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Posted

Well that will be another day. Moving that compaired to working under the plane in the hole will be a breeze. I have noticed that with full flap my alerons are not as smooth as compared with zero flap. I've had a look and fiddled with it all. Seems like the hymen joints are at there max and complaining somewhat.

 

Lyndon

 

 

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Posted
Well that will be another day. Moving that compaired to working under the plane in the hole will be a breeze. I have noticed that with full flap my alerons are not as smooth as compared with zero flap. I've had a look and fiddled with it all. Seems like the hymen joints are at there max and complaining somewhat.Lyndon

Ha ha. Seriously though, check that you have used the correct washers on the "Heim" joint. They are very small spacers really, usually a pack of them in the kit. Follow the instructions, two on one side, one on the other. Then the ball joint will not rub on the levers.

 

 

Posted

Its what I call em. Been a standing joke for as long as I can remember. But on serious note I know what is not right. Yep it's something I have done wrong.

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

 

Posted

I knew as soon as you mentioned those little washers / spacers. I had seen them and wondered what they are for. Went back to the manual and yep it says fit the an - 5 washers. Which I did and which don't work. Even looked in parts manual and it doesn't list those nice little washers. Guess its something they added along the way. Glad I mentioned it and even more glad I got an answer. Its a pretty important part of the plane.

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted

I take it this is what I'm after for spacers/washer for my hiem joints

 

Lyndon

 

If so I'm one short. Also I see where they attach to the flaps the book says you can swap the special washers for standard an960-5

 

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Posted

I would like to praise Reg. If anyone thinking of building a plane take into consideration the after sales back up. I can only say that his knowledge and promtness and range of parts etc on the shelf is exemplary. It's a great thing having that kind of back up in Australia

 

Lyndon

 

 

  • Agree 1
Posted
It's a great thing having that kind of back up in Australia

It is even better having it twenty minutes drive up the road!

 

 

Posted

I'm wiring up the engine. Seems a bit of a guessing game with my manual. Anyone have a link to some thing with more detail.

 

Lyndon

 

 

  • More 1
Posted

For example. I have the wrong connectors for my head temp sensors. Kit is for a Rotax 912. What is the go. Modify what connecters I have have or replace ??

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted
Thanks for the input. But I can't open that fileLyndon

Its a pdf so should be easy to open. I found it some time ago on the south african savannah agents site. If you prvate messaf=ge your email I'll send it there.

Cheers Mike

 

 

Posted

Regulator and starter relay.

 

Any experience with what to buy and more importantly what not to buy . I'm in need of these two items.

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted
Regulator and starter relay.Any experience with what to buy and more importantly what not to buy . I'm in need of these two items.

Lyndon

There is a 912 regulator in the classifieds

 

 

Posted

My engine has a honey well oil pressure sender. It has two wires. I'm presuming an earth or a power supply is the extra one. ( my kit only has one wire in the loom ). Secondly will my gauge be suitable for this sender. I see a lot of issues with leaking senders etc. So keep this or just buy the correct sender new.

 

Thoughts Lyndon

 

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Posted
My engine has a honey well oil pressure sender. It has two wires. I'm presuming an earth or a power supply is the extra one. ( my kit only has one wire in the loom ). Secondly will my gauge be suitable for this sender. I see a lot of issues with leaking senders etc. So keep this or just buy the correct sender new.Thoughts Lyndon

The sender is the later 0-20mA type and needs to be used with a compatible gauge(you need a plug and terminals). Your kit probably has the older gauge used with the VDO resistive type sender, but you haven't shown us what type you have.

If there is an incompatibility issue you have to either change gauge or sender. Probably easiest to get a resistive sender because you don't need to muck around with the wiring. Downside is those resistive senders can break down often.

 

Rick

 

 

Posted

It seems you can't buy the Honeywell any more. ( So if it fails ). It apparently has the 1/8 th ntp thread. From what I can see buy the the cheap vdo sender that suits my engine and loom. Then remote fit on the firewall. These kits are available in the USA. I would prefer to buy in Australia. Does anyone know availability in Australia.

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted

Ok I have sorted it. I have bought a standard vdo sender. I have some fittings sorted and will mount it on the fire wall. That seems to be the go.

 

Lyndon

 

 

Posted

I'm wiring up the mags. From what I can see in the Rotax manual they are brown wires. All I can find is two cut wires in white. One would hope they didn't cut them this close surely.

 

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Posted

I'm also interested in why there is a jumper wire joining the coils then it used to go somewhere and that is cut.

 

Lyndon

 

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Posted

Ok I'm sure these two short wires are my mags. The single cut wire goes to my starter for the soft start. The wires are so faded it was hard to tell the colour.

 

Lyndon

 

 

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