IBob Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Pre-amble (Walk Slowly First?): DIYer, no formal workshop background, greatly enjoying getting into my first build. There is a goldmine of info on this site, plus a lot of knowledeable and helpful people to ask questions. What I thought I could leave is a brief record of the bits I stumbled on. My kit was manufactured December 2014. Comments and suggestions welcomed. Always. The Rudder: 1. On all hinges, the center rivet must be countersink. 2. The skin on the underside, ST515, is manufactured curved, but has to be formed to a half cone shape, with a very tight curve towards the trailing edge. I did this placing the part on the bench, and progressively squeezingit using a clamp and two pieces of wood. I didn't do it in one 'squeeze', but by degrees, working up and down that end of the part. I found this quick and easy. 3. The last rivets in the ribs, towards the trailing edge, back onto each other. The manufacturer has offset the holes to avoid this, but in my build they still collided. After some discussion here, I shortened some A4 rivets by approx. 3mm. When used on both sides, this allowed them to be properly set back to back. (Some notes on shortening rivets in 'Tools'.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blueadventures Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Pre-amble (Walk Slowly First?):DIYer, no formal workshop background, greatly enjoying getting into my first build. There is a goldmine of info on this site, plus a lot of knowledeable and helpful people to ask questions. What I thought I could leave is a brief record of the bits I stumbled on. My kit was manufactured December 2014. Comments and suggestions welcomed. Always. The Rudder: 1. On all hinges, the center rivet must be countersink. 2. The skin on the underside, ST515, is manufactured curved, but has to be formed to a half cone shape, with a very tight curve towards the trailing edge. I did this placing the part on the bench, and progressively squeezingit using a clamp and two pieces of wood. I didn't do it in one 'squeeze', but by degrees, working up and down that end of the part. I found this quick and easy. 3. The last rivets in the ribs, towards the trailing edge, back onto each other. The manufacturer has offset the holes to avoid this, but in my build they still collided. After some discussion here, I shortened some A4 rivets by approx. 3mm. When used on both sides, this allowed them to be properly set back to back. (Some notes on shortening rivets in 'Tools'.) [ATTACH]43428[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]43429[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]43430[/ATTACH] Hi IBob One thing I heard about when sitting in on a Savannah kit building talk at Monto a few years back is when checking the diagonal measurement across the cabin top make sure your mm's are equal. At the time the build manual stated within 5mm. Probably should be 0.5mm maximum. If there not equal when you look down the wing rivet lines you will see there not aligned. I have not built a Savannah so check further with experienced Savannah builders and owners. Best regards Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 Hi IBob One thing I heard about when sitting in on a Savannah kit building talk at Monto a few years back is when checking the diagonal measurement across the cabin top make sure your mm's are equal. At the time the build manual stated within 5mm. Probably should be 0.5mm maximum. If there not equal when you look down the wing rivet lines you will see there not aligned. I have not built a Savannah so check further with experienced Savannah builders and owners. Best regardsMike Hi Mike, and thank you for that! I will check what my manual says, and also include that in my build notes when I get to that part. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blueadventures Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Thats good Bob. I like how your listing ideas as I believed it would be helpful to have a list of build stages when you should seek ideas and reminders about good build and optional parts in a way that does not over ride the manufactures instruction just suggest stop here and think / research a bit about new and altered methods and parts. I did not finish up with a Sav kit as I purchased another type. Finished it last October and know enjoying it. Building is great, just ride over any times you think your hitting a wall. If bogged down stay on track doing some small bits and next your nearly there. Enjoy and look forward to seeing your progress and hearing of your flying in the future. Cheers Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 Thats good Bob. I like how your listing ideas as I believed it would be helpful to have a list of build stages when you should seek ideas and reminders about good build and optional parts in a way that does not over ride the manufactures instruction just suggest stop here and think / research a bit about new and altered methods and parts.I did not finish up with a Sav kit as I purchased another type. Finished it last October and know enjoying it. Building is great, just ride over any times you think your hitting a wall. If bogged down stay on track doing some small bits and next your nearly there. Enjoy and look forward to seeing your progress and hearing of your flying in the future. Cheers Mike. Thanks again, Mike. You understand what I am trying to do, probably because of your recent build. This is a great aircraft and a great kit, and there is a wealth of information out there too. But it continues to evolve, and it helps me to be asking and noting, and maybe it will help others too. And maybe other builders will add to all this as they cover new ground, and so keep us all up to scratch. Yes, I'm really enjoying the build now I have a few systems in place and starting to get the feel of it. How long did your build take? And are you putting many hours on her? Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blueadventures Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 650 hours, did not have any painting, had to do wiring loom / harness from scratch. Now have 55 hours. Its fantastic to fly. Classic panel / gauges. (Images on the Skyranger thread - New Nynja to the area. Like your doing I appreciated the images and info so put my build images up to share with anyone interested.) Cheers Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 650 hours, did not have any painting, had to do wiring loom / harness from scratch. Now have 55 hours. Its fantastic to fly. Classic panel / gauges. (Images on the Skyranger thread - New Nynja to the area. Like your doing I appreciated the images and info so put my build images up to share with anyone interested.) Cheers Mike That's a great looking and aircraft, Mike. And fast! (well, compared to what I'm building). And you left an excellent set of build pics on here. There are some terrific Savannah build threads on here, but maybe I should so that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 4. Consider which method you will use to mount the plastic tip before riveting skins to top rib: some builders sandwich a strip of aluminium between skin and rib to give fastening for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 The Rudder tip is best fitted after the the Fin tip, to check there is no major misalignment: I needed to take a lot off the Fin, but a minimum off the Rudder. I used the supplied 'petal' strips, which are fitted in a straight line on the Rudder. I considered trying to measure the necessary offset from the skin, but ended up eyeballing it. Moving towards the trailing edge of the rudder, you run out of fastening, so I first interlocked opposing alternate petals, then flattened out the remaining petals and riveted those between the rib and the skins. The plastic Rudder tip is easy to trim with craft knife and straight edge. I use bits masking tape to temporarily mark either end of the cut, then lay the straight edge to these. The black pen marks on the aluminium skin are the location of the holes in the 'petal', so that I can place my final fastenings between these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Thanks again, Mike. You understand what I am trying to do, probably because of your recent build. This is a great aircraft and a great kit, and there is a wealth of information out there too. But it continues to evolve, and it helps me to be asking and noting, and maybe it will help others too.And maybe other builders will add to all this as they cover new ground, and so keep us all up to scratch. Yes, I'm really enjoying the build now I have a few systems in place and starting to get the feel of it. How long did your build take? And are you putting many hours on her? Bob I believe it will. I am not quite up to that stage but I would love to kick off on an aircraft build next year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now