My Savannah S model rebuild Blog

[IBob]

Well stealing the cd from ICP isn't an option because since the Classic got away on them and morphed ever so slightly into the Land Africa they are a lot more careful about things like that.

Maybe also explains why they don't put out the manual in digital form...which would allow us to sort it out.....(

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Yes But I am not interested in making it for anyone else...too much work and too much high priced machinery needed..this is being done on a beer mans budget

 

 

[JimG]

Oh yeah........Beer !

 

Jim G

 

 

[Geoff13]

Oh yeah........Beer !Jim G

Back to work you.

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Yeah stop bludging Jimbo.... just been speaking to a guy about scanning the sheets...will have a go at it tomorrow to see if it will work and the accuracy. He in reality can scan the whole structure of the aircraft and it will format it in DXF so you can literally pull every part of the aircraft as a individual bit from the collective drawing. The accuracy is supposed to be 0.1mm

 

 

[JimG]

WHAT......... Bludging , I resemble that remark !

 

 

[eightyknots]

Yeah stop bludging Jimbo.... just been speaking to a guy about scanning the sheets...will have a go at it tomorrow to see if it will work and the accuracy. He in reality can scan the whole structure of the aircraft and it will format it in DXF so you can literally pull every part. of the aircraft as a individual bit from the collective drawing. The accuracy is supposed to be 0.1mm

Yeah stop bludging Jimbo.... just been speaking to a guy about scanning the sheets...will have a go at it tomorrow to see if it will work and the accuracy. He in reality can scan the whole structure of the aircraft and it will format it in DXF so you can literally pull every part of the aircraft as a individual bit from the collective drawing. The accuracy is supposed to be 0.1mm

I almost sense a knock-off Savannah coming on, "available at a dealer near you".

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Dont think so Hank...too much expensive machinery needed to do that. I just want to get mine done

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Went all they way over to the bad side of town today with a side to see if this scanner would do the job...its not good enough worse luck so its back to the manual way. I am making good progress now though since I made that jig so its much faster now.

 

Started to get the longerons sorted today as well. I am joining them just in the rear half of the cabin. The longerons have a new inner piece of longeron I made riveted to both the old and new it will be far stronger than the original. The sheet side rivets will go through the longeron and through the inner brace piece and the brace is also riveted to the top section of the longerons as well. It have also attached the brace into the secondary overlap brace that comes from the front. Its a bit hard to explain here hopefully the pictures tell the story. The guys building will know what I mean of course.

 

So the plan is to get the main top and bottom longerons joined then the frames made up and put in. I have a really good side sheet from Danny's wreck that I am measuring from as well I am using it to attach to the longeron as I can then use it as a drill guide for all the holes in the longerons that are not connected to the frames. First though I will get the alignment of the frame holes correct first on the longerons then this will make sure that the rear is in alignment. Of course everything will only be cleco'd and once its all done and ready I will use a laser to line it all up to make sure its square and in alignment.

 

Once I get all this lined up and done before riveting it all then of course I have a bit of cleaning and scotchbriting to do and start applying the black goop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

OKay okay...I was having such a good time this arvo I had to keep going after tea :).... I found where the centreline of all the rivets go on the longerons from the original ones and marked up the new longerons then placed Dannys sheet over then and clamped it evenly all away along and as I drilled the holes I put in clecos to keep the strips perfectly aligned. When I got to the back 2 sections I put my sheet on top of the lot and clecod it in from half way back as mine is crinkled and not exactly right in the middle then did the last rear section. So this is the top main side longeron all I do now is put it up against another one but opposite of course and drill the same holes and I have 2 top longerons exactly the same drilled ready to go. I will do the same process for the bottom main side longerons tomorrow then I can actually start putting in some frames as they will be in the exact correct spot as a original. I dont have to drill the frames of course as they are already done so its just the longerons I have to drill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Got the top and bottom side longerons all done for both sides drilled and the fitting graft done on the LHS. every thing looks sweet so far. Been working out how I can actually start rebuilding this. Tomorrow I will remove the other main side sheet and the top and bottom curves and just leave the floor there as a base line. Its is not that badly bent and the way I have made my repair frame it all sits in at the correct angle it should help in assembly. Once I get those other sheets off I can then graft the RHS main sheet longerons I made into the fuse and that will give me at least something to attach the frames to then I can make the left and right top longerons. Once those are in and grafted I can then pull out the bottom sheet and make those longerons then the entire frame will be complete ready for sheeting.

