question Coolant Advice "again"

[skippydiesel]

Ref: Rotax 912 ULS - As per Rotax recommendation, I have been using Castrol Radicool Concentrate (& its direct predecessor) for 10 years & 900+ hours - no problems everything as you would want.

 

In the interim I have a acquired a 2013 Ford Ranger PX, 3.2L - It has a very long life coolant installed by Ford. Recommend replacement coolant is Castrol Radicool SF-O. Because I am an obsessive personality it has always "bugged" me that I am not changing the coolant in my Ranger when I do a major service. The irritation has finally overwhelmed the advice from Ford (from memory 10 years service interval) and I am determined to change the coolant at the coming service. Unfortunately the coolant only comes in 20L containers & costs a "motsa". So in an effort to make the purchase more cost effective I am looking round for other applications - ROTAX 912 ??

 

Your advise on changing from Radicool Concentrate (green) with suitable flush to Radicool SF-O (red/pink) is eagerly awaited.

 

(I note that Airborne are now recommending "Nulon - Red Long Life Coolant, Nulon Part No. RLL20 or RLL5")

[turboplanner]

Ref: Rotax 912 ULS - As per Rotax recommendation, I have been using Castrol Radicool Concentrate (& its direct predecessor) for 10 years & 900+ hours - no problems everything as you would want.

 

In the interim I have a acquired a 2013 Ford Ranger PX, 3.2L - It has a very long life coolant installed by Ford. Recommend replacement coolant is Castrol Radicool SF-O. Because I am an obsessive personality it has always "bugged" me that I am not changing the coolant in my Ranger when I do a major service. The irritation has finally overwhelmed the advice from Ford (from memory 10 years service interval) and I am determined to change the coolant at the coming service. Unfortunately the coolant only comes in 20L containers & costs a "motsa". So in an effort to make the purchase more cost effective I am looking round for other applications - ROTAX 912 ??

 

Your advise on changing from Radicool Concentrate (green) with suitable flush to Radicool SF-O (red/pink) is eagerly awaited.

 

(I note that Airborne are now recommending "Nulon - Red Long Life Coolant, Nulon Part No. RLL20 or RLL5")

The coolant specified for your Ford Ranger is related to the testing experience of Ford based on the metals they used in the engine design nd is equally as important as the other component, water. Their tests would show the life cycle of the coolant so I would be precisely following their directions, and yes I have some spare containers.

 

Changing more frequently, while not gaining anything other than feel-good results is going to add a significant cost to whole of life maintenance.

 

On the other hand finding uses for your spare coolant in engines with other liner specifications etc, could well see you paying out thousands for reseleeving or a new block.

 

Believe it or not the manufacturers spend a lot of time hiring highly qualified people to prevent pin holes etc. and I've seen dozens of cases where customers have bought a $100,000 vehicle, had a mishap and decided they'd fill the radiator with water like they used to do on the old FC, or use up some anti freeze, and be white-faced in a meeting with the Service Manager as he totals up the cost for installing a new set of liners.

[facthunter]

The original coolant is tested at service time. See if you can get the test strips and extra added if needed and the life is easily ten years. If a gasket goes, all bets are off as the coolant is contaminated. I'd stick with the original coolant. Diesels are pretty fussy that way. Is it Orange coloured? Nev

[Bruce Tuncks]

I have wondered about coolants because the expensive ingredient is the glycol. Now if you were carrying warranties and the car owner could park it up in the snow, then you need lots of glycol there. But if you don't need antifreeze, surely you can use better and cheaper coolant? Water has the best specific heat figure, and I know that racing car coolants don't use glycol for this reason.

Alas, I am too chicken to use anything except the recommended coolant so I continue to pay for glycol which I don't need.

[onetrack]

The problem with modern engines, be they diesel or petrol, is the substantial array of alloys used in their construction, which are in contact with the coolant.

