building my Savannah-S in germany

[IBob]

yesterday was wing tip wressling time....followed Bobs tipps and used a wooden nose rib

could not have done it without help, it was very difficult bring and hold the tip in place

 

the result lookes nice and straight, but the wingtip slipped a little too much inside the lower skin, esp. from the main spar backwards, see last pic

 

Don't know, if I schould close the drillholes and do it again from beginning???

 

[ATTACH]50271[/ATTACH][ATTACH]50270[/ATTACH][ATTACH]50266[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]50267[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]50268[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]50269[/ATTACH]

And I used a wooden nose rib because Mark of Kyle Comms used a wooden nose rib before me.

Looks pretty neat, Major T...but only you can decide if you'll be happy with it.

 

For me the second tip was not quite as good as the first (a little ripple between rivets) but I decided it would make no functional difference, and I can live with it.

 

 

[Osteri]

I use extra foam ribs between 60 cm ribs spacing and tip bottom skin.

 

 

 

[MajorTom]

And I used a wooden nose rib because Mark of Kyle Comms used a wooden nose rib before me.

Yes, I know. And I tried to find his post about it, to get even more input. But, I have always problems finding what I look for in his posts. Yours a so much easier to find and understand for me. ;-)

 

 

[MajorTom]

Still don't understand the tank / fuel system ...

 

- should there not be a return line from the carbulator?

 

- why are there return lines to both tanks?

 

Can someone please help me with a link to usefull info about the hole topic?

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Another NEW Savannah XL on its way post#104 a very early post :)

[IBob]

Yes, I know. And I tried to find his post about it, to get even more input. But, I have always problems finding what I look for in his posts. Yours a so much easier to find and understand for me. ;-)

I have found the Search function very useful on this site: it helps find stuff in the bigger threads, and also brings up multiple threads from different members.

 

 

[MajorTom]

I have found the Search function very useful on this site

Yes, for sure. But sometimes it don't works for me. Maybe the wrong search words... or something

 

 

[MajorTom]

As for the tanks...maybe it's some sort of 'rite of passage'?

No, it's more like a training camp for the international cursing contest !!!

 

I just can't get a trustworthy connection on the smaller fittings. The big ones are realy o.k. .... But on the smaller ones you have to assemble 2 clamps in the small gap betwen tank and rib. I can't get the risilan tube deep enough into the rubber hoose. Also the space betwen fitting and rib is just 1 cm. To little space for the clamp, I think. I would rather have a longer hoose and clamps on both sides of the rib.

 

I can't believe this is going to be leakfree. Lets say every fith connection is imperfect... and I counted 31 clamps...then I will end up with a leaking fuel system for sure. I can't do propper leak testing eather, because I don't know how to presurieze the system. Remember, I got the fancy flush tankclosings.

 

Any tips on the small sight gauge connections?

 

 

The rubber hoose in the pictures is missing for better view.

 

 

 

[IBob]

I think a lot of the build is assembly. But some parts of it require the builder to do extra work, to make small adjustments and decisions.

 

And I think everyone agrees that parts of the manual could be much better.

 

I think your tanks are just a little closer to the rib than mine are. Maybe this is the result of the new tank closings.

 

If there is not room for the hose clip between the end of the fitting and the rib then you will have to do what you already worked out: use longer hose and move the clip the other side of the rib.

 

As for leaking...why? If you have drilled cleanly, and put the tank fittings in carefully, tightly, and with the correct Loctite, and if you arrange your junctions so that they are well clamped (and you already worked out how to do that) then it will not leak.

 

 

[MajorTom]

Thanks for the support Bob. I was realy frustrated yesterday. It was a wrestling match, if I would not "waste" so much time deburring, I would have cut some fingers off or my wrists open.

 

Guess I will do as you sugguest. Use a longer hoose and clamps on both sides.

 

Other problem comes with wing two. I just got 4 big grommets, which I used up already. Also just 4 small clamps, which I also used compleatly on my first wing...

 

 

[MajorTom]

I stopped working on the fuel lines and put the wing on the wall. Did some prepping for chapter 14 instead.

 

 

The hole topic is frustrating. I'm totally unexperienced and have no reference. So I should built it, like ICP tells in the manual. Problem is, I can't get myself to trust them. It just seem not right. I don't want to end up with leaking fuel lines in fully rivited and painted wings. I need to test the fuel system, whem installed in the wing. There seems to be no use to do it on the work bench. All the difficult couplings are done when putting the tank into the wing. If have seen a video once. They used latex gloves as indicator and did a pressure test.

