Savannah nose wheel

[mcrowley]

I'm merrily moving along on my Savannah S construction project. Question: as I'm trying to install the nose gear, I find that the nose gear tube is very tight in the upper firewall support. As this tube must rotate and slide up and down freely, has any one had to file or sand the hole larger to give the tube additional clearance? Thanks!

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Yes its a bit tight. It doesnt need much relief though. Any paint the the leg will wear off quickly. I used emery tape and skimmed the leg so it fitted easily where it goes through the bushing then masked off the area the leg will move through the bushing when painting it. It has worked a treat. You will grease that part of the leg anyway.

 

 

[dan tonner]

Hi Mike;

 

I have assumed your build has the same firewall arrangements as my 2010 XL VG. If so, the upper front gear tube is guided through a sandwich of eight pieces - (SF 225; SF353 [plastic]; the firewall "shelf"; SF 235; SM 025; the roller bearing; SM003; and SM002). The plastic guide is second up from the bottom plate (SF225). I have assumed the "binding" is happening through the plastic plate or through the center of the roller bearing located 3rd piece down from the top - not counting the top "cap" ( called "tap" in my assembly manual ).

 

Things to check before enlarging any openings:

 

1. Is SF 235 laying flat on top of the firewall "shelf"? (It's purpose is to "level" the surface between the front and rear "shelf" angulars). That surface carries the plate that supports the roller bearing when the tube is fully extended.

 

2. Is there any apparent paint buildup on the upper end of the front gear tube? If so, remove the paint on the tube and try the fit again.

 

3. Is there any apparent paint buildup on any of the sandwiched parts that might interfere with them lying flat?

 

4. You may find similar "binding" happening at the lower plastic guide at the bottom of the firewall if there is excess paint on the front fork leg at that level as well.

 

Alignment of all these parts, of course, is key. If the alignment is correct, I'd go after the paint on the fork leg first - when all is assembled, you don't want side clearance (other than what's needed for a good plastic-safe lubricant) between these guides and the fork leg. During my build and during two rebuilds of the front fork assembly (I'm not talkin' about it) the paint on the factory supplied front fork tube was thick enough to cause the binding. Some #400 wet sandpaper, applied as needed, freed things up.

 

Good luck; hope this helps,

 

Canada Dan

 

 

[mcrowley]

Thanks for the replies, I think I know the culprit. I did a beautiful job painting the nose gear leg, so.... I'll do some sanding ;-) A couple of additional questions: how much vertical travel does it need (to know how much to sand) and what does the leg "bottom out" against at it maximum upward travel? In other words, when the bungee stretches out or even breaks, what does the gear stop against? Thanks!

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

The engine mount firewall mounting bars