bexrbetter Posted January 16, 2017 Posted January 16, 2017 Gotta be quick, clecos gone, will be delivered to a prominent Rec Fly member who is building. Thanks again to Peter.
MajorTom Posted January 16, 2017 Posted January 16, 2017 http://recreationalflying.com/attachments/img_4341-jpg.47740/ When I see this picture from the rebuilt blog, I am not so sure about the sence of anti corrosion primer. 1. The primer is on one side only. 2. The primer doesn't seem to stick to the aluminium vere well. I have seen this on many different blogs.... Am I wrong?
IBob Posted January 16, 2017 Posted January 16, 2017 http://recreationalflying.com/attachments/img_4341-jpg.47740/ When I see this picture from the rebuilt blog, I am not so sure about the sence of anti corrosion primer. 1. The primer is on one side only. 2. The primer doesn't seem to stick to the aluminium vere well. I have seen this on many different blogs.... Am I wrong? 1. I started a thread about this last year, and got some very varied and sometimes strongly held responses. I also contacted the factory (as dealers around the world also seem to hold different views, including how it should be applied and what it actually does, and since the manual is not entirely clear), but the response just restated what the manual says: basically, apply where metal meets metal. After that I got no further response, I think they prefer us to consult our dealers rather than go direct. Fair enough, but the problem there is that the dealers often have a history of paint/treatment views of their own, and having arrived at their own personal interpretation, will stick to it, even though it may be inconsistent with the views of other dealers. If you see what I mean. And if you push hard enough, folk then start getting p****ed off. If RMORTON is going again to the factory, perhaps we could ask him to discuss this with them? 2. The primer sticks fine if the aluminium is cleaned with thinners/MEK: I have some samples lying around to prove that to my satisfaction. The streakiness you see was probably whatever was used for the application. Good luck!
Kyle Communications Posted January 16, 2017 Posted January 16, 2017 The rebuild thread is mine and you will see I have commented about this in the blog. The people who built it did not do what I did when I built mine. ALL mating surfaces had a even coating of the black goop and on every metal to metal mating surface. This rebuild did not have any coating on the overlapping side sheets you can see in the blog as well. If you evenly coat all mating surfaces this is the whole idea of it all to make it work...or alodine everything is another option Mark 1 1
rmorton Posted January 16, 2017 Author Posted January 16, 2017 I did speak to them at ICP about this and they basically confirmed what Kyle has said above and in his other threads. Paint each side of the surfaces that are in contact after first preparing them (I guess that means at least a degrease and scotchbrite, even better with Aluprep or similar) They added that if you can get Alodine that was the ideal solution as there is virtuallt no additional weight, but it is almost impossible to get in quantity in Italy and disposal can be very expensive. If you are building a float plane then you should epoxy prime all surfaces. Having said all that both ICP and my local distributor added that the black gloop is more than good enough for most uses. There are several spray on products that can be used after construction that provide a yearly protection so all isn't lost if you find you are developing corrosion later in the planes life.
eightyknots Posted January 18, 2017 Posted January 18, 2017 I think that priming mating surfaces is a must. This will prevent trapped water by ecoming an electrolyte, becoming a battery with the effect that corrosion starts. Some use alodyne on their whole plane but that stuff is pretty dangerous to use. 1
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