Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys

 

My CH650 kit arrived last week, what a job and a half getting it up my steep curved driveway up to the garage.

 

Luckily a few of my neighbours were home and come over to give me a hand!

 

At the moment I've unpacked the grate, made my bench and working on converting part of my outside storage shed into a spray booth. I've joined the SAAA, spoken to a few of the guys who have been very helpful.

 

I'm probably still a few weeks away from starting the build and trying to learn and ask as many people as I can on their thoughts of corrosion protection. What is everyone's opinion on the best type and why? Pro's and cons of different types. BUT !! before anyone starts I'd just like to rule out ANY of the to toxic/carcinogenic types please. {Not interested}

 

Cheers

 

rick

 

Screenshot_20180706-150031.png.7f2807fed61b3287a134db2af6be5aab.png

 

20180706_115743.jpg.73acf5bb755714fd445478b4ec820107.jpg

 

20180706_120951.jpg.bf6c35be7533c0d88e33921484d7a1d0.jpg

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Winner 3
Posted

I did quite a bit of research on aluminium corrosion protection as I used to own an aluminium fabrication business and the powder coating company I used chromated the aluminium prior to powder coating. This is a chemical conversion process and stops aluminium from oxidising and changes the colour to a goldish hue. It is very effective but highly toxic as is alodine which was used in the aircraft industry extensively.

 

I used a product called PreKote which is applied with a scotchbrite pad. It is non toxic and has a very pleasant aroma but you are advised to wear rubber gloves gloves when applying it. When it is applied it foams up just like a detergent. After application you must apply primer paint within 24 hours. After application the test to see if it has worked as there is no colour change is to pour water over the area and if it does not web, i.e. the water film clings to the surface uniformly it is ready for priming. I have attached the Prekote MSDS and application procedure pdf files.

 

I bought 1 US gallon which at the time (2014) cost around $90.00 & I still have more than a litre left.

 

prekote_msds_sds.pdf

 

prekote_aircraft_application_procedures.pdf

 

prekote_msds_sds.pdf

 

prekote_aircraft_application_procedures.pdf

 

prekote_msds_sds.pdf

prekote_aircraft_application_procedures.pdf

  • Informative 1
Posted
Hi guysMy CH650 kit arrived last week, what a job and a half getting it up my steep curved driveway up to the garage...

Great to hear, Nick. If it was a big job getting better a boxed kit up your driveway, how the hell are you gonna get a completed aeroplane out again?

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Posted
Great to hear, Nick. If it was a big job getting better a boxed kit up your driveway, how the hell are you gonna get a completed aeroplane out again?

Memories of Dennis's Savannah built in a third floor apartment in Sweden come to mind. Slinging it over the balcony will make this driveway look like a stroll in the park.

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
I did quite a bit of research on aluminium corrosion protection as I used to own an aluminium fabrication business and the powder coating company I used chromated the aluminium prior to powder coating. This is a chemical conversion process and stops aluminium from oxidising and changes the colour to a goldish hue. It is very effective but highly toxic as is alodine which was used in the aircraft industry extensively.I used a product called PreKote which is applied with a scotchbrite pad. It is non toxic and has a very pleasant aroma but you are advised to wear rubber gloves gloves when applying it. When it is applied it foams up just like a detergent. After application you must apply primer paint within 24 hours. After application the test to see if it has worked as there is no colour change is to pour water over the area and if it does not web, i.e. the water film clings to the surface uniformly it is ready for priming. I have attached the Prekote MSDS and application procedure pdf files.

 

I bought 1 US gallon which at the time (2014) cost around $90.00 & I still have more than a litre left.

Thanks for that , very informative. Will look at the products

Cheers

 

Rick

 

 

Posted
Often the build takes so long that by completion day the garage is due for demolition anyway.

 

And its out!!!

Dennis was very motivated!

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

I hope you have a great time building. Mine has just flown for the first time and it flys well.

 

Ian Ratcliffe

 

CH 650 XL-B

 

Brisbane

 

Australia

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
Hi guysMy CH650 kit arrived last week, what a job and a half getting it up my steep curved driveway up to the garage.

 

Luckily a few of my neighbours were home and come over to give me a hand!

 

At the moment I've unpacked the grate, made my bench and working on converting part of my outside storage shed into a spray booth. I've joined the SAAA, spoken to a few of the guys who have been very helpful.

