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Posted

I only had 1 to make for my build which was the flap to get to the dipstick. Same as you Marty. I used a leftover bit of aluminium piano hinge after doing the ailerons & flaps. I used a wingnut style Camloc fastener. Great product & easy to open/close. During installation I somehow lost the fastener lock split ring that keeps the fastener attached when the flap is opened. I was going to get another one or make one but didn't & it is still like that 8 years later.

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Posted
6 hours ago, Old Koreelah said:

Neat work Marty.
If security is an issue, is it possible to install a long pin to lock those inspection doors shut? A section of piano hinge can serve as a secure latch, with the release pin accessible from somewhere inside your (lockable) cabin.

Thanks OK.

 

I don't know that it's that important to lock the hatches - can't see anyone wanting to steal a servo, and all you can do with the others is bugger around with the fuel system.  If they really wanted to hurt me they could just bung some sugar in the tanks, the petrol caps don't lock either...

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Posted
46 minutes ago, kgwilson said:

I only had 1 to make for my build which was the flap to get to the dipstick. Same as you Marty. I used a leftover bit of aluminium piano hinge after doing the ailerons & flaps. I used a wingnut style Camloc fastener. Great product & easy to open/close. During installation I somehow lost the fastener lock split ring that keeps the fastener attached when the flap is opened. I was going to get another one or make one but didn't & it is still like that 8 years later.

I think I've got 2x spare Dzus fasteners, so I'll use one for the dipstick (good thinking, I'd forgotten about that!)  It's not a wingnut but I do plan to carry around the big washer that's a perfect fit for the Dzus slot, I use it as an opener.

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Posted

ICP use Dzus on the cowls (and tail hatch) but Camloc on the oil inspection hatch, and also on the belly hatch.

The oil hatch is opened every preflight, and the action of the Camloc maybe lends itself better to those frequent openings?

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Posted

You might be right Bob.

 

Talking of the oil inspection hatch, I just drew it up on the top cowl but before I start cutting I'll ask some advice.

How big would you make it?  I'm thinking around 130mm x 130mm (D shaped with the flat side longitudinal on the cowl to allow the hinge).  That would probably make it realistically 120mm x 110 mm allowing for the seating under including the camlock/dzus in the round end of the D.

Comments?  Bigger?  Smaller?  (I have big hands!)

Posted
12 minutes ago, Marty_d said:

You might be right Bob.

 

Talking of the oil inspection hatch, I just drew it up on the top cowl but before I start cutting I'll ask some advice.

How big would you make it?  I'm thinking around 130mm x 130mm (D shaped with the flat side longitudinal on the cowl to allow the hinge).  That would probably make it realistically 120mm x 110 mm allowing for the seating under including the camlock/dzus in the round end of the D.

Comments?  Bigger?  Smaller?  (I have big hands!)

Try cut out in cardboard as you need to get hand in and remove oil can cap with your fingers and thumb holding it.  Any Sav or Skyfox aircraft locally will have a hatch.  My old skyfox had the camloc with the ears on it so did not need a tool to unlock and lock.  Cheers

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Posted

Here ya go Marty. This is on the S,  190mm wide x 105mm deep (IF the recessed lip was carried all the way round. Since it's not, 115mm deep at centre).
Doesn't need to be that wide, I'd guess it's supplied like that to cater for different engines/mounts.

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Posted

And here is a very tidy DIY hatch on a VG, probably a better fit for you.
100mm wide at the midpoint of the sides, 125 from hinge to fastener side.
(These are the dimensions of the final hole: note this also has an inner lip, so the cover sits down flush).

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Posted

FWIW, for hatches in the 6061 panel, they supply a doubler with a slightly smaller hole, which rivets inside the skin. This stiffens the edges of the skin, and provides a lip so the cover sits flush to the skin.
This is the rear fuselage side hatch, gives access to control cables and used to be where the battery was, you can see the doubler:

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Posted (edited)

And here are the underwing inspection hatches. Again they have a doubler riveted inside. In this case there is no lip and the cover sits on, rather than flush to, the skin, secured by rivnuts and hex head screws.