Once you start to mix multiple alloys with cast iron (and there can be 6 or 8 different styles of alloys in an engine, all with varying degrees of other metals in them as alloy-strengthening constituents), you get serious electrolysis and corrosion problems with those alloys, unless you use a coolant that is specifically designed to counter those electrolysis and corrosion problems.

 

In my 55 years of using a huge range of coolants in a wide range of engines (and putting up with all the related corrosion issues), I have found one rule that works best with coolant selection.

That rule is - use the coolant (or coolant additive mixed with rainwater), that is recommended by the engine manufacturer.

The manufacturers know precisely what the constituents of their various engine alloys are , and what is needed in the coolant ingredients to best protect those alloys.

 

There is only one coolant that I have found, that can be used in a multitude of mixed-alloy engines with successful results - and that is Toyota Long Life coolant.

Many aftermarket coolants or additives are little better than tap water - because even though they may contain ethylene glycol, they lack the specific additional additives designed to counter the alloy corrosion problem.

[skippydiesel]

I have expressed my question badly - I am asking your collective opinions on changing my Rotax 912 coolant, which is currently Castrol Radicool Concentrate (green) to Radicool SF-O (Red) the same as specified for my Ford Ranger.

Castrol Tech Adviser tells me that it should be okay (he wont knowingly comment on anything aviation) as long as the Rotax radiator is not copper (I assume no copper anywhere in the cooling system).

My only reason for contemplating the change, is to help justify the ordainment cost of the Ranger coolant ( 20 L concentrate @ $170) of which I will only use 5 L every 5 years or so.

 

 

I am surprised that no one commented on my observation that Airborne are now recommending "Nulon - Red Long Life Coolant, Nulon Part No. RLL20 or RLL5") - which could also be used in my Ford Ranger (if I give up on the Castrol secession.) Nulon was never on the Rotax coolant lists that I used to guide me in the past.

 

Turboplanner : The reason I am asking the question is because I do usually follow the manufacturers recommendations to the letter. Rotax used to list recommended coolant manufactures and types (one of which was Castrol Radicool Concentrate) - recent search couldn't find the list any more. However with my defective memory I believe that the Radicool SF-O more closely reflects Rotax recommendation, way back when but it was not greedily available in Australia at the time - hence the alternative/compromise Radicool Concentrate that was available.

As for service intervals - In non CV-19 times, I do quite a bit of heavy towing, so I generally follow the extreme service intervals which are usually about 1/2 the regular BUT I am an obsessive personality and it gets to me that I have not been changing the coolant - hence the emotional desire to do so and as you have observed at considerable extra cost (which I am trying to justify by proposing its use in my Rotax).

 

Nev : its starts red goes pink when at 50:50

 

Bruce ; Coolant contains a lot of anti corrosion, lubricant chemicals in addition to glycol - so its not just an ant freeze. Don't penny pinch on the use of quality coolant. I always go for the concentration because the mixing at 50:50, with a purified water, is then under my control & I know I have done it right.

 

One track : As to Toyota Long Life Coolant - it would appear to be recommended by at least one USA Rotax web sites. As far as I can tell it meets the same specifications as Radicool SF-O ASTM D3306, JIS K2234 (which mean nothing tom me)

[Blueadventures]

I have expressed my question badly - I am asking your collective opinions on changing my Rotax 912 coolant, which is currently Castrol Radicool Concentrate (green) to Radicool SF-O (Red) the same as specified for my Ford Ranger.

Castrol Tech Adviser tells me that it should be okay (he wont knowingly comment on anything aviation) as long as the Rotax radiator is not copper (I assume no copper anywhere in the cooling system).

My only reason for contemplating the change, is to help justify the ordainment cost of the Ranger coolant ( 20 L concentrate @ $170) of which I will only use 5 L every 5 years or so.

