rhtrudder Posted January 21, 2018 Posted January 21, 2018 mate just rang me about his starter failing , solenoid pulls in , good battery, but only small movements of the prop then nothing , any ideas ?
IBob Posted January 21, 2018 Posted January 21, 2018 If the engine turns over in the usual fashion by hand... and if the battery is good, then either a) the power is not getting to the starter due to deterioration of wiring/terminals/starter contacts or b) there is some fault with the starter itself. If possible I would be metering at the starter motor while trying a start, to see what voltage is arriving there. This would help indicate if the problem is a) or b)
bones Posted January 21, 2018 Posted January 21, 2018 be the sprag the drives off the starter not the starter more than likely, ill bet the prop is real jerky?
spacesailor Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 How many of you (collectively) have ever checked your "Alternator brushes" on the car?. spacesailor
rhtrudder Posted January 22, 2018 Author Posted January 22, 2018 What’s a alternator, so I’d say never!
spacesailor Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 PMC Wrong!, has a normal two brushes set, which puts 12v into the alternator . thats the reason why flat batteries wont charge by atternator. Have you seen any of these, Blade contact-breaker. spacesailor
skippydiesel Posted January 27, 2018 Posted January 27, 2018 PMCWrong!, has a normal two brushes set, which puts 12v into the alternator[ATTACH]53650[/ATTACH] . thats the reason why flat batteries wont charge by atternator. Have you seen any of these,[ATTACH]53651[/ATTACH] Blade contact-breaker. spacesailor Pretty sure JayCar has the blade contact breakers
John Nooyen Posted January 27, 2018 Posted January 27, 2018 Tested Battery and solenoid on mine, and were OK. Engine was cranking weakly. Turned out to be the starter motor brushes (Very worn). Denso part 028510-0651 brush plate fit in mine. Lots of carbon inside the starter to be cleaned. (Arcing out the communicator I guess) Bearings and seals were OK. Not sure what Rotax charges for set of brushes. Cranks as good as new now.
Downunder Posted January 27, 2018 Posted January 27, 2018 A quick and easy way to test the strength of the starting system. Remove one plug on each cyl and turn over with mags off. Record rpm. This gives an unloaded (no compression) test. Re fit plugs and test again. If rpm's are the same, it means your system is strong as it can crank the same rpm's loaded as unloaded. I'm personally getting about 420-440 rpm in both situations, so pretty happy about that. 912 ULS (100 hp) 1
spacesailor Posted January 28, 2018 Posted January 28, 2018 BIG difference on mine!. My arm gets tired. LoL
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