 

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Edited by IBob
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Posted

You can substantially reduce stress points by avoiding sharp radiuses on the corners of the hole you cut - and the doubler is an excellent idea that not only holds the inspection plate flush and secure, it also adds strength to the sheet that has been cut.

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Posted

If your dipstick top is just under the proposed hatch cover you don't need to get your hand in, just a thumb and  forefinger to undo the dipstick & remove/replace it. I can't remember exactly how big mine is but it is a bit less than 100 x 100. I epoxied a doubler underneath  with a wide end to accommodate the camloc keeper. Works a treat. When I painted it all in situ it was hard to even see it.

IMG942.jpg

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Posted
9 hours ago, IBob said:

And here is a very tidy DIY hatch on a VG, probably a better fit for you.
100mm wide at the midpoint of the sides, 125 from hinge to fastener side.
(These are the dimensions of the final hole: note this also has an inner lip, so the cover sits down flush).

DSCF2865.JPG

DSCF2866.JPG

Thanks Bob!  And everyone else too.

Yes I have to epoxy in a recess which is going to be difficult. Interesting how they've used nut plates on the hinge as well in that one. 

 

 

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Posted

Well, I got the oil hatch done.  Decided to go with the DZUS because otherwise I'd have to carry a different screwdriver for the camloc.  Besides, I had the spare DZUS.

I made the recessed bit out of a section of a "first attempt" fibreglass cowl that the owner of the moulds had given me, so it matched the curvature.  Epoxied that to the underside of my cowl and then hinged the door.

Size seems about right for my arm, especially as a bit of wrestling is needed with the oil tank cap - are they always this tight??

 

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Posted

Very neat, Marty. You must be well pleased with that!
Yep the cap is a bit stiff, but probably less so once you get a bit of oil on the seal.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

An update - on Saturday and yesterday @nomadpete has generously given his time and knowledge to wire up my instrument panel.  Almost done - it was fantastic to see the elevator trim moving and the little LED position indicator working after Peter figured out how to wire up the servo.  (Ray Allen don't make it easy, they start off at the servo with the correctly colour-coded wires but then join them to the 5-wire cable which goes the length of the fuselage - in different colours!)

Thanks again Peter!

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Posted

Again I have to thank Peter,  he spent most of Saturday working on my wiring.  At the end of the day most of the instruments were connected,  and I got to turn the ignition switch and see the trim indicator,  volt meter and hour meter on the tacho (0.0) light up. Then one more turn and the Rotax turned over (very briefly!) 

 

Today I spent a few hours making a wooden grip for the Y-stick (trouble is, now I'll have to make another one!)

I used a bit of scrap hardwood I found in the shed, no idea what it is but I think it'll have a nice reddish shade when I varnish it.

Fits my hand, but makes my wife laugh every time she sees it, for some reason...

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Posted

Upon sighting this amazing piece of work, why am I getting this overwhelming urge to make up a rude limerick, using words such as your location, "carving", "wood" and "stick"? :cheezy grin:

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

A Tasmanian thought that he could

carve a joystick grip out of wood

Said his wife with a laugh 

"If YOUR joystick was half

As big as that one, it might be quite good!"

 

 

 

 

Edited by Marty_d
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Posted (edited)

Never mind Marty. It comes to us all at some stage. You're a a lucky man, As long as she's happy with it, you are on a winner. "Oh Yea" Can't wish for much more.

Edited by planedriver
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Posted

After a couple of false starts I installed the PTT on the dildo, sorry, stick grip.  Tried insetting a smaller aluminium disk into the wood but it didn't work too well, so went with fully covering the end.  I think it works. 20230507_213635.thumb.jpg.48dfe0a3763ea03e4d4288cebc22ed0b.jpg

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