My Savannah S model rebuild Blog

[IBob]

I like the sound of your auto fuel pump, Mark.

I would suggest the pump still needs to be started then stopped in manual prior to engine start and auto operation:

(Part of my) prestart goes like this:

1. Check tank levels.

2. Check all fuel valves and isolator are set as required.

3. Master switch on.

4. Fuel pump on: check fuel pressure rises > 2PSI.

5. Fuel pump off: check fuel pressure falls to 0. This checks that the fuel return, which has a very small orifice, is not blocked. The fuel return is essential to avoid the possibility of vapour lock in the fuel delivery system.

Since the fuel pump has a built in check valve, if the fuel return is blocked the pressure will not fall when the pump is turned off prior to engine start.

[Kyle Communications]

Yes I do something similar..you can still do this of course with this auto system. You do the check using manual then switch to auto. I didnt come up with the idea Roger a good friend of mine and the guru who is working the new regulator and Danny Leach did. I am just the first to wire and implement it.

 

[Kyle Communications]

Fitted my throttle mod design to Mabels engine. Its one of the preproduction versions but very happy with the way it has come up...tracking is perfect as well

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Update to whats been happening on the 90% to go

 

Got some of the Carlisle tyres for the mains from the guy down south. What a drama with the tyres trying to fit them and the tubes. I think I posted I had to get Danny to give me a hand but the tubes supplied dont fit very well at all and I managed to stuff a tube it got clamped between the hubs and stuffed it. I had the original tubes from the Carlisles that were on her originally so got one of those and it fitted so much better. but getting the tyres off the rims is just a nightmare. So I made a adhock puller so I could somehow press the tyre down on the rims to get one side free to replace the tube...it made it much easier but it was still crap. I think I will refine it and maybe start making a few to put out there as it seems to be a common issue. I thought one of the guys who went through 3 tubes the same way I did was doing it wromg...not really it is just a terrible thing to try to do.

 

Been working on the fuel system so the feed from the header tank goes to a throw away filter same as I had in the girlfriend..they are cheap and very good then off to the pump. Used a new fuel tap on the floor with a far better operating handle so thats halfway done. The fuel line will go to a gascolator mounted on the engine side of the firewall where the electric pump is on the std savannahs this again is as I had it on the girlfriend..A bit difficult working in that hole...dont know how I did it when I was 40kg heavier.

 

I was testing the current draw of the pump for danny so he could size his breakers for his Esqual rebuild and discovered how dirty the Facet pump is...I cant believe they dont have a freewheeling diode inside...sent my DC power supply a nice voltage bump up to 14.7V when I was feeding it 14V so I have put a diode on the pump that will stop any noise when its on...

 

In the pics is the new circuit I will use as standard now for Mabel and the RANS S-21. How many times have you taken off and forgot to turn off the elec pump also if you did lose fuel pressure from the engine driven pump and you didint see it the first thing would be the engine coughing or it stops. So this mod is pretty easy and gives you a manual option and auto.

 

It requires a pressure switch they are about $45  and this goes in to outlet side of your mechanical pump the switch has 2 contacts NO and NC. When the engine starts it will switch at 2bar so you use the normally closed side of the pressure switch to do the wiring in my diagram. You have a centre off switch on the dash. Auto/Off/Manual

So once you go to start the engine flick the switch to auto and the elec pump will start then leave it to build the pressure like normal...or you could select manual and do it the old way then once the engine is started flick it to auto the elec pump should turn off. If your any reason the mech pump loses pressure during takeoff or anywhere in the flight the electric pump will switch on and you will see a big flashing LED every time that pump is running. So in mid flight if it comes on you know you have had a failure but the engine should still be running fine, Its pretty simple but I think also effective and a extra level of safety.

 

Currently doing some plumbing of oil and water on the engine and will get back onto the avionics...one thing though I havent decided on is where to mount my headset jacks....didnt really like where I mounted them in the girlfriend..there must be a better solution...any suggestions or pics would be appreciated

 

Mark

 

 

 

[Blueadventures]

17 minutes ago, Kyle Communications said:

Update to whats been happening on the 90% to go

 

Got some of the Carlisle tyres for the mains from the guy down south. What a drama with the tyres trying to fit them and the tubes. I think I posted I had to get Danny to give me a hand but the tubes supplied dont fit very well at all and I managed to stuff a tube it got clamped between the hubs and stuffed it. I had the original tubes from the Carlisles that were on her originally so got one of those and it fitted so much better. but getting the tyres off the rims is just a nightmare. So I made a adhock puller so I could somehow press the tyre down on the rims to get one side free to replace the tube...it made it much easier but it was still crap. I think I will refine it and maybe start making a few to put out there as it seems to be a common issue. I thought one of the guys who went through 3 tubes the same way I did was doing it wromg...not really it is just a terrible thing to try to do.

