spacesailor Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 The only Adze's I have seen in many year's, were all two handed four inch wide, most dangerous things, other than a big BlooXX woodsman's Axe. spacesailor
Litespeed Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 there is also a more delicate weapon of choice- a draw knife
Litespeed Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 Dirty dangerous damned things! Caused many leg wounds to their users. One technology (like some vintage aeroplanes) we are better off without. You mean like this little scratch..........
Old Koreelah Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 You mean like this little scratch.......... The adse of my youth was set at a much sharper angle to the handle. Designed to periodically glance off the workpiece and dig into your leg...
Litespeed Posted September 15, 2016 Posted September 15, 2016 Yes the Adze comes in all shapes and angles to attack the unsuspecting user. They are a fiendishly clever flesh removing device. Apparently also capable of removing wood as well. 1
IBob Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 there is also a more delicate weapon of choice- a draw knife Ah, the draw knife is a lovely bit of kit, and in my experience much easier to use than a spokeshave: my old Dad would use a spokeshave fluently both forehand and backhand (coming and going) for the rear legs of dining chairs, but somehow I just never could... The drawknife allows surprisingly fine finishing cuts: reason being that the handles allow fine adjustment of angle of attack. And using one is like using a really sharp plane on really good wood: you don't want to stop...)
IBob Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 It's great to see on this site that someone knows what an adze is and what it is used for! Yes, but do they also have all their toes???
Litespeed Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 Ah, the draw knife is a lovely bit of kit, and in my experience much easier to use than a spokeshave: my old Dad would use a spokeshave fluently both forehand and backhand (coming and going) for the rear legs of dining chairs, but somehow I just never could...The drawknife allows surprisingly fine finishing cuts: reason being that the handles allow fine adjustment of angle of attack. And using one is like using a really sharp plane on really good wood: you don't want to stop...) Yes they are a beautiful device- and damn expensive for a quality one. They are available in many profiles just like spokeshaves and sizes for that matter. Same as planes- they are not all the same and can have many different blade profiles and lengths. In my collection I have planes from smaller than palm size (razor plane) to 24 inch long and six inch wide and varying profiles. Even have some rebate planes- took me a while to work those ones out. Oh a a dozen or so Swedish saws- beautiful things. I love old school wood working tools. But sadly all dads drawknives are missing. Some say that spokeshaves are no good for really knotty wood- yes but do we really want to make a prop from knotty knarly hardwood?
Old Koreelah Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 ...The drawknife allows surprisingly fine finishing cuts: reason being that the handles allow fine adjustment of angle of attack. And using one is like using a really sharp plane on really good wood: you don't want to stop...) Stop it! I'm getting excited!
Litespeed Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 Ever considered an Aero Plane? Alan. Nah............... great grandaddy invented one of those...........no bloody market for it
IBob Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 Dirty dangerous damned things! Caused many leg wounds to their users. One technology (like some vintage aeroplanes) we are better off without. I'd say most shipbuilding timbers were once adzed: maybe safer to use on big heavy timbers that don't shift or bounce?
facthunter Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 What vintage planes are you better off without? Nev 1
Old Koreelah Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 What vintage planes are you better off without? Nev Those with a reputation for killing the unwary. I'm thinking of a large De Havilland that was lovingly restored after a fatal crash, then killed a few more.
Riley Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 Those with a reputation for killing the unwary. I'm thinking of a large De Havilland that was lovingly restored after a fatal crash, then killed a few more. Old K. It was VMC into IMC that killed those people - not the old deHavilland. Old aircraft are like old aviators, if they're kept in good condition they have lots to offer. I wouldn't swap my 70-year-old Aeronca for three plastic fantastics. 1 3 1
facthunter Posted September 16, 2016 Posted September 16, 2016 The Dragon is safe enough. Just like a larger Tiger Moth. and did a lot of good work dropping goods in floods. It's payload for 2 x 130 HP motors was exceptional. Nev 1 1
Litespeed Posted September 17, 2016 Posted September 17, 2016 The Dragon is a beautiful aircraft. I don't know of any aircraft that can survive going from VMC to IMC to cummulus granite. Those clouds of rock are a definite party stopper
Litespeed Posted September 18, 2016 Posted September 18, 2016 Shady asked for more info on one of my posts..... this is the type of sander I had in mind- I have one and its brilliant- just add no clog wood sanding pads instead of the oxide type. great for lovely smooth contours and very easy on the hand. Does not have a vaccum attach at this size though. sorry for image size. This is a spoke shave and come in many sizes- easy to use and is not limited to making spokes. As long as the wood is fine grained- they are wonderful And here is the old beasty- dads first electric tool. This image is from a Victorian museum 3
Aero28 Posted September 19, 2016 Posted September 19, 2016 Here is a couple I have made out of Tas Oak or Victorian Ash. The one with the cracks in it was on a belt drive Suby and didn't leave the ground , just taxiing, too thin near the root , (hub) and is two separate blades. The other one was for a 440 Kawasaki belt drive but I never got around to using it. These are both three laminations. I have since made one for a 503 from Celery Top pine which is a lot lighter and would think Hoop Pine would be a close alternative. To make these I use a n electric planer for roughing them out and a automotive buff with a 24 grit 8" disc to get the final shape. these buffs spin at slow speed so you don't remove a lot in a few passes. It is used in a buffing motion not a grinding action. I cut the plan shape first on a cnc machine then glue together with epoxy, thats my take on it so.....yes have a go, its very satisfying to see your handy work at the end. Cheers Paul.
facthunter Posted September 19, 2016 Posted September 19, 2016 I would think you could do the flat side with a bandsaw and a jig to guide the twist. Watch out for sawdust. It's not as innocuous as we once thought. Computer guided spindle moulders may be the answer for large runs. Making stuff by hand is only as good as your worst worker. We used to get wood props for models that were filled with plastic after subjecting it to a vacuum to draw the moisture out.. Nev
spacesailor Posted September 19, 2016 Posted September 19, 2016 the Draw-knife is good when sharp!, I couldn't sharpen it properly, so back to the removable spoke-shave blade. spacesailor
Soleair Posted September 21, 2016 Posted September 21, 2016 I made the prop for my MiniMax. It is 65" x 42" pitch, from Tassy Oak & Queensland maple laminates. Took a week to make & cost less than $100. I think for my next prop I'll just use the maple: it's very easy to work, and lighter. Link to my post on the Max forum with photos here 5 1
IBob Posted October 30, 2016 Posted October 30, 2016 I made the prop for my MiniMax. It is 65" x 42" pitch, from Tassy Oak & Queensland maple laminates. Took a week to make & cost less than $100.I think for my next prop I'll just use the maple: it's very easy to work, and lighter. Link to my post on the Max forum with photos here That's a really nicely put together 'how to'. And I always wondered how it was done. Thank you!
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