5 volt USB power for Ipad charging noise on radio

[seb7701]

Thanks mate - needless to say, you're spot on. I was aware of the heat sink aspect and really had no way to be able to work such into a little space such as an existing charger.

 

I have essentially chickened out of the idea and instead like the look of these perhaps, from the UK-

 

Universal USB power / chargers designed for Light Aircraft

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

I might do the calculations and see how big a heatsink will be required to make them with the LM338. It will sit in a box somewhere in the aircraft with a lead to a charging socket. That would be the easiest way

 

 

[seb7701]

Could be good. It's been interesting but definitely a USB charging issue. I finally remembered to plug in my handheld GPS and no issue whatsoever....

 

 

[lyle janke]

Thanks mate - needless to say, you're spot on. I was aware of the heat sink aspect and really had no way to be able to work such into a little space such as an existing charger.I have essentially chickened out of the idea and instead like the look of these perhaps, from the UK-Universal USB power / chargers designed for Light Aircraft

hithis certainly looks like the answer but the exchange rate would kill the idea for anybody but the rich a lot of work gone into the idea but not much use if you can`t get them to the masses

 

lyle

 

 

[boleropilot]

I have installed a 3 unit panel that contains a 12 volt voltmeter, 2 x USB ports and a 12 Volt 'marine' style socket - it cost under $20 but I haven't used it yet so I don't know if there will be any noise (or other) issues.

 

the website for this (and other panels) is: 12v usb voltmeter panel - Buy Cheap 12v usb voltmeter panel - From Banggood

 

please, no sniggering about the name of the company - they do also sell a lot of quite good quality electronic 'stuff', including 5 volt thingos...

 

they are a little slow with shipping but it is free and I have never had an issue with anything I have bought from them

 

BP

 

 

[boleropilot]

and of course

 

Plus Size Women 3D Pussy Panties Cute Cat Dog Animal Modal Soft Seamless Underwear Briefs

 

told you they sold interesting stuff

 

 

[boleropilot]

I crack myself up, I really do..............

 

 

[Kyle Communications]

I love Banggood I buy heaps from there..they have some great tools as well..also LED's etc some LED now you just connect the mains directly onto..bolt it to a huge heatsink and you have floodlights for 8 bucks. Crazy the prices but yes it can take 3 weels or so to get the stuff. I found these which I had never seen before. it drills the hole and taps the thread...great for doing alu panel work

 

Drillpro 6pcs M3-M10 Combination Drill Tap Bit Set HSS 6542 Titanium Coated Deburr Countersink Bits

 

 

[PeterJohn]

Hi...i am a new user here. As per my knowledge noise is generated in the crappy 12v to 5V converter you are using as they are switch mode . If you want to do it properly you need a proper linear regulator to do it. BUT they will be much larger and also have to have a heatsink.

 

 

[cscotthendry]

Hi...i am a new user here. As per my knowledge noise is generated in the crappy 12v to 5V converter you are using as they are switch mode . If you want to do it properly you need a proper linear regulator to do it. BUT they will be much larger and also have to have a heatsink.

If you're flying with an iPhone or iPad and getting noise through the radio while on the charger, first make sure the wifi is turned off. It seems like the apple devices go into a high power mode when they're on charge and if the wifi is looking for a connection, it makes a lot of radio hash. It seems to be worse on some frequencies.

[SDQDI]

If you're flying with an iPhone or iPad and getting noise through the radio while on the charger, first make sure the wifi is turned off. It seems like the apple devices go into a high power mode when they're on charge and if the wifi is looking for a connection, it makes a lot of radio hash. It seems to be worse on some frequencies.

Just remember if you are using ozrunways on your iPad turning off wifi turns off gps so location accuracy can be reduced.

[cscotthendry]

Just remember if you are using ozrunways on your iPad turning off wifi turns off gps so location accuracy can be reduced.

Sorry, but that is not correct. GPS works independent of wifi. There is a little dot in the upper right side of the OzRunway screen that is yellow when no GPS is available, and green when GPS data is valid.I have seen apps report something like "Position accuracy is increased with wifi turned on", but I don't know how that works.

