of the biggest filter suppliers in Australia .

Hi Lyndon, Do you know the model or id for the Balwin filter that fite a rotax 100uls please? Phil.

 

 

Posted
Some progress with the controls. My elevator rod was rubbing on my main reinforcement for the main wheels in the tunnel. After lots of deliberation I flattened it slightly. Very happy with the outcome. Fitting my carpet now. Nice to do something that is very straight forward and you can't get wrongLyndon

Looks like your about ready to do some flight circuits in the workshop? [:-)

 

 

Posted

I bought a large spray can of sika adhesive. Quite surprised how little I got done with the can. At almost 20.bucks a can I got the sika in a one litre and now brush it on. It's actually better. Less mess cheap and and I dont have to mask up.

 

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