Bunnings aero

[M61A1]

If you've ever bought proper AN hardware, you'll find it cheaper than Bunnings 'equivalents' - which aren't equivalent. Not as convenient, you need to plan your acquisitions and sometimes wait for some days to receive them from Aviall, or Skyshop, or whoever. I buy a lot of AN stuff from QED (Dent Aviation, in Camden), who are a small organisation for whom the stock-in-hand cost vs. their turnover would be hugely larger than for a mass-consumer store, and I get the EXACT bolt etc. that I need at a cost that very frequently astonishes me as being too cheap!. Now, try to purchase from Bunnings ( or any mass-consumer store) a spec.-quality bolt that you can trust for a specific purpose that has a drilled head for lock-wire security and a drilled shank to use a castellated nut for use in a hot area - say, for your engine mounts... that has the exact grip length you need to maintain the mechanical integrity of the jointed components with the correct thread length for the nut you have to use. That fits properly into the holes. That has a finish coating of known composition.

You might have noticed that I was talking about "industrial " fasteners, not aerospace fasteners. Yes I agree, AN bolts are relatively inexpensive for what you get. If your aircraft was designed for a particular fastener, then you should use it, or a higher spec. There are locknuts with special coatings for use in hot areas (not (nylocs).

 

 

[Jaba-who]

Getting back a little closer to the original thread, I had a read through the 2015 reports, and noticed a lot of inconsistencies, mainly in the 'Outcome' section, which didn't always seem to have anything to do with the incident?Did read that same report for the thread incident repeated on two different days?

And still think there is more to the presumed fault than we are hearing....

 

As an aside, I often buy Bunnings and SuperCheap tools for their price, and oddly enough they either work for a good period of time (thereby thinking I've got my moneys worth), or they fail within twelve months whereupon I get them replaced for free..

 

Ozito routers and 240v fluro lead-lights come to mind.

I agree entirely. I built my jab using pretty much bunnings & supa cheap auto tools. Only bought expensive tools where the situation dictated I needed them. Point being Id rather have a workshop of cheaper tools than not have a workshop cos i only would accept expensive tools and couldn't afford them.

 

But in getting back toward the topic, I think buying non-aviation components for the aircraft is an entirely different matter.

 

 

[Oscar]

You might have noticed that I was talking about "industrial " fasteners, not aerospace fasteners. Yes I agree, AN bolts are relatively inexpensive for what you get. If your aircraft was designed for a particular fastener, then you should use it, or a higher spec. There are locknuts with special coatings for use in hot areas (not (nylocs).

Yes, I did note that - and what I have found, is that I can buy from even small suppliers of 'engineering' quality stuff, proper grade bolts and nuts at cheaper prices than I get from Bunnings. And, around where I live, there are very few alternates to Bunnings, but I always head to them first for ANY industrial-grade fasteners. For 'Trade' quality, most of the Bunnings stuff suffices.

 

 

[Oscar]

I agree entirely. I built my jab using pretty much bunnings & supa cheap auto tools. Only bought expensive tools where the situation dictated I needed them. Point being Id rather have a workshop of cheaper tools than not have a workshop cos i only would accept expensive tools and couldn't afford them.But in getting back toward the topic, I think buying non-aviation components for the aircraft is an entirely different matter.

ANY tool that does a satisfactory job, is 'good enough' - and unless you have an expectation of using it for many other jobs, if it amortises its cost, then you have a satisfactory tool. Many of the power tools I own are well more than 15-20 years old and look as if they've been thrown into a rock crusher at some stage - through use. Some of them are from companies no longer in existence.

 

Horses for courses here. If I'm ripping hardwood sleepers, I use an old B&D 'Industrial' 9.5" saw - fine for the job. If repairing the split top of an early C20 Australian Cedar bureau to insert a repair strip, I use the Robland, the Elu or the Festo ( for various tasks of that job). The difference is: the B&D wanders due to bearing slop by up to 1/8 inch or more; the Robland, Elu or Festo saws will all cut to within about 0.2mm. BUT - you have to know how to treat them; they do NOT tolerate abuse well.

 

We've all met the guy who built the Sydney Harbour Bridge (including Milson's Point Station) using nothing but his Ozito 100mm angle grinder and a pair of knock-off, unbranded Vice-Grips. More power to him, I say. But if you're doing a job that requires precision - and some jobs do require that - then if your tool can't deliver the required precision you are chasing your tail.