 

 

I am surprised that no one commented on my observation that Airborne are now recommending "Nulon - Red Long Life Coolant, Nulon Part No. RLL20 or RLL5") - which could also be used in my Ford Ranger (if I give up on the Castrol secession.) Nulon was never on the Rotax coolant lists that I used to guide me in the past.

 

Turboplanner : The reason I am asking the question is because I do usually follow the manufacturers recommendations to the letter. Rotax used to list recommended coolant manufactures and types (one of which was Castrol Radicool Concentrate) - recent search couldn't find the list any more. However with my defective memory I believe that the Radicool SF-O more closely reflects Rotax recommendation, way back when but it was not greedily available in Australia at the time - hence the alternative/compromise Radicool Concentrate that was available.

As for service intervals - In non CV-19 times, I do quite a bit of heavy towing, so I generally follow the extreme service intervals which are usually about 1/2 the regular BUT I am an obsessive personality and it gets to me that I have not been changing the coolant - hence the emotional desire to do so and as you have observed at considerable extra cost (which I am trying to justify by proposing its use in my Rotax).

 

Nev : its starts red goes pink when at 50:50

 

Bruce ; Coolant contains a lot of anti corrosion, lubricant chemicals in addition to glycol - so its not just an ant freeze. Don't penny pinch on the use of quality coolant. I always go for the concentration because the mixing at 50:50, with a purified water, is then under my control & I know I have done it right.

 

One track : As to Toyota Long Life Coolant - it would appear to be recommended by at least one USA Rotax web sites. As far as I can tell it meets the same specifications as Radicool SF-O ASTM D3306, JIS K2234 (which mean nothing tom me)

Do it IAW manufacture in 2023. And in the meantime try and go shares in a 20 litre drum with some Ford Ranger owners. A real good plan would be to trade to an Isuzu (I drive both and will be selling my 2012 Patrol to get an Isuzu in about July or early August). Cheers.

[turboplanner]

I have expressed my question badly - I am asking your collective opinions on changing my Rotax 912 coolant, which is currently Castrol Radicool Concentrate (green) to Radicool SF-O (Red) the same as specified for my Ford Ranger.

Castrol Tech Adviser tells me that it should be okay (he wont knowingly comment on anything aviation) as long as the Rotax radiator is not copper (I assume no copper anywhere in the cooling system).

My only reason for contemplating the change, is to help justify the ordainment cost of the Ranger coolant ( 20 L concentrate @ $170) of which I will only use 5 L every 5 years or so.

 

 

I am surprised that no one commented on my observation that Airborne are now recommending "Nulon - Red Long Life Coolant, Nulon Part No. RLL20 or RLL5") - which could also be used in my Ford Ranger (if I give up on the Castrol secession.) Nulon was never on the Rotax coolant lists that I used to guide me in the past.

 

Turboplanner : The reason I am asking the question is because I do usually follow the manufacturers recommendations to the letter. Rotax used to list recommended coolant manufactures and types (one of which was Castrol Radicool Concentrate) - recent search couldn't find the list any more. However with my defective memory I believe that the Radicool SF-O more closely reflects Rotax recommendation, way back when but it was not greedily available in Australia at the time - hence the alternative/compromise Radicool Concentrate that was available.

As for service intervals - In non CV-19 times, I do quite a bit of heavy towing, so I generally follow the extreme service intervals which are usually about 1/2 the regular BUT I am an obsessive personality and it gets to me that I have not been changing the coolant - hence the emotional desire to do so and as you have observed at considerable extra cost (which I am trying to justify by proposing its use in my Rotax).

 

Nev : its starts red goes pink when at 50:50

 

Bruce ; Coolant contains a lot of anti corrosion, lubricant chemicals in addition to glycol - so its not just an ant freeze. Don't penny pinch on the use of quality coolant. I always go for the concentration because the mixing at 50:50, with a purified water, is then under my control & I know I have done it right.

