MajorTom Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Or drill out and use the A4 coutersunk rivets in the kit.... Maybe countersinkink this part is not that important, but I don't know. Have not been reading all the manual. Just wanted to start after 35 hours of sorting and checking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorton Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 That is understandable, and it is time well spent. I think it is important because the tail is held on the two captive nuts and the face of the spar must be flat against the fuselage former. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Well, it moves on.... Finished my fin on friday. Result locks good to me. Little obstacles where easily solved due to prewarning from Bob and Co. .... Thanks again. Spend 5 hours on saturday to debur and prime all parts for the rudder. Seems very long, when I think of it, but while doing it, I had the impression it worked very well. I found my upper rib to be deformed. The part must have been twisted during manufacturing. I decided to glue im some scrap alu, so there is enough material to redrill the hole for perfect fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 On Sunday, I was thinking it would take just 2 or 3 hours to assemble the rudder, now that all parts are ready. Thought wrong. It would not have taken long to do the inner frame and the two skins, but there where springy covers. They gave me something to think about. In the end, with a little bending esp. of ST515 it worked out nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 One thing seems odd to me. The fin tip is just to big. It could be bent, but the part is heavy and strong. And if I bent it to fit the fin, it will still be to fat on top. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 In regards to the countersunk rivets I could not find mine.....after looking 10 times....then I stumbled across them...they look like normal rivets at first glance. But they will most likely be there but you have to look hard to actually see they are countersunk one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 The plastic caps I did things a bit different than the kit. Although there was no mention in the manual about how to fit them. There is some special right angle strips for the purpose but I didnt use them. I liked my solution better. I made my tips on the main stab removeable with rivnuts. Its in my blog I will see if I can find it. It should be in the early stages Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Another NEW Savannah XL on its way post#159 Another NEW Savannah XL on its way post # 259 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 The plastic caps I did things a bit different than the kit. Although there was no mention in the manual about how to fit them. There is some special right angle strips for the purpose but I didnt use them. I liked my solution better. So do I..... will try your way first. Like the idea with the stripes betwen skin and rib. Anyway now the manual says you are to use the flexible angled stripes. Still there is the problem with this overszised fin tip... Guess I take some epoxi an a make my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 From memory I used my strips then used a heat gun to make it form better on the fin top and not look like such a bulge. beware though heat slowly. I also used a Jabiru static port and fitted it to the fin..the static ports on the side of the fuse dont really work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightyknots Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 I have asked Reg to chase ICP about whether we can buy the new fuel tank filler fittings as spare parts What year model did ICP introduce the new fuel tank filler fittings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Got no idea Hank...but it couldnt be too long ago thats for sure. The last container of aircraft that Reg got I dont thik has them in the kits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 I'm coming to point, when there is the first cable to be put into the plane ( elevator trim ). Is there a handbook on how to do the riring in a plane? Found this post, (picture 4199) but don't think this is how it has got to be. Lyndons Savannah VG Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 My manual shows where to put the hole in the centre skin, and at the wingtip, for the cable. A pic in my manual appears to show cable ties along the rear longeron. But I am going to move my cable forward, as other builders seem to have done. I think it's up to the builder to make his own arrangements for mounting and protecting the cable. Though I can confidently say that the cat shouldn't be in there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Just ran into trouble. I tried to put the skins on o the elevator. The front line of holes on both, upper and lower skin are about 3 mm to far forward. Yes, I double checked if I mixed directions, right, left, up, down or mixed up ribs.... No everything seem perfekt to me. The holes in the ribs and the longerons fit together perfect. The holes in the rear longeron and the ribs fit perfect to the skins. Problem is just the front line of holes. Not even the holes in the ribs fit to the holes in the skin. Actualy they do, except the foremost one. Thats the same on all ribs. There seems to be not to much I can do wrong, to the fitting of this one hole in every singe rib. Any ideas? I could just imagine to adjust the distance betwen the longerons and redrilling this two holes ( upper / lower side) on every rib. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Talked just to @rmorton.. He has excatly the same problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Check you have the brackets SD014 orientation correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 If you Cleco everything together including the nose skin that front hole will still not line up so drop the drill through the hole and rivet as usual. It is the same on every kit I have worked on. I think the hole in the rib is at fault, but cant remember for sure, take note as you put the nose skin on, whether to drill the rib or the top sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 Check you have the brackets SD014 orientation correct? Thanks Bob...good idea. Checked them... they are o.k. whether to drill the rib or the top sheet. Checked that too. Have to drill the rib and get the forward longeron 3mm out. Guess I cant just drill the rib. The result would be a longhole ( something like: (__) ) Am I to close the hole before I drill a new one? Otherwise the rivet would not grip, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorton Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Thomas if this is the only hole out of alignment and you put the stiffeners in at this position then I don't think a long hole would matter. I have just found a guillotine and sheet metal folder at work !!! Happy days :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Are the holes in the forward longeron 3mm out along the full length of the longeron? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorton Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 On mine it is just the hole in the rib and not the spar that is out 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorTom Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Are the holes in the forward longeron 3mm out along the full length of the longeron? Yes Bob, but that was my fault. After the fin and rudder went so well, I completly rivetet the 6 ribs and the 2 longerons together. Made it nice and square and parallel, but followed the misplaces holes in the ribs. So I had to dissassemble the forward longeron. Had I left the clecos in until the last moment, I would have realised earlier and would have avoided some rivet out drilling. (learning by doing ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorton Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 It's good practice though ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IBob Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I assure you, we all learn to remove rivets. Sometimes quite a lot! Certainly, I have learned (the hard way) to assemble as far as possible with clekos before reaching for the rivet gun. So, if the only issue now is the one hole per rib, you should be able to cleko the skins in place with good results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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