 

Been working on the fuel system so the feed from the header tank goes to a throw away filter same as I had in the girlfriend..they are cheap and very good then off to the pump. Used a new fuel tap on the floor with a far better operating handle so thats halfwy done. the fuel line will go to a gascolator mounted on the engine side of the firewall where the electric pump on the is on the std savannahs this again is as i had it on the girlfriend..A bit difficult working in that hole...dont know how I did it when I was 40kg heavier.

 

I was testing the current draw of the pump for danny so he could size his breakers for his Esqual rebuild and discovered how dirty the Facet pump is...I cant believe they dont have a freewheeling diode inside...sent my DC power supply a nice voltage bump up to 14.7V when I was feeding it 14V so I have put a diode on the pump that will stop any noise when its on...

 

In the pics is the new circuit I will use as standard now for Mabel and the RANS S-21. How many times have you taken off and forgot to turn off the elec pump also if you did lose fuel pressure from the engine driven pump and you didint see it the first thing would be the engine coughing or it stops. So this mod is pretty easy and gives you a manual option and auto.

 

It requires a pressure switch they are about $45  and this goes in to outlet side of your mechanical pump the switch has 2 contatcs NO and NC. When the engine starts it will switch at 2bar so you use the normally closed side of the pressure switch to do the wiring in my diagram. You have a centre off switch on the dash. Auto/Off/Manual

So once you go to start the engine flick the switch to auto and the elec pump will start then leave it to build the pressure like normal...or you could select manual and do it the old way then once the engine is started flick it to auto the elec pump should turn off. if your any reason the mech pump loses pressure during takeoff or anywhere in the flight the electric pump will switch on and you will see a big flashing LED every time that pump is running. So in mid flight if it comes on you know you have had a failure but the engine should still be running fine, Its pretty simple but I think also effective and a extra level of safety.

 

Currently doing some plumbing of oil and water on the engine and will get back onto the avionics...one thing though I havent decided on is where to mount my headset jacks....didnt really like where I mounted them in the girlfriend..there must be a better solution...any suggestions or pics would be appreciated

 

Mark

 

 

 

Can you skim a bit off the hubs, is there enough meat in the thickness?

[onetrack]

I find a liberal amount of French chalk (talc) on tubes greatly assists in wheel and tyre assembly - and the talc also reduces friction and chafing between tyre and tube.

[IBob]

Hi Mark, I've been wondering the same thing about the headset jacks.

I have the Lightspeed headsets, which have the inline battery holder/controls pod about 400mm from the plugs, and I've yet to come up with an arrangement that works well with that.
Initially I had the sockets in the floor console, and the pod would end up between the seats, which was okay but a bit messy with a passenger.
I recently moved them to a box between the seat backs, had hoped the cable  and pod would sits over my right shoulder, but it slips off all the time. I'm now thinking along the lines of velcro or some such to anchor the pod: it's not something I need to access much once I get going, but I don't like it hanging loose.

Another popular spot for the sockets is down into the front corners of the baggage shelf, next to where the fuel lines etc go down. I believe this is where the factory fits them. I didn't put them there as I didn't want the cable between me and the door, but that's maybe not such an issue. I'd still have to anchor the pod somehow......

Do let me know if you come up with anything better?
 

Edited September 25, 2021 by IBob

[Blueadventures]

I mounted my headset jacks between top of seats. Now have Zulu 3 headsets and have the controllers in a holder attached to set belt harness. A convenient place.  I’ll post images later for you.

 

Mark re fuel pump image I do not ever use Teflon tape better to use the loctite product.

 

Cheers.

[jackc]

Loctite  Master Gasket 515?

[Blueadventures]

28 minutes ago, jackc said:

Loctite  Master Gasket 515?

I use 567 and 577 types.

