Anyone have an old 912 engine driven fuel pump?

[M61A1]

Just wondering if anyone has an old 912 fuel pump laying around. I don't want the pump, but am after the screw in inlet fitting with the hose tail on it.

 

Happy to pay reasonable price and shipping.

 

PM if you've got anything you want to part with.

 

 

[onetrack]

M16A1 - What's wrong with just using a standard brass threaded barbed tail, as fitted to virtually all other engine fuel systems?

 

Is there something special about the Rotax thread? I note it appears to have a parallel thread with a sealing washer, but these are normally fairly readily available.

 

 

[M61A1]

M16A1 - What's wrong with just using a standard brass threaded barbed tail, as fitted to virtually all other engine fuel systems?

 

Is there something special about the Rotax thread? I note it appears to have a parallel thread with a sealing washer, but these are normally fairly readily available.

 

Yes there is something special about the rotax thread. It's metric, not BSP and it seals using a copper washer under the flange. 

 

 

[onetrack]

EFI Solutions should have what you need. I presume the thread is 10mm x 1mm? Roger Lee has raised some useful points in the discussion below, about Rotax fuel hose, and barbed fittings.

 

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/fittings-hose/barb-fittings/

 

https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/rotax-forum/4-general-discussion/5793-fuel-line-912

 

 

[skippydiesel]

.............................................

 

https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/rotax-forum/4-general-discussion/5793-fuel-line-912

 

 

 

Some comments on Roger Lees advice:

 

I also use "Gates Barricade" BUT I use the fuel injected hose that he advises against WHY mainly for the slightly less permiability and hopefully higher temp/fire resistance. I find the higher rated hose remains pliable/flexible over its 5 year in service life. Gates is supplied through Repco and I find them willing to bargain - so price of the higher rated hose is not so much more than the carburettor quality.

 

"Do not use fuel injection hose. ..................when sliding it over a fitting it has no give and carries a much higher incident of scraping off the inner liner and causing debris. I do not agree with this advice  it makes little sense, I do not routinely remove/refit (except for 5 year replacement) which may cause some damage to inner wall,  is not my experience and I use a little silicone lubricant to assist in fitting all my rubber components.

 

"Use a very sharp knife like edge to cut the hose." Even better get a cheap hose cutter - you will make nice clean, 90 degree straight cuts, just where you need them, without the risk of cutting yourself.

 

"Use the proper clamps and not the garden hose serrated worm drive clamps. DO NOT over tighten your clamps"........................."It only needs to be snug enough to keep it from leaking and or sliding off." Could no agree more - use fuel injection hose clamps - purchase by the box, much cheaper. All my fuel, oil and smaller coolant hose clamps are the fuel injected type which give an even pressure all round without pinching. Unfortunately I have never found these clamps in 25 mm, to suite my radiator hose.

 

 

[onetrack]

Skippy, I find bolted clamps are excellent for radiator hoses where you need foolproof clamping ability.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tridon-Clamp-T-Bolt-Part-Stainless-25mm-Box-Of-10-TTBY23-25P/163199960134?epid=9004203201

 

 

[skippydiesel]

Thanks for that Onetrack - I am familiar with these excellent clamps (Tridon make a wide range)  - mainly in irrigation applications. The large ones are quit heavy - I will check into the small  25 mm size.

 

 

[facthunter]

They are pretty good but I don't like to use them in small sizes. Probably the spring ones used widely in auto application is good there. Nev

 

 

[Downunder]

Skippy, I find bolted clamps are excellent for radiator hoses where you need foolproof clamping ability.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tridon-Clamp-T-Bolt-Part-Stainless-25mm-Box-Of-10-TTBY23-25P/163199960134?epid=9004203201

 

I agree they are an excellent and secure clamp but I tried these and unless you have EXACTLY the right size clamp for your hose they are a pain.

 

They need to be loose enough to go over the hose with enough adjustment to tighten and then tighten again at service intervals.

 

I went back to worm drive clamps......

 

 

[facthunter]

The thin stainless ones adapt to the shape very well but avoid over tightening them or you will destroy the part where the thread runs in the strip of metal and they become unsafe. You would have to be a bit dumb and strong to do this, but I've seen it happen. They won't ever unscrew and should always be given a run over after a short time  to ensure they don't leak as it all settles in. Nev

 

 

[skippydiesel]

Have been looking into the T bolt hose clamps (there area few manufacturers). Couple of questions /observations you may like to comment on:

 

Having measured a section of radiator hose clamp I find that I require a clamp that will tighten down from an OD of about 36mm - T clamps appear to have only a small clamping range about 3mm or so.  What size have users gone for  (- 31-34 mm) ??

 

There are variations in T clamp design - Some T clamps have one or more hollow "nuts" others two solid "nuts". The solid ones are the most common but likely to be significantly heavier. What have you used & why??

 

Most suppliers seem to do at least 2-3 variants from plated to SS

 

"Norma" have the most interesting range of clamps in the genre.

 

"Tridon" do the traditional style.

 

"Pirtek" supply the hollow nut variety made by IHCT