 

One track : As to Toyota Long Life Coolant - it would appear to be recommended by at least one USA Rotax web sites. As far as I can tell it meets the same specifications as Radicool SF-O ASTM D3306, JIS K2234 (which mean nothing tom me)

I was very specific and One Track was equally specific about the reason for matching the coolant to THE SPECIFIC ENGINE.

That's why those old lists of various coolants on the one engine have gone.

Coolant manufacturers may tell you their product will be OK, but they usually won't be in the room when the report for often a very new engine comes in that it has pin holes in a sleeve.

Engine designs have changed radically in recent years, so be aware.

[skippydiesel]

No offence Turboplanner BUT you may have noticed that coolant like oils are NOT specific to one engine/vehicle.

 

These days a range of specifications eg "ASTM D3306, JIS K2234" and approvals from several manufacturers eg "Meets & exceeds API SN/CF, ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1; ILSAC GF-4 Ford WSS-M2C913-C/WSS-M2C913-D. " is what you get. Your job (or your mechanics) is to decipher this code - not an easy task.

 

Further over time the names of products change (marketing) and sometimes the formulation as well - sometimes that product disappears all together and you must find a compatible alternative.

 

I know what is recommend for my Ranger - fairly easy to "do the right thing" BUT not so easy to get the definitive answer from Googling Rotax 912 coolant recommendations nor could I find any clear reference in the Rotax Operators Manual, Line Maintenance Manual or Heavy Maintenance Manual (perhaps its there and I just didn't find it - care to give me a heads up on this) - I feel (dont know for sure that is why the Q ??) that Radicool SF-O will be just fine in my 912.

 

I am fairly (that is sub 100%) sure that Radicool SF-O meets the same standards as Toyota Long Life Coolant (not referred to by Rotax at all) mentioned in at least two USA web sites as a suitable coolant for 912's .

 

I also feel that Nulon - Red Long Life Coolant, Nulon Part No. RLL20 or RLL5 as recommended by Airborne, meets the same standard as Radicool SF-O but again I am well out of my comfort zone so have asked you (all) for help.

 

I do not want to damage my engine (s) by trying to rationalise my coolant stocks, nor do I want to carry a wider range of stock than is absolutely necessary.

[Paul davenport]

Skip I cannot speak for other dealers but I know at my dealership if you wanted to buy 5 litres just bring in the container.

[Blueadventures]

Rotax prefered coolant is listed in the Service Instructions (SI 912-016)

You will find the listed Castrol products are no longer available. Floods advised the Radicool at not more than 50% radicool to 50 water is OK to use. Best check with them for current recommendations.

[Downunder]

Skip I cannot speak for other dealers but I know at my dealership if you wanted to buy 5 litres just bring in the container.

Yeah, I was going to say just buy what you need from the dealer....

[onetrack]

Skippy - There are two main groups in the coolant range - Red/Orange coolants, which utilise Organic Acid Technology (OAT) and the Green coolants, which are simply either propylene or ethylene glycol with basic corrosion inhibitor chemicals such as phosphates, borates, nitrites and silicates.

The Green coolant degrades fairly rapidly, because the phosphates, borates, nitrites and silicates form a coating on the cooling system components, and this means the chemicals are used up relatively rapidly. It is usually recommended to replace Green coolant every 2 to 3 years. Green coolants are suitable for cooling systems utilising copper-brass radiators - of which there are very few being fitted to current production vehicles.

 

There is also Blue coolant, which is OAT, but this coolant does not contain borates or silicates. Borate and silicate additives were found to cause cooling system problems in European countries with hard water, that contained minerals that reacted adversely with the borates and silicates. However, utilising rainwater or distilled water eliminates the "hard water" problem, and I don't know why the Europeans insisted on Borate and Silicate-free coolants.

 

The Red-Orange coolants are either hybrid OAT (still with some Silicates or Borates), or full OAT, and this is the technology that almost every manufacturer utilises today. The OAT contains carboxylates, which are neutralised carboxylic acids.