 

Pressure Testing Fuel Tank

 

But therefor I need to get the fancy flushtype tank openings sealed...

 

And... do you think this connection is o.k.??? The hose seems a little to wide for the tube?

 

 

 

 

[IBob]

Yes, I debur also because it is basic good workshop practise: not to leave sharp edges. The apprentice would have got his ass well kicked for that!

 

The whole build is not Leggo and sometimes we have to stop and think, sometimes go back and change things too.

 

I think you have an extra difficulty trying to work from a manual that is in sometimes very badly translated into English. And then you must try to translate it into German.

 

But when I have tried to work only from the pictures, I made mistakes also, so the best way I have found is consult all parts of the manual: the writing, the assembly pictures and the spares exploded pictures. And also many pictures posted on this site. And then sometimes still you must make your own decision.

 

I think you are working through the problems okay: if that hose looks too big to you, then you already know what you must do. Same as you already worked out to move the clamp outside the rib.

 

And take time to remember that you are building a very good aircraft.

 

 

[MajorTom]

The apprentice would have got his ass well kicked for that!

Sorry...don't get it...

 

Well, thank you Bob. You are right. Best to put things that need more thinking aside and take my time desiding what to do.

 

 

[mcrowley]

I stopped working on the fuel lines and put the wing on the wall. Did some prepping for chapter 14 instead.[ATTACH]50388[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]50387[/ATTACH]

The hole topic is frustrating. I'm totally unexperienced and have no reference. So I should built it, like ICP tells in the manual. Problem is, I can't get myself to trust them. It just seem not right. I don't want to end up with leaking fuel lines in fully rivited and painted wings. I need to test the fuel system, whem installed in the wing. There seems to be no use to do it on the work bench. All the difficult couplings are done when putting the tank into the wing. If have seen a video once. They used latex gloves as indicator and did a pressure test.

 

Pressure Testing Fuel Tank

 

But therefor I need to get the fancy flushtype tank openings sealed...

 

And... do you think this connection is o.k.??? The hose seems a little to wide for the tube?

 

[ATTACH]50389[/ATTACH]

Every couple of months I take another hour of training in a factory built Savannah. It reminds me why I'm building, gets me excited about how well she flies, and to be honest... my build looks pretty good compared to a factory build :-). Keep going, it will be worth it!!

 

 

[MajorTom]

No building yesterday... just some cleaning up after I preped all skins and parts for the left wing. Today i just have to grab the stuff and cleco it together. It is just like in the zenair videos. In one hour the wing strukture rises from nothing to "wow, an real airplane part, this is so amazing".... What the don't show, is the 20 hours deburring, priming and stuff... But I'm not complaining... I like doing it.

 

What I did yesterday... I tested my newly arrived digispark boards.... tried a simple strobe sequence.

 

http://savannah-blog.de/uploads/strobe-vid-1.mp4

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

Interestingly I saw a newer sav S kit almost finished 2 weeks ago when we flew up to the guys farm and I have to say I am not a big fan of this stainless corrugated tube they are using for the fuel...it just doesnt look right. It is also extremely thin...it wouldnt take much to put a hole in it or a rub through

 

 

[rankamateur]

I am not a big fan of this stainless corrugated tube they are using for the fuel...it just doesnt look right. It is also extremely thin...it wouldnt take much to put a hole in it or a rub through

I have been having a hold up with my priming waiting for a new pipe for my Toolex compressor so I can get reliable pressure. The failed pipe is this same stainless pipe with formed ends and has cracked through one of the corrugations. Hasn't given me much confidence in it's durability where there is vibration.

 

 

[IBob]

Major T, what sort of Loctite is that on your tank fittings?

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

What I did yesterday... I tested my newly arrived digispark boards.... tried a simple strobe sequence.

http://savannah-blog.de/uploads/strobe-vid-1.mp4

Did you just get the digispark pcb? or did you order them from the youtube guy built up. I had a look at the Youtube video of that guys strobe..thought it was really good especially the 20w leds It would be good to mount the lot in a clear molded mount to fit and just feed the power to them. I am going to order some of the digispark boards and just make them as separate units and pot them in clear. Its so cheap to just do it. If one fails then just put on another. So much cheaper and more powerful that the commercial ones. Also no need for a heatsink which was the issue before I was wrestling with in design

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

I have been having a hold up with my priming waiting for a new pipe for my Toolex compressor so I can get reliable pressure. The failed pipe is this same stainless pipe with formed ends and has cracked through one of the corrugations. Hasn't given me much confidence in it's durability where there is vibration.