[Kyle Communications]

I used that stuff originally and was going to get some but Danny said just to use the pink telflon tape as these are a BSP fitting so they have the tapered thread and he has always used this. He has been building and flying for more than 30 years. The pink stuff doesnt fail with petrol and it helps a lot with the tapered threads. Thats why I used it. If it becomes a issue then I will change it

 

 

[Blueadventures]

47 minutes ago, Kyle Communications said:

I used that stuff originally and was going to get some but Danny said just to use the pink telflon tape as these are a BSP fitting so they have the tapered thread and he has always used this. He has been building and flying for more than 30 years. The pink stuff doesnt fail with petrol and it helps a lot with the tapered threads. Thats why I used it. If it becomes a issue then I will change it

 

 

The filter will pick any bits up, the issue can be bits of tape that tear off when fitting. I recommend buying two tubes of loctite thread sealant and give one to Danny and throw the Teflon tape away from the plane stuff. A real issue would be if it is used on the outlet side of the gascolator as a bit could block a carb jet. Regards Mike and enjoy and learn from your posts.

[IBob]

2 hours ago, Blueadventures said:

I mounted my headset jacks between top of seats. Now have Zulu 3 headsets and have the controllers in a holder attached to set belt harness. A convenient place.  I’ll post images later for you.

 

 

 

Thanks Blueadventures, I'd like to see what you've done with the controllers: it's been one of those annoying details for me!

[Blueadventures]

8 hours ago, IBob said:

Thanks Blueadventures, I'd like to see what you've done with the controllers: it's been one of those annoying details for me!

Hi Bob  This is the holder my mate 3D printed for me.  They are orientated for screwing down horizontal and I feel in my limited space mounting onto the harness is better.  I would like the 'U' holding clips to face upwards not sideways and I need to ask if he can redo them that way.  Also can hold 2 spare batteries.  I made up so webb and velcro bands to hold the feed wire out of the way as well.  (middle image is upside down.)

Edited September 26, 2021 by Blueadventures

[IBob]

That's a neat arrangement, Blueadventures. Thanks for posting: I must see if I know anyone with a printer.

[eightyknots]

On 15/07/2021 at 10:26 PM, Kyle Communications said:

Mabel is getting some dress up today. paint finally going on. This was done about 2pm and the clear was about to go on. I will be picking all that up tomorrow then loading the other wing onto the rotisseri so it can be painted. Then hopefully maybe sunday I will be picking that up and it all will be going down to the hangar. Then the fuselage will go over for painting probably monday or tuesday not sure but it will be done sometime late next week. The fuselage will come back here for engine and avionics and controls to be done.

Finally starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel

That looks great so far. What kind of paint are they using?

[Kyle Communications]

Hi Mike...I have printed a couple of those holders as well ...how good is that new kevlar cable...I got both my Zulu 2 upgraded to the Zulu 3 versions I took that $300 upgrade option they had out. but the sockets cant be too far away from where you clip the holder onto...Might have a look at seeing where I can put them when wearing the holder

 

Hank the paint is Akzonobel  3000 its used by Airbus for all their aircraft. Its fantastic paint and is a basecoat system. I dont think I would want to pay the normal price. This was paint that Virgin uses on their aircraft but they changed colour slightly and we managed to pick it up for a song..cheaper than car paint by a long way. The spray painter told me it was the best paint he has ever sprayed...the next one wont be getting that paint 🙂

 

[Blueadventures]

21 minutes ago, Kyle Communications said:

Hi Mike...I have printed a couple of those holders as well ...how good is that new kevlar cable...I got both my Zulu 2 upgraded to the Zulu 3 versions I took that $300 upgrade option they had out. but the sockets cant be too far away from where you clip the holder onto...Might have a look at seeing where I can put them when wearing the holder

 

Hank the paint is Akzonobel  3000 its used by Airbus for all their aircraft. Its fantastic paint and is a basecoat system. I dont think I would want to pay the normal price. This was paint that Virgin uses on their aircraft but they changed colour slightly and we managed to pick it up for a song..cheaper than car paint by a long way. The spray painter told me it was the best paint he has ever sprayed...the next one wont be getting that paint 🙂

 

Agree Mark. Length between controller and plugs is short.  My jack sockets are between the seats so have the yellow holders on inner side of both seat belts, it’s convenient and the cord crosses to the left side of me (seated in left seat) and I clip the supplied clip on the left side of of the seat belt harness.  It’s a comfortable wear.  Yep the kelvar cords look very robust and flexible. I also sewed up some Velcro and Webb bands to hold the cord between the controller and the plugs to secure it onto the harness webbing. Cheers.

[Kyle Communications]

I havent had much time this past few weeks to work on Mabel. We look after my father and moter inlaw here at our place and things physically and mentally so a lot of time is taken up there. The past 3 weeks I have spent the majority of the days up at our farm as we finally have got our builder there...getting tradesmen now is so hard ...We finished as much as they could as they have other programmed jobs now and I hopefully will see them back late Feb is when I am booked in. The house now is to lockup so now I ahve the electrical to do and get the plumber and plasterer there...god knows when they will turn up. 