 

 

[Downunder]

I have seen apps report something like "Position accuracy is increased with wifi turned on", but I don't know how that works.

Yes, I've seen that too. I was thinking there is some sort of triangulation of mobile towers?

[SDQDI]

That is interesting as I was under the impression that with wifi off that the iPad only relied on mobile triangulation?

 

But I only assumed that, never checked why that notice came up

 

 

[SDQDI]

https://www.scienceabc.com/innovation/how-does-turning-on-wifi-improve-the-location-accuracy-of-a-device.html

 

That is well worth a read and explains the wifi helping location phenomenon.

 

In short it has nothing to do with gps, most wifi points have location recorded on a google database and those that don't are automatically recorded if your device sees them and you have clicked I agree at the right time! At no time does your device have to connect to these wifi points to have this all happen.

 

It is amazing and really scary all at the same time!!

 

 

[fly_tornado]

A couple of years ago google street view cars got into trouble for scraping SSIDs as they were photographing the street

 

 

[Blueadventures]

Looking at changing out the JayCar dual usb 5v outlet in my panel as get some noise at times that stops when I pull out the USB then will come back later when plugged in.  Would like to fit a unit that fits the usual car type cigarette outlet size.  Has anyone purchased and used with success a unit.  Thanks in advance.

[Garfly]

I wonder how this Flight Gear one would work. 

 

Of course, there's also the Garmin GSB-15 but that's a proper panel mount job and well over 10 times the price.

Either solution offers two 3A outputs which, they say, keeps two iPads going full bright. 

Whether standard Rotax electrics would keep up with that much additional current draw I'm not sure.

 

https://www.sportys.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=garmin gsb 15 usb

 

https://www.sportys.com/flight-gear-dual-usb-quick-charger.html

https://ipadpilotnews.com/2020/05/new-dual-usb-charger-is-perfect-for-the-cockpit/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXKb_7PfW8c

 

 

 

Edited July 28, 2022 by Garfly

[RFguy]

most of the problems with noise relate to the power supply circuitry inside these not having small suitable input capacitors. reality - cheap design and mfr.  

They are for most people too hard to modify so its a matter of finding one that is radio quiet.

 

if you can pull it apart, solder in disc ceramic capacitors with 1/4" leads across the 0 and 5V of the USB sockets, (which is the OUTER pair of contacts)  and the 12V input on the PCB itself.

 

https://www.jaycar.com.au/10nf-50vdc-ceramic-capacitors-pack-of-2/p/RC5348?pos=2&queryId=e517493d3ef57325d5af7d045f0b4676&sort=relevance

 

There is more you can do with ferrite chokes, but the above is usually WHY there is a problem. For flashtube  strobes, the ferrite chokes are required on the feeds from the generator box. 

Edited July 29, 2022 by RFguy

[Blueadventures]

Thanks RF; will do that and check results.  Thanks also Gary and others for info.

 

I have sent an email to Steinair about their $55 USD item as it is a twin 2.4amp outlets (4.8 amps must be better than 3.1 a [1 = 2.4] and was intending to email Mendellsens as unsure of the specs of their $55AUD item (they mention modified car unit and it looks like the Jay Car unit and it may contain RF's mod.

 

For additional info; working to a budget when my $180 12 month plan sim in my ipad mini ran out early (not sure what I was doing wrong usage wise) and with purchasing an iphone 13 and data plan I now share internet access via personal hotspot which requires wifi on so this may add to the situation.

[Garfly]

22 minutes ago, Blueadventures said:

For additional info; working to a budget when my $180 12 month plan sim in my ipad mini ran out early (not sure what I was doing wrong usage wise) and with purchasing an iphone 13 and data plan I now share internet access via personal hotspot which requires wifi on so this may add to the situation.

 

Mike, does it need WiFi on?  Can you not share internet by Bluetooth/USB?

[Blueadventures]

1 hour ago, Garfly said:

 

Mike, does it need WiFi on?  Can you not share internet by Bluetooth/USB?

will share over Bluetooth.  I'll use that in future.