 

I'm probably still a few weeks away from starting the build and trying to learn and ask as many people as I can on their thoughts of corrosion protection. What is everyone's opinion on the best type and why? Pro's and cons of different types. BUT !! before anyone starts I'd just like to rule out ANY of the to toxic/carcinogenic types please. {Not interested}

 

Cheers

 

rick

Well done Rick. I hope you will have many hours of enjoyable construction time 004_oh_yeah.gif.82b3078adb230b2d9519fd79c5873d7f.gif.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
Hi Narra, Use Cortec, Allan has it @ Bendigo. I used it on my up grade install, it was great.Jeff

I ended up getting my Cortec VCI-373 shipped from the USA because I was informed there was no dealer Downunder anywhere!

 

 

Posted
I hope you have a great time building. Mine has just flown for the first time and it flys well.Ian Ratcliffe

 

CH 650 XL-B

 

Brisbane

 

Australia

I was just wondering, Ian, under your avatar it says CH-601 but you wrote that you have a CH-650. Have you upgraded your aircraft?

 

 

Posted

It is a 601 but we have put the 650 canopy on it. So it is realy only a 601.

 

Ian Ratcliffe

 

Brisbane

 

Australia.

 

 

Posted

Hi guys

 

So I decided to use the Protec "etch pro 426 " It's an 1k epoxy etch primer. I've just finished building a spray booth in my outdoor shed, just installed the extraction fan today. Picked a small compressor yesterday. All I have to do now is chase up what they recommend to use as the thinner on the etch primer and I'm ready to go.

 

I have a tv and dvd hung on the wall ready to play the "homebuilthelp dvd's " as I build the thing. I've started on the rudder skeleton, just waiting now for all of the final bits for the spraying.

 

Cheers

 

Rick

 

 

Posted
Rick don't forget to prep the alloy with 50/50 Metho and water mix applied with scotchbrite before etch priming.Jeff

Is that the same as Prepsol?

 

 

Posted

Prepsol is a wax and grease remover, the metho (denatured alcohol) and water mix deoxidisers the aluminium surface so the etch primer can stick.

 

If you are painting only apply a very light mist covering of the etch primer then primer over the top.

 

 

Posted
Prepsol is a wax and grease remover, the metho (denatured alcohol) and water mix deoxidisers the aluminium surface so the etch primer can stick.If you are painting only apply a very light mist covering of the etch primer then primer over the top.

Thanks , I have the wax and grease remover . So scotchbrite with the wax and grease first then wipe down with the 1/2 1/2 mix?

cheers

 

 

Posted

Rick, to prime between two joining surfaces, just clean then prime.

 

If you are going to paint, then scotchbrite with 50/50 mix, then clean with straight metho, then final wipe over with the prepsol and then etch prime, then apply primer and then colour over the top. If you are going to do this it is best to paint wet on wet, it's more intense but it is a lot quicker and a lot less work.

 

Jeff

 

 

  • Helpful 1
Posted

So stuffed a bit already ! the top rib reinforcement, You would assume that the planes they sent out with a brand new kit would be the latest plans ? NO !!! on the plans you can see it is just the 65t4-2 top with cap, but that would mean I would have had 2 parts left over, found some other plans on the disk they gave and it shows the 2 parts and how they go on without 65t4-2 .

 

So proceeded to install it that way. WRONG ! I've been in contact with another fellow building on and he found the most up to date plans.

 

So now I've ordered 2 new parts!

 

Also started on the tail, WOW the matched pre drilled holes are a treat after doing the rudder which aren't matched holes. I think what I have done on the tail in 1 1/2hrs if not predrilled and matched would have taken a weekend and a bit ! What a time saver

 

Cheers

 

Rick

 

1802478147_20180801_180922(002).jpg.57f2317c13bb3f16cc3ea41ac4818704.jpg

 

20180801_180941.jpg.e8cad64d7c129b3f4013f18b787a6446.jpg

 

20180729_094217.jpg.ce0940ceb04305d8968c208b1fe602af.jpg

 

20180729_094223.jpg.61e5a379c34134574018e2daa3ad4d7c.jpg

 

20180729_140019.jpg.3ac5b97709fe0e0ba308a71d482f6664.jpg

 

20180801_171515.jpg.bad1aa4c7e999f79ba279dbd90715bcb.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I thought the Zenith STOL "super duty" was a good idea, with the 3rd seat.

 

There being a quick build option plus fully matched holed would make it quite a fast build!

 

 

 

  • Agree 1
Posted

Rick my rudder kit didn't come with 65t4-10. On mine the plastic top just went straight on the top. It's been ok for a year and a half so far.20160828_150014.jpg.c7a4333c0364a93cad9b782b580e4ac8.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Informative 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...