 

I should be able to get some stuff done now on Mabel. This weekend I finalised fitting the original cowl..I do have to mod the top half at the back to make it fit to the top deck. I fitted the exhaust system I made for the GF with the bigger muffler as the lower cowl will need to be modified for the muffler also the radiator positon and cooling inlet may need modifying. The pipes for the exhaust is pretty agricultural and need to be remade. Danny and I have been working on a new tube bender..a proper one that doesnt create or dent the tubes. I have the water circuit pipes pretty much sorted for the moment so they need finishing off but at least they look reasonably good.

 

 I will make a whole new exhaust when we get the bender finished. I got in titanium tube 32mm and also 1mm titanium sheet. also got some solid titanium bar as well 35mm. We use titanium sheet at work and we ordered a stack of it from the manufacturer so I piggy backed my stuff on the works shipment. So we are going to make new mufflers and also have worked out how to get the full tuned lengths for the exhaust headers even for the savannah. The RANS S-21 will be a lot easier as there is a heap of room behind the engine so can easily get the right lengths. This we believe will add at least 3 to 5 hp to the engine. Mabel and the S-21 have big bore kits fitted so should be hopefully around 118 to 120hp.

 

 

[planedriver]

Mate, it might be taking you longer than you hoped for to get Mable in the air, but it's looking good and i'm sure you'll get there before very long. As far as the house is concerned, I hope you are not using these tradies I pulled alongside recently.

 

[Kyle Communications]

Its taking so long to get anyone its crazy..at least we have all the gear though..most new places cant get the materials to even start building or renovating...as well as trying to get someone to do it. I have plenty of work to get done so gives me a buffer until they get back but really they will just be doing the final external finishing the main thing is the house is pretty much all weatherproof now.

 

This week I hope to get the cowl modified and on the way to new molds made and cutouts..then finish the avionics wiring now I have the pressure switch for my auto electric fuel pump and then get the twin sticks in. Wont be too long before I am ready to start the engine. I hope to have Mabel down to the hangar for assembly at the latest in the new year

 

[Kyle Communications]

This engine is a big bore and should need more cooling obviously. I have never been happy with the angle of the radiator in the cowl ..even on the GF. I never had any cooling issues with the oil temps but the water on really hot days it used to climb a bit so I decided to mod the radiator angle as well. I had to mod the cowl underneath anyway for the larger exhaust and its position so will just make a new section that gets glassed onto the current cowl then cut out the original to just leave the new

shape.

You can see in the pics the cutting away of the original cowl to get the clearances I want. Just have to come up with some filling material to make the new atachment which I will make a mold of in case anyone else wants to put a better muffler on a Sav.

I will still make a new set of exhaust pipes later but the current ones will be fine to get her flying

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Got a bit more work done tonight on the new cowl molding. The radiator is now at what I think is a far better angle. Originally it was probably stock at about a65deg lean back now its about 40deg and the opening will be made larger to get more air through the radiator. I dont think it will add too much drag at all. I have used corflute to get the rough starting shae to clear the radiator and down to the front of the muffler where I will make a new fence to drag the air out.

[Marty_d]

Hi Mark,

 

I'm going to have to do something very similar, I have the same muffler in what looks like same position as yours.

 

Coming into warmer weather now so won't be long before I'm able to fibreglass again.  The corflute to get rough shape is a great idea - thanks for sharing!

 

Cheers, Marty

[Kyle Communications]

Not my idea for the coreflute  Danny Leach is modifying his lower cowl for radiator input on the Esqual he is redoing and he came over a week or two ago to grab some bits from me and I saw he was using the coreflute to make his scoop....hahaha thought it was a great idea as well.   I used clear hd packing tape to attach to the cowl and the sides to the bottom are just hot glued together for the moment..this should make it solid. Then I will fill those big corners with that blue or green surfboard foam stuff and I should be able to start shaping it. The coreflute also gives yo the clearance from the internals to the cowl. Then once shaped I will cover the whole plug with tape and then run a few layers of glass over it to get the solid shape...then i think I will use that as the as the mold. It will aloow anyone then to put a bigger premade section onto their existing cowl then just cut out the inside.  Well thats the idea :)..will see if it works. The coreflute I got from Bunnings...the sides are 3mm and that front more substantial piece is 5mm