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Lyndons Savannah VG Thread


Lyndon

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Ribs ???

 

A question. Manual is a little vague.

 

On the cables. One nylon block on the rear of each rib. 4 5 and 6. The a block on both sides of the longeron ???

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

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1445649608564376079033.jpg.91b01597c1ab2aa213237282fcbe6a7a.jpg

 

 

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Ribs ???A question. Manual is a little vague.

On the cables. One nylon block on the rear of each rib. 4 5 and 6. The a block on both sides of the longeron ???

 

Thanks Lyndon

No, leave the most forward nylon block to go on the seat front when you do the cabin/forward fuselage.

 

 

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Then I seem to have one block left over. I have five of them. ??

Have a look in the section called "controls"

Should be a picture like the one below.

 

I put the numbers in, see 5 nylon blocks

 

edit : there is a trapezoidal shaped one that goes thu the skin right at the back

 

12594663_controlcable.jpg.4de1da9f4f4ce79b817b87c5f4845106.jpg

 

 

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Ribs ???A question. Manual is a little vague.

On the cables. One nylon block on the rear of each rib. 4 5 and 6. The a block on both sides of the longeron ???

 

Thanks Lyndon

 

Have a look in the section called "controls"Should be a picture like the one below.

I put the numbers in, see 5 nylon blocks

 

edit : there is a trapezoidal shaped one that goes thu the skin right at the back

 

[ATTACH=full]38946[/ATTACH]

These need longer rivets than supplied in the kit too, to do the job properly. The standard supplied rivets barely come through the plastic to engage the aluminium. Once sheeted they are very difficult(read next to impossible) to drill out to replace with longer rivets.

 

So that "these"

 

 

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Make sure when you get to riveting, Start in the middle of each piece and rivet towards the outside. Think "smoothing out the wrinkles". If you go the other way you will carry tension into the middle and there will be nowhere for it to go.

 

 

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Outer. Angles ??? Meaning the four corner longerons ???

Yes. Note they have shorter inner lonerons as well near the front end of the rear fuselage section where the seat backs start. At this point, from memory you end up trying to line up about four layers. Don't drill holes to make them fit, just keep wriggling the holes with a 1/8" mandrel in the hole either side of the cleco until they are happy.

 

 

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You seem to be powering along Lyndon and it is quite addictive seeing things take shape and forgetting about the going on's in the world and those around you:smile: . As Rankamateur said if you haven't yet then get your hands on plenty of Cleco's.

 

I had my whole fuselage cleco together before I started with the riveting in case of any unforeseen problems.

 

 

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Happy with it. Time to relax now. One question. Seems to make sense to leave one side off and rivet up three sides. For acces etc. But I'm guessing the answer is get all four clecoed then rivet.

 

14457487040611181525454.jpg.89d99eefc347f0a59ed8f09c5a88123d.jpg

 

1445748731843376079033.jpg.d5188e281ee9d680beb00978c0ba3270.jpg

 

 

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One question. Button up the fuse. Nothing I need to do. Eg cables wiring. ??? All can be done easily afterwards. ???Lyndon

Yes you could put in electric trim cable and battery cable and battery box (if you are having battery at the back hatch), and baggage compartment back and bottom, unless you want to torture yourself trying to crawl in there and rivet it afterwards.

 

 

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Lyndon,

 

Re your rudder cables and wearing blocks.

 

Note that the rudder cables are left and right specific: they are NOT interchangeable. The difference is in the rear block on the cables where they exit the fuselage. The holes on these will not match if they are interchanged. Take care!

 

Regards,

 

Bob

 

 

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This is doing my head in. Minor problem the ribs a and b don't quite line up with the bottom skin.

 

The big thing is I can't make sense of the angulars the bottoms make no sense. Holes are completely mis matched. I'm sure it's me but can't seem to work it out

 

Lyndon

 

 

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