Kyle Communications Posted October 26, 2015 Posted October 26, 2015 There is another plate in the bottom...I gather you just realized that
Lyndon Posted October 26, 2015 Author Posted October 26, 2015 No I haven't found any plate yet. I'm just sorting the wiring so it misses the cables etc. The manual shows all sorts of extra prices on the fuse which arnt in the parts list. So I will chase up the wiring the extra parts and prime them before I rivet up the fuse. If any one has a pic of their loom it would be a great help. Lyndon
Lyndon Posted October 26, 2015 Author Posted October 26, 2015 Now jumping a step. If I close up the fuse. Including the cargo area wiring for the trim and I have the rudder cables. I will be able to fit the elevator cables ok afterward s Lyndon
Kyle Communications Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 You access the cables through the hole in the bottom. The elevator cables have a metal sliding strip for adjustment. You can leave the elevator cables hanging out the back as ou can get to them from the inside ok
Lyndon Posted October 27, 2015 Author Posted October 27, 2015 So what your saying is I can go ahead and rivet up the fuselage skins and leave the elevator cables for a later date when I fit the tail. ?? Thanks Lyndon
Kyle Communications Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Well the cables should be attached to the elevator as one goes through the front of the stab. You just drag them through when you fit the stab..and you join them to the stick belcrank through the bottom opening
Lyndon Posted October 27, 2015 Author Posted October 27, 2015 Great I shall get riveting. Any tips on the trim wiring through the fuse ?? Lyndon
Kyle Communications Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 I used plastic conduit bushings in the side frame holes...made life very easy. I think thy were 25mm
Lyndon Posted October 28, 2015 Author Posted October 28, 2015 Bloody manual. Parts list for the rear fuselage. All primed and ready to go. Then during assembly all these other parts are required. If I went by the manual you button up the skins then you can't fit these angulars. Luckily I haven't riveted it all up. But I now need to set up and prime again. No economy of scale. Lyndon
Marty_d Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 Bloody manual. Parts list for the rear fuselage. All primed and ready to go. Then during assembly all these other parts are required. If I went by the manual you button up the skins then you can't fit these angulars. Luckily I haven't riveted it all up. But I now need to set up and prime again. No economy of scale.Lyndon They're probably used to builders who go a hell of a lot slower than you...
Lyndon Posted October 28, 2015 Author Posted October 28, 2015 Thoughts on a 100 hp Rotax out of hours at a flying school. Soft start 2009 all serviced by a lame. Or is second hand to be avoided. Lyndon
eightyknots Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 Thoughts on a 100 hp Rotax out of hours at a flying school. Soft start 2009 all serviced by a lame. Or is second hand to be avoided.Lyndon It has probably done 1,500 hours so you will have 500 hours left for you 1
Lyndon Posted October 28, 2015 Author Posted October 28, 2015 Front lower hatch fixing support question. What am I missing. How does this work. Is it bent over to catch the lip. A rod installed to make a hinge. Nothing in my manual except rivet it the hatch ??? Lyndon
bobcharl Posted October 29, 2015 Posted October 29, 2015 No bending, no rod, just rivet it on as per the diagram on the page in your photo. The cover will then go on the outside of the fuselage with the riveted strip inside the fuse. Cleco it first and try it and you will work it out. Regards, Bob
Lyndon Posted October 29, 2015 Author Posted October 29, 2015 Ta. The fuse is a bit of work. Alignment of rivets seems to be a job and a half. In a day or two hopefully it will be done. Lyndon
rankamateur Posted October 29, 2015 Posted October 29, 2015 What am I missing. .... Nothing in my manual except rivet it the hatch ???Lyndon You seem to be having more than average trouble understanding the manual. The manual has copped a lot of criticism but it is better than that. I will give you two bits of advice. Read the manual for the next section you expect to be building the night before you start, you will digest it before you need it that way. The other thing is that they tend to have the explanation on one page BUT the picture or diagram on the facing page usually is the diagram for the page before. So when you are looking for clarification from a diagram, turn the page and you will likely find what you need. 1
Lyndon Posted October 29, 2015 Author Posted October 29, 2015 Will do. The fuse is just miss behaving as all the rivets don't line up. Especially the A and B rib. I want it cleacoed before rivets. Lyndon
Kyle Communications Posted October 29, 2015 Posted October 29, 2015 Are you using a podger to work them into the right spots?...you need a 1/8 and a 5/32 one. this makes it a lot easier
Lyndon Posted October 29, 2015 Author Posted October 29, 2015 No never heard of it. But I'm pretty sure of what it will look like. Will get onto it . Thanks Lyndon
rankamateur Posted October 29, 2015 Posted October 29, 2015 Are you using a podger to work them into the right spots?...you need a 1/8 and a 5/32 one. this makes it a lot easier Two of each is three times better , working either side of the offending cleco until they are click out to full extension.
rankamateur Posted October 29, 2015 Posted October 29, 2015 No never heard of it. But I'm pretty sure of what it will look like. Will get onto it .Thanks Lyndon See post #116
Lyndon Posted October 29, 2015 Author Posted October 29, 2015 I will see if I can get them locally. Lyndon
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