 

Carboxylates provide unsurpassed corrosion protection by interacting chemically with the metals they come into contact with, thus "neutralising" any corrosion reaction - rather than simply applying a surface coating, as the phosphates, borates and silicates do.

 

However, the Red-Orange full OAT coolants must not be used in systems with copper-brass radiators, as the Carboxylates react adversely with copper and brass.

 

One must avoid mixing different colours of coolant. Some red and green coolants react adversely with each other, this can cause jelling of the coolant. At best, you can seriously degrade the protection offered by your coolant by mixing colours.

Accordingly, one must flush the cooling system thoroughly with clean water (including running the engine with the clean water in it), to remove all traces of the old coolant.

Using a cooling system flushing chemical is advised, if there is any sign of corrosion buildup appearing.

 

Coolant needs to have a pH between 8 and 11 at all times to function effectively. A pH below 8 means copper or iron corrosion is happening, a pH above 11 means aluminium in the system is corroding.

You can get your coolant tested for pH, for glycol strength (refraction) and for corrosion inhibitor strength.

Glycol does break down with age and forms glycolic and formic acids, thus making the coolant acidic (low pH).

 

Re the liner corrosion problems (cavitation erosion) that Turboplanner mentioned - I do not see this as a problem with the Ranger 3.2L Duratorq engine, because this engine utilises dry liners.

Liner cavitation erosion IS a problem with wet liners, and particularly in heavy diesels, where the liners tend to vibrate and move much more than in light-duty engines, such as the Ranger 3.2L engine.

 

I see that the earlier models of the 3.2L PX Ranger (up to 2015) only take 10 litres in the cooling system - but the PX Rangers after 2015, take 13 litres in the cooling system.

I have no idea what changed in the design to increase the amount of coolant by that sizeable amount.

 

I know Ford did have some regular problems with the early Rangers developing coolant leaks in the EGR cooler, which was prone to splitting. A split EGR cooler often led to serious engine damage, such as overheating, head gasket failure, and even coolant entering the combustion chamber, leading to serious internal damage to the engine. Ford claimed they solved the problem by changing their EGR cooler supplier.

 

Other cooling problems with the Ranger are coolant hoses chafing and developing holes, through being improperly secured, and plastic hose fittings fracturing due to inadequate strength.

 

http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Ford&model=Ranger&gen=264

 

As far as using the same coolant in the Ranger and your Rotax, I see no basic problem with utilising a Long-Life, Red-Orange coolant with full OAT, in either engine.

The Red-Orange full OAT Long-Life coolants are recommended for maximum protection for all current engines, that utilise a mix of metals in their construction.

Edited May 12, 2020 by onetrack

[skippydiesel]

Rotax prefered coolant is listed in the Service Instructions (SI 912-016)

You will find the listed Castrol products are no longer available. Floods advised the Radicool at not more than 50% radicool to 50 water is OK to use. Best check with them for current recommendations.

 

Great ! BUT which Radicool ? there are several.

 

FYI the two Castrol products listed, have been superseded by Castrol Radicool Concentrate (green), readily available through any auto accessory that stocks Castrol products - I have been using this product for some years.

[skippydiesel]

Skippy - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- inadequate strength.

 

http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Ford&model=Ranger&gen=264

 

As far as using the same coolant in the Ranger and your Rotax, I see no basic problem with utilising a Long-Life, Red-Orange coolant with full OAT, in either engine.

The Red-Orange full OAT Long-Life coolants are recommended for maximum protection for all current engines, that utilise a mix of metals in their construction.

 

 

Terrific effort Onetrack - Very informative - Agree with about 98% - Not so sure that the colour of the coolant is as definitive as you suggest and can be a trap for the unwary. Castrol Tech informed me that the Radicool Concentrate (green) I have been using is a "hybrid" coolant. One little thing I have noticed - the Castrol Radicool SF-O (as supplied from Ford) looks very dilute(light pink) compared with other coolants - probably just the amount of colouring.