[Blueadventures]

2 hours ago, RFguy said:

most of the problems with noise relate to the power supply circuitry inside these not having small suitable input capacitors. reality - cheap design and mfr.  

They are for most people too hard to modify so its a matter of finding one that is radio quiet.

 

if you can pull it apart, solder in disc ceramic capacitors with 1/4" leads across the 0 and 5V of the USB sockets, (which is the OUTER pair of contacts)  and the 12V input on the PCB itself.

 

https://www.jaycar.com.au/10nf-50vdc-ceramic-capacitors-pack-of-2/p/RC5348?pos=2&queryId=e517493d3ef57325d5af7d045f0b4676&sort=relevance

 

There is more you can do with ferrite chokes, but the above is usually WHY there is a problem. For flashtube  strobes, the ferrite chokes are required on the feeds from the generator box. 

It will pull apart; when you have a chance, no urgency could you advise where to solder the disc ceramic cap; and if I use 2 one on each usb outlet.  Thanks

[RFguy]

so on the outer two pins of the USB connector, approx 1/4" leads no longer

that USB has a subboard- you'll need to get the cap wires across the USB pins .
and the input side- well that's easy, across the pair of spades

if you want to go to town a 10nF and a 100nF in parallel even better. 
https://www.jaycar.com.au/10nf-50vdc-ceramic-capacitors-pack-of-2/p/RC5348?pos=2&queryId=e517493d3ef57325d5af7d045f0b4676&sort=relevance
https://www.jaycar.com.au/100nf-50vdc-ceramic-capacitors-pack-of-2/p/RC5360?pos=3&queryId=644fcba3c794f9c5819969aec721cd51&sort=relevance

 

pics :
The input side caps go on those red circles.

you will see on the lower side the small dots on the USB connector PCB. there should be a better spot- that is to say the 5V will go up to the PCB, and it might be easier to put the caps on the main PCB, so (see the 2nd PCB) pic below
those two blocb  dots on the big cylindrical capacitor with the arrow, that is where you want to get the 5V output caps.... That part is leaded, so you'll be able to mount the caps on back OR front, just that on the back, the toroidal inductor might get in the way. I think the leads are right under the middle of the toroids hole ! you can move that toroidal inductor while you are soldering it in- dont worry about proximity , the inductor wont care about having a cap against it,

 

[Blueadventures]

9 minutes ago, RFguy said:

so on the outer two pins of the USB connector, approx 1/4" leads no longer

that USB has a subboard- you'll need to get the cap wires across the USB pins .
and the input side- well that's easy, across the pair of spades

if you want to go to town a 10nF and a 100nF in parallel even better. 
https://www.jaycar.com.au/10nf-50vdc-ceramic-capacitors-pack-of-2/p/RC5348?pos=2&queryId=e517493d3ef57325d5af7d045f0b4676&sort=relevance
https://www.jaycar.com.au/100nf-50vdc-ceramic-capacitors-pack-of-2/p/RC5360?pos=3&queryId=644fcba3c794f9c5819969aec721cd51&sort=relevance

 

pics :
The input side caps go on those red circles.

you will see on the lower side the small dots on the USB connector PCB. there should be a better spot- that is to say the 5V will go up to the PCB, and it might be easier to put the caps on the main PCB, so (see the 2nd PCB) pic below
those two blocb  dots on the big cylindrical capacitor with the arrow, that is where you want to get the 5V output caps.... That part is leaded, so you'll be able to mount the caps on back OR front, just that on the back, the toroidal inductor might get in the way. I think the leads are right under the middle of the toroids hole ! you can move that toroidal inductor while you are soldering it in- dont worry about proximity , the inductor wont care about having a cap against it,

 

Thanks for quick reply RF.  Do I solder a cer cap between the two large red circles, and solder another cer cap to the wires out of the red arrowed capacitor?

 

When you say to consider adding a 100 size cer cap in parallel do I just attach the wires at same places (both wires for each soldered at same spots?

 

Appreciate comments and your time as know you are busy with your JabRotax project and other things.

 

Cheers Mike