After seeing that pipe on Peters build...I wouldnt be using it. I am very happy using the EFI type hose with the teflon inner

 

 

[MajorTom]

Major T, what sort of Loctite is that on your tank fittings?

It is the loctite 577 I was supposed to use. The blue color comes from the blue pen I used to mark the exact spot for the drill.

 

After seeing that pipe on Peters build...I wouldnt be using it. I am very happy using the EFI type hose with the teflon inner

I'm not confident with the fuel line setup ether. Why not using good hose lines only. The steelpipes just double the number of joints. I could live with some experimenting around in places with easy access. But I dont wan't to open my wings ever again!!! Can you sent me a link to the sugested hose???

 

It would be good to mount the lot in a clear molded mount to fit and just feed the power to them. I am going to order some of the digispark boards and just make them as separate units and pot them in clear. Its so cheap to just do it. If one fails then just put on another.

This is exactly what I want to do. Cut off the USB connector, when the arduino/digispark is programed, solder a mosfet and some red/green+white LEDs together. Don't want to waste space using a board. just soldering.... Then drown all into clear resin... finished.... At least, this is the plan.

 

Problem with the 10W / 12V LED modules is, they might be to weak in "burst mode" on 12V (or generator 13,8V ?) The guy uses 4 lipo cells to run his experiment....

 

Therefor I ordered a bunch of single high power LEDs. The are 3W on 3,2V. Idea is to put 3 of them in line and two lines parallel. This gives 18W on 9,6 Volts.... Yes, they would burn out on 12V.... but they just have to life throu a burst pattern... lets say 3 times on/off for 70ms/70ms and a break 700ms .... If this is to much for them, you can adjust the pattern.... Hope this works...

 

I ordered all stuff from banggood.com.... it is so cheap...

 

void setup() {

 

//Initialisierung der digitalen PINs

 

pinMode(0, OUTPUT); //LED on Model B

 

pinMode(1, OUTPUT); //LED on Model A or Pro

 

}

 

void loop() {

 

digitalWrite(1, HIGH);

 

delay(70); //wait 70ms

 

digitalWrite(1, LOW);

 

delay(100);

 

digitalWrite(1, HIGH);

 

delay(70);

 

digitalWrite(1, LOW);

 

delay(100);

 

digitalWrite(1, HIGH);

 

delay(70);

 

digitalWrite(1, LOW);

 

delay(700);

 

}

 

 

[MajorTom]

Yesterday, after prepping all parts, I put my left wing together. My son helped me make a time laps video.

 

http://savannah-blog.de/uploads/savannah-wing.mp4

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

I have ordered a few digisparks...they are so stupid cheap...I have some 20w leds here for 12-14V operation but I Banggood have them cheap as chips now too..5 bucks for cool white 20w so will order a few. What I really liked and would increase the looking power is the lens collimator...I will get a few of them to try. It would make it all easy to mount as well I think.

 

44mm Lens+Reflector Collimator+Fixed Bracket For 20W-100W LED

 

You should be able to just power everything from the 12V system on the aircraft and the duty cycle of the led flash should not cause any harm to the led and no special drivers needed either

 

Mark

 

The fuel hose I will see if I can find a link but its the standard fuel hose used for EFI petrol cars...its available in a lot of places here its very common...also used in the marine area for hose up to the outboard motors

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

EFI Fuel Hose 5/16 8mm - 1 Metre Length Gates Brand Petrol Diesel Ethanol E85 | eBay

 

This is the sort of hose. It has a teflon or plastic style tueb in the rubber that the fuel is in. This stop the ozmosis so no smell comes from the hose either. I am sure once you look over there you will find it easily. Just look inside the hose and you will see the special liner...also with EFI they have a kevlar stringer through them so they are very tough

 

 

[MajorTom]

44mm Lens+Reflector Collimator+Fixed Bracket For 20W-100W LED

Lookes nice, but would they not decrease the viewing angle. I would rather use a sixpack of LEDs pointing in different directions, covering a wide angle. And of corse there needs to be the green or red countinous LED pointing forward. Hope I will get the rest soon to try.

Thanks for the link. I will see if I can find some in germany.