 

Just guessing about the increase in Ranger cooling capacity - this usually relates to the cooling of automatic transmissions - may not have been as effective as originally designed, particularly when towing large trailers. I drive the less popular 6 speed manual - great tug!

 

As far as hose chaffing - it also related to wiring harness - I have made an effort to secure/protect mine wherever there was a chance of abrasion.

 

As for the EGR - so far so good - long may it be so. I have considered modifying/deleting it but on balance decided to keep the engine stock.

[facthunter]

Try Pureau non ionised water with your concentrates Good value and reliable Tastes good too if you are going where the local water is suss. Rainwater may have quite a bit of "stuff" in it. Distilled is too dear . Allowing the concentration to go below recommended is advised against I'm sure you can buy the test strips.. Removes the guesswork. Penrite have just made a new coolant that is tolerant of some unknown residual coolant being still there. It's quite hard to get 100% of the old coolant out The older advice was "Never MIX coolants". .Nev

[skippydiesel]

Try Pureau non ionised water with your concentrates Good value and reliable Tastes good too if you are going where the local water is suss. Rainwater may have quite a bit of "stuff" in it. Distilled is too dear . Allowing the concentration to go below recommended is advised against I'm sure you can buy the test strips.. Removes the guesswork. Penrite have just made a new coolant that is tolerant of some unknown residual coolant being still there. It's quite hard to get 100% of the old coolant out The older advice was "Never MIX coolants". .Nev

 

Hi Nev; Some observations

 

• Any water that "tastes good" is probably not suitable for using as a coolant mix - reason the taste is likely to be from dissolved/suspended minerals. Pure water eg distilled, revers osmosis, etc has no taste - very boring.
  
• Rainwater, as long as it has no obvious contaminants (should be clear, no suspended material and if in doubt put through a domestic water filter), is a reasonable back stop, if you have no access to pure water. I agree it is not the best but is preferable to most tap & bottled waters.
  
• I cant say this with authority but it makes sense to me - if you dilute the coolant concentrate as per the engine manufactures recommendation (using a pure water) usually 50:50 and change the coolant at or before the coolant suppliers recommended interval any need for test strips/ refraction devises etc is moot.
  

 

As for residual coolant -

• First if you are draining/replacing the old coolant well within the manufacturers specified time (I like to do 2 years) there is no need to flush your cooling system - just refill with fresh coolant by adding concentrate first, followed by pure water.
  
• Flushing is only required if coolant type is being changed or old coolant is suspected of being well past its recommended service life.
  
• Drain what you can of the old coolant - if access to compressed air,you may be able to encourage a little more to exit by applying a little air pressure at the fill point - run tap water through your cooling system for a few short minutes (continue as long as there is discoloration/contaminants flowing out of the exit point - drain tap water (use air again) - with an aircraft you can also try tilting the fuselage to get the last drops out - flush with pure water x 3 times (most agricultural chemical companies advise this for cleaning spray equipment). Any residues will now be extremely hard to detect or non existent - add the required amount of coolant concentrate, then try to add he same volume/ measured amount of pure water (often you wont be able to get the last few mil in, dont worry your mix may be very slightly stronger than 50:50 but not critically so.
  

[skippydiesel]

FYI - B Flood advice on using Castrol Radicool SF-O "................. cannot see a problem with it, it seems to tick all the boxes, so try it at the usual 50/50 with demineralised water."

 

So it seems I will be moving to SF-O

[facthunter]

Skip "tastes good" compared to what you get along the way means no chlorine or dead birds/ frogs.. I did elaborate at length. Pureau is excellent for the purpose. Non ionic means no minerals, no ions no reactions possible. Nev

[turboplanner]

FYI - B Flood advice on using Castrol Radicool SF-O "................. cannot see a problem with it, it seems to tick all the boxes, so try it at the usual 50/50 with demineralised water."