 

Its been a bit of a mission getting the longerons made and drilled perfectly but I am confident the back end will be just as accurate as if I had built a brand new kit. Will take a few more pictures tomorrow. So far its only been really 2 days on and off work to get the longerons made and drilled so not that much time so far. I should have plenty of pictures to come as now under the new tech manual you are supposed to have a build log etc so what better way than this blog doing it step by step

 

Mark

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

I got the other skins off today and left just the bottom skin to sort of give me some sort of base. Man I can tell you there is a lot of rivets in those sheet when your drilling them all out. Thank god for a air drill and those special bits Mick put me onto. Went to assemble the first frame to be replaced the largest one and found ICP has only supplied 2 of the 4 corners needs....damn knew it was going too good. Checked all the parts for the other frames and all seems to be there. I can rescue 2 of the corners to at least get a few things to be lined up anyway. Grafted the RHS top longeron and almost finished grafting the bottom one.

 

Danny came over today and we looked at it all and have decided the top deck, all 4 curved corners I can cut them on the guillo at work as they are under 3200mm and we will just mark and drill the holes using both out skins to make a good one. The sides will have to be lasered as they are way too much longer than 3200mm. The bottom deck is 3400 long so we have decided to make it in 2 pieces and just do a graft in the sheet. The graft will be at the tail section underneath as we can make it super strong and the load is no where near the same as at the front area near the cabin. So will do these on the guillo as well.

 

All in all a very successful weekend.

 

Lots of bent pieces laying around. Got to clean up the place this week and have organised to store these old skins after some cleaning up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Have been feeling crook the past few days so didnt get much done on friday or saturday. Missed the Flyin at Childers so was ticked off about that too..I never fly unless I feel well enough to do so...anyway woke up this morning feeling a bit better so wanted to get some more done on Mabel.

 

Started putting the frames together although had to use 2 slightly damaged corner ones as ICP short supplied 2 of the corners of frame 7 but at this stage everything is only being cleco'd to make sure it all fits and is square. Got the black goop this week as well so have applied it to the right bits in the right places for the time being. The original makers of this aircraft didnt use any on the frame joints or on the overlapping skins which I am really surprised at. Turns out Danny's S is similar maybe was put together by the same guys...even peeved me off you can see they put the corners of the frames over the stickers..didnt remove them and clean the area or cover it with goop. So there will be a few like this through out Mabel but not worth the drama to make me feel better. In truth probably will never cause any concern...just not what I would call being careful and trying to make something of quality. Pictures attached so you will see what I mean. My new frames were the same I removed the sticker and placed it on the frame out of the way so I still know the part number but the joints are clean.

 

So I assembled the frames which total 4 and the very last 2 which are sheet. I only have 4 longerons done and there is another 4 to do yet also I have to remove the bottom sheet which I can do now as well. I am really surprised just how strong it is even just at this stage. This is why the S has higher VNE than the XL I am sure. The back end by the time the sheets go on is much stronger than the XL . So time to make another 4 longerons for the very top and underneath and get them in place then cleco the lot and look at checking it all with a laser but even at this stage its looking pretty damn fine to me. I am very pleased with it.

 

Danny spent today removing the sheets from his S so we can look at making them and I will also need both his and mine to be able to drill the other 4 longerons. We need to use both his and my sheets to make a good one for measuring. So the plan now is we will be cutting ourselves and drilling the top,bottom and 4 curved sections but will be getting the main sides lasercut as we cant cut the sheets that long and there are a few things on those sheets that make it easier to get lasered.

 

So this week I will work on the longerons and hopefully next weekend we will head off to my work and have a guillotine day cutting up sheet :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[IBob]

Great to see how you're pushing ahead there Mark. And while I have no other Savannah build to compare with...yes, the S rear fuselage goes together very neat and tight and strong feeling.

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

The XL has frames but square corners...no longerons at all. The frames rivet direct to the skin and there is only a few 45 deg braces along flat to the skin. There are top and bottom angle corner sections but not that large really either. The construction of the S although much more complex to get the curvy look is also quite a lot stronger

 

 

[IBob]

The XL has frames but square corners...no longerons at all. The frames rivet direct to the skin and there is only a few 45 deg braces along flat to the skin. There are top and bottom angle corner sections but not that large really either. The construction of the S although much more complex to get the curvy look is also quite a lot stronger

Clearly it's more complex, but it goes together very easily, including the skinning, I found. It really is Meccano, this part and very gratifying!

From new, that is: obviously repair work is going to be more demanding.

 

 

[eightyknots]

The XL has frames but square corners...no longerons at all. The frames rivet direct to the skin and there is only a few 45 deg braces along flat to the skin. There are top and bottom angle corner sections but not that large really either. The construction of the S although much more complex to get the curvy look is also quite a lot stronger

A few weeks ago, I lifted up a Savannah S fuselage frame from a builder on the South Island and I was very impressed with how light but at the same time how rigid and strong this was. And this is before there are any skins attached which will strengthen it a lot more.

