skyfox1 Posted September 9, 2016 Posted September 9, 2016 I would go with Mike suggestion sleeve it re drill it is it the flap actuator tube.
rankamateur Posted September 9, 2016 Posted September 9, 2016 Just make sure you don't do the same thing Doesn't make for a nice fit. Mmm.Lyndon That tube will need a slight bend so it doesn't foul on the landing gear channel too. It is not a terribly special piece of material, it may be simpler to get another piece of tube and remake it using the old one for a pattern. I haven't yet worked out why that hole he buggered up wasn't already drilled anyway, I am sure it was on mine. The hole that usually gives the most grief is the one through the rear end of the torque tube. If you get it wrong your joystick will not be centred when the control surfaces are in the neutral position. 1
Lyndon Posted September 9, 2016 Author Posted September 9, 2016 It was factory drilled. I didn't do it. Saying that I probably would not have done a much better job. I do know I can't fix it as it will only be worse. Your idea of the sleeve is a good one but. It's a very sloppy joint when the bolt is in anyway so I'm going to fit it up and see how it is. It's only the flap rod. Hopefully will have it fitted in the next few days after some painting and see how she goes. I wonder what the chances are of getting a sleeve that will be the correct size ??? Lyndon
Lyndon Posted September 9, 2016 Author Posted September 9, 2016 You make mention of not getting the hole in the rear correct affects the stick position. The arm has stops and riv nuts ( I can't find what goes in them yet ) which I guess had a bolt and lock nut. You then set the alerons at a said value ( I did find that in the book ) with the bolts on the stopping plates. I would suggest there must be enough adjustment to center the stick and still get your set values. Like setting the toe in on your car and still having you steering wheel centred. I am jumping ahead here as not at this stage Lyndon
rankamateur Posted September 9, 2016 Posted September 9, 2016 I would suggest there must be enough adjustment to center the stick and still get your set values. As long as you are careful to set the arm centred in the torque tube before you drill the hole. You can only drill from above and you have to get the drill to come straight out the lower hole in the boss on the arm. Take care.
Lyndon Posted September 11, 2016 Author Posted September 11, 2016 Does anyone fit this. Apart from a cigarette lighter slash charger what else goes in it and is it relevant in 2016. Lyndon
rick morawski Posted September 11, 2016 Posted September 11, 2016 I've always turfed them in the bin.
rankamateur Posted September 11, 2016 Posted September 11, 2016 Does anyone fit this. Apart from a cigarette lighter slash charger what else goes in it and is it relevant in 2016.Lyndon I fitted it much to Reg's disgust. I plan to mount my USB ports and 12 volt outlet in it along with a phone mount to hold my phone on the charger.
Lyndon Posted September 11, 2016 Author Posted September 11, 2016 Think it's not going in. Well at least for now. Lyndon
fallowdeer Posted September 11, 2016 Posted September 11, 2016 I've found mine handy, put a Ram mounting ball on to hold my IPad. Peter
Lyndon Posted September 11, 2016 Author Posted September 11, 2016 What are you guys using for the carby fuel line outlets by 2. Just an ordinary brass barb with some sealer ???. My Rotax manual lists nothing really. I did read that the fuel lines to the pump is 5/16 and from there it's 1/4 to the carbs. Thoughts ?? Lyndon
mcrowley Posted September 12, 2016 Posted September 12, 2016 Does anyone fit this. Apart from a cigarette lighter slash charger what else goes in it and is it relevant in 2016.Lyndon My understanding is that it's a floor mounted console for the radio/intercom and headphone jacks. I'm not using it in mine either, I like the open floor space.
rick morawski Posted September 12, 2016 Posted September 12, 2016 What are you guys using for the carby fuel line outlets by 2. Just an ordinary brass barb with some sealer ???. My Rotax manual lists nothing really. I did read that the fuel lines to the pump is 5/16 and from there it's 1/4 to the carbs. Thoughts ??Lyndon Yes, brass fittings in the fuel pump with suitable sealer. You need 3/8" hose from aluminium tube supply to inlet of elect fuel pump, 5/16" from outlet of elec fuel pump to inlet of of mech fuel pump, 1/4" from outlet of mech fuel pump to inlet of fuel spider and 1/4" out of all the fuel spider outlets. Note the fuel spider has two outlets with restrictors- they are for the fuel pressure gauge and fuel return line. Have a look, you should have the fittings in the kit. Cheers Rick
Lyndon Posted September 12, 2016 Author Posted September 12, 2016 Thanks for that. I have all the fittings except for my carbs and fuel pump as I got a used 100 hp. Lyndon
Lyndon Posted September 12, 2016 Author Posted September 12, 2016 Pedal positions. The pedals are positioned as per the adjustment on the steering arms. Any thoughts on where they should be for you who have been there done that. They seem to be pretty much at 90 degrees to the floor with the arms pretty much bottomed out. I'm fairly tall so I can make them further away a bit. Lyndon
Lyndon Posted September 13, 2016 Author Posted September 13, 2016 I have fitted the pedals and I'm very happy with the outcome. Keeping in mind I don't have a rudder yet ???. I can push the pedals in a either direction far to far. I would have thought a stop would be on the front wheel. I'm hoping there is a stop on the rudder and cables will be my stop left to right ??? Lyndon
Lyndon Posted September 13, 2016 Author Posted September 13, 2016 My rudder cables to my pedals have a Bush sc134 ??? Does any one have dimensions of this Bush. The photo in manual could not be more out of focus. It also has no mention of bolt size. Any help would be great. Lyndon Ps I know its wrong the way I have it
Lyndon Posted September 14, 2016 Author Posted September 14, 2016 Some progress with the controls. My elevator rod was rubbing on my main reinforcement for the main wheels in the tunnel. After lots of deliberation I flattened it slightly. Very happy with the outcome. Fitting my carpet now. Nice to do something that is very straight forward and you can't get wrong Lyndon
1Phils Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 I'm sure it would. Specs are specs. That filter fits a Rotax a Briggs and Stratton and a Kawasaki and about one hundred more engines. I'm not using a Briggs and Stratton filter. But a balwin filter that fits a Briggs and Stratton. It's not from repco but from one of the biggest filter suppliers in Australia . Hi Lyndon, Do you know the model or id for the Balwin filter that fite a rotax 100uls please? Phil.
Blueadventures Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 Some progress with the controls. My elevator rod was rubbing on my main reinforcement for the main wheels in the tunnel. After lots of deliberation I flattened it slightly. Very happy with the outcome. Fitting my carpet now. Nice to do something that is very straight forward and you can't get wrongLyndon Looks like your about ready to do some flight circuits in the workshop? [:-)
Lyndon Posted September 16, 2016 Author Posted September 16, 2016 Sydney filters. They will post em to you. B7165
Lyndon Posted September 16, 2016 Author Posted September 16, 2016 I bought a large spray can of sika adhesive. Quite surprised how little I got done with the can. At almost 20.bucks a can I got the sika in a one litre and now brush it on. It's actually better. Less mess cheap and and I dont have to mask up.
mcrowley Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 Lyndon, did you apply the carpet before installing the rudder petals or after?
Lyndon Posted September 16, 2016 Author Posted September 16, 2016 Carpet then pedals ??? I figure once it is synched down it will be fine ??
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