So it seems I will be moving to SF-O

My earlier advice referred to information/requirements from Manufacturers, not Dealers.

It's the manufacturers engineets who know which metals have been placed where, and the reasons for specifying one maintenance product vs another.

If they specify a product for a specific engine there's a reason, otherwise they specify a Standard which multiple suppliers may or may not meet.

[Bruce Tuncks]

I always thought that BOILED rainwater was ok. The main contaminant in straight rainwater was CO2 and this in aqueous solution is acidic. Are there other shortcomings of rainwater?

Thanks for the good stuff on coolants skippy. Finally, I might get up the nerve to change my car coolants.

[skippydiesel]

My earlier advice referred to information/requirements from Manufacturers, not Dealers.

It's the manufacturers engineets who know which metals have been placed where, and the reasons for specifying one maintenance product vs another.

If they specify a product for a specific engine there's a reason, otherwise they specify a Standard which multiple suppliers may or may not meet.

 

Turbplannr - I have no argument with your position however with a 20 + year old engine it should be expected that, as formally recommend products change name, formulation or become unavailable, alternative products meeting or exceeding the manufactures specifications may need to be found.

 

In this case, a product (Castrol Radicool SF-O red) which I understand more closely meets Rotax recommendations (than Castrol Radicool Concentrate green) has become available on the Australian market - I was seeking the "Brains Trust" thoughts on this and, as I have written, also B Floods.

 

I now feel confident to change my Rotax 912 coolant type at the next major service PLUS for me is that its the same coolant that my Ford Ranger (x 2) and my sons motorbike use - so a win all round.

[skippydiesel]

.....................Pureau is excellent for the purpose. Non ionic means no minerals, no ions no reactions possible. Nev

 

What is it with this forum - you write stuff & loose most/all for no apparent reason ??

 

To respond (for the second time) to you Nev:

 

Never seen "non - ionic" used in this context. Previous experience with this term, relates to agricultural chemical spray application and the use of non-ionic wetting agents - meaning that they assist in preventing water repulsion something to do with +/_ charged ions.

 

Back to taste - Pure water had no flavour - all the flavoursome bits have been removed.

[skippydiesel]

I always thought that BOILED rainwater was ok. The main contaminant in straight rainwater was CO2 and this in aqueous solution is acidic. Are there other shortcomings of rainwater?

Thanks for the good stuff on coolants skippy. Finally, I might get up the nerve to change my car coolants.

 

Gday Bruce,

 

Boiling rainwater (recommend 20 minutes) does not remove contaminants, just renders them safe to ingest.

Acid rain (pH 5 or more) may be a problem down wind of any highly industrialised area. True the pH of rainwater has risen world wide, since the advent of the industrial revolution but most of Au will not have low pH rain water (pH 5.6).

In Au, other than rain water collected close to an acid source, I would doubt very much that the pH level would be of concern to your Rotax cooling system - particularly if you are changing the coolant every 2.5 years or so. The coolant should neutralise low level acidity.

I am not recommending rain water as a first choice - only if you have no access to pure water. Rather than boil it put it through a domestic filter (readily available). This will take out most organic material - the most likely containment of concern.

The safest water to add, is that which has been distilled, passed through a laboratory standard reverse osmosis system, or processed/de mineralised in some way to remove all/most minerals and dissolve/suspended contaminants.

Tap water should never be used, except as a short term solution in am emergency - having a coolant, is better than no coolant.

[Thruster88]

What is it with this forum - you write stuff & loose most/all for no apparent reason ??

 

To respond (for the second time) to you Nev:

 

Never seen "non - ionic" used in this context. Previous experience with this term, relates to agricultural chemical spray application and the use of non-ionic wetting agents - meaning that they assist in preventing water repulsion something to do with +/_ charged ions.

 

 

I am just a dumb farmer, a non-ionic surfactant is chemically inert, it is used when a reaction with the main chemicals would be undesirable.