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Been busy doing lots of stuff for Mabel maybe not to much to tangibly see. Have spent hours and hours getting the side skins measured and drawn. Accuracy is difficult too surprisingly. I have 3 side sheets here, 2 from mine and one from Dannys and some holes are up to .75mm out I am not sure if it is stretch or building so have had to do some averaging. So finally got the skins done and now getting the dxf file printed hopefully tomorrow from the guy next to work who can print it on paper at full size in one sheet so will see how accurate my drawings are. I expect to have to do some touching up but the base work is all done. Views are shown as solid sheet and also as a drawing

 

 

Last weekend Danny and I went to my work to use the big guillo. We cut up a lot of 16 thou sheet :). Took about 4 hours as we only wanted to cut once :) so we cut up 2 sets of top skins, 2 sets of bottom skins and 8 side curve skins plus also a set of rudder skins for me. Danny has hand made 2 sets of the top and bottom shoulder covers for just behind the cabin this weekend. Mine are a little bent and one has a small crack so best to replace them. I could swear I took photos of all this but for some reason I cant find them on my phone....so blowed if I know. Danny is setting up a big table at his place so we will have another day over at his place to drill them all in one hit. As soon as the side skin drawings are accurate I will get 4 of them lasercut.

 

Today I am going to make up 2 rib formers for the rudder. The bottom 2 are bent too much I should have ordered them when I got those frame parts in but didnt get to the rudder as I had been working on the fuselage so will show those and what the outcome looks like.

 

 

While waiting for all of this I am going to get the wings out this week and deskin them to see if the spars are damaged and then work out from there.

 

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Well that turned out to be easier than I thought. Danny has a new full fin and rudder kit so I borrowed the 2 bottom rudder ribs to copy the exact size so I could make the rib formers. Got the old bandsaw out I inherited from the late father in law and found I had to do about an hour of work on it to get it working nicely...so after that just be accurate on the measurements and the indents at the front then once cut out whip it up on the lineshear and round the corners etc. I just have to make the opposing holders now and put 2 locating hole through and its ready to get into making the new ribs. Quite surprised how easy it was to do. I flattened off the relieved holes in my bent ribs then just held it with the former in my vise and started tapping away with a nylon hammer and bingo....I wont be using them of course but needed to make sure of the sizing. You can see Dannys new ones on the outside and the rebashed ones on the inside...looking identical really.

 

 

 

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Ok I couldnt wait...found some scrap 16 thou to try this former out...works pretty darn good... pretty happy with the outcome...need some 20 thou for the bottom rib

 

 

 

[IBob]

You score 150% for genuine can-do attitude there, that's for sure...)

 

 

[shafs64]

Nice work kyle.

 

 

[eightyknots]

Keep it up: you're doing well.

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

The past 3 weeks have been a bit of a trial. The mother inlaw had a stroke so we have been at the hospital every night after work and now she is in a rehab place which is about 4 times the distance away so by the time we both finish work and head off to see her and get back I am stuffed so not much has been done. She looks like coming back here in a week or two so that will make things a bit easier and to top it all off had my dad in hospital for a hernia operation ..got him back home here now but he is pretty self sufficient although he is a pain in the butt because he wont take it easy...so hopefully he doesnt stuff it it.

 

Anyway been doing a few thing a bit when I can. The 0.020 sheet I got the plastic when you pull it off leaves the glue on it and its a nightmare to try to get off. I tried every thinner and chemical I could find and nothing moves it. I found after a lot of searching on the net that cleaning vinegar actually breaks it down. So I have been going through litres of it...lucky its cheap but you need to leave it on for about 4 or 5 hours and then I hit it with a gernie and it comes off but still very tedious. So need to track down a guillo that is about 4 mtrs cut and get that side sheet cut.

 

We now have all skins to take patterns from. I flew up 2 weeks ago to Peter's place near Proston about 100nm flight..well 4 aircraft did and landed on his strip. He is finishing a S and had a slightly damaged main side skin which he replaced so I have scored that in a contra deal with some radio work and will use it as a drill template so now we have all wing skins and all fuselage rear sheets and I will be keeping a set of each as templates that other can use if they wish if they do any damage to any of their skins so you can just buy a sheet and use it to make another replacement.

 

Danny has made the top and bottom shoulder sections and we have made the tank covers but all in one piece so instead of 2 covers underneath each wing there will only be 1. I think its a much better idea especially after the fuel tank leak dramas I have had. Danny has also welded another plate on the bottom of the noselegs as they are very weak I will post a pic. I did it to mine after we had the noseleg brael off about 3 years ago. I think ICP should make the plate thicker as standard

 

So hopefully things will settle down a bit over the next few weeks and I can start to get back into it properly

 

 

[rotax618]

G'day Mark, I have some very old 6061 sheets here which still have the white plastic on them, I made a new overhead switch panel for my Sav the other day. I soaked the piece in mineral turps for an hour and found I could easily peel the white plastic off using a razor blade, I then re-soaked it in turps and easily removed the glue with turps soaked Scotchbrite. Would probably be difficult on large pieces. Danny told me about the vinegar solution but I had no luck, the turps did the trick. I figured that turps must soften the glue of I wouldn't have been able to